DIY: Replacing the Bearings in the Idler & Tensioner Pulleys

@SpicyRedTaco11211983 You have a Gen3 and this thread is for Gen2. However, it appears your tensioner components are same as the 3.5 V6 in our 07 Lexus ES350. The measurements I got were 12X40X17 (width x OD x ID). By chance I found out that a Gates/ACDelco pulley # 36174 is a direct replacement. If I recall correctly, the Gates pulley is about 3mm narrower but it is holding up well. It has close to 100K.

These are the OEM parts I replaced with the 36174 pulley. I may still have them if you want me to take other measurements. Note: the ‘inner spindle’, I refer to as a reducer, it reduces 17mm ID to 12mm, or 10mm, I forget. It’s more important function is to center the pulley/bearing so it don't wobble in place.

 

I appreciate the help! I have a full assembly on the way from RockAuto, just needed to buy sometime until it came in. The bearings, when stacked, that came out were 25x40x17. I'll try to send pics when it's light out.

 

@SpicyRedTaco11211983 FYI, the bearing designation is 6203. The suffix will vary among the bearing manufacturer: SKF

$9 6203-2RS 17x40x12mm Deep Groove Ball Bearing Double Rubber Seal Bearings Pre-Lubricated 4 Pcs

6203-2RS; Nachi 6203-2NSE9-C3; NSK 6203-DDU-C3. I will repeat that the AC/

$42 Gates 36174 Idler Pulley

Gates 36174 pulley will drop right in.

But, yours in the 2020 is bad? I noticed a new part # for 2019+. It should be covered under the powertrain warranty.

 

@Chuy got the assembly in and swapped and you all were not lying. 2nd, 3rd gens, no matter, this sucked. Getting back to that third bolt in the alternator was awful, but I got. Thank you for your help. Keep the rubber side down!!!

 

ok 4 cyl?

 

@goodend https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2tr-fe-2-7-idler-pulleys.760102/

 

Found the following note on this youtube video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BjDYXMPNtoc

It mentions replacing the bearings originally as follows

This is a how to for replacing just the pulley bearings on the tensioner pulley on many Toyota and Lexus vehicles. The replacement bearings are part number

$9 6203-2rs 17x40x12mm Deep Groove Ball Bearing Double Rubber Seal Bearings Pre-Lubricated 4 Pcs

6203-2rs (the 2-rs is for "rubber sealed" on both sides so many different 6203 bearings will work) and I got them on Amazon for 14$ for a 10 pack so I would have extra if I messed up during install or for when they wear out again, just search "6203 bearings" and you will find them.


But as an update mentions that the complete tensioner pulley is available as the following part #'s.

900501A and can be found at Advanced Auto for 42$ Gates
36325 that can be found at Oreilly Auto or Amazon for 21$
FEBEST 0187-GSU45 on Amazon for 31$

Haven't actually needed or tried any of those but thought it might be worth it mentioning them if they are actually valid replacemnts

 

Could this be the actual part # for the not sold alone tensioner pulley

https://www.toyotapartsdirect.ca/a/Toyota__/47713805__5944640/Water-pump/163851-1601-674470.html

Part # 1660331050

 

@babylon5 Your info is for third gen Tacomas; this thread is 2nd gen. The tensioner pulleys are different. On my Lexus ES with the same 3.5 V6 as third gen’s, I found that Gates/ACDelco pulley # 36174 fits and works well. See post #141.

 

On Amazon.ca I compared the kit price to just (adding all the pulleys , belt ,add in 36174 tensioner pulley) and the difference was about $50 . So considering that the tensioner alone comes with the 36174 pulley and is $191 it seems like a good bargain to get the kit and just keep new tensioner as a spare.

 

I just bought the 90K-38411 from Rockauto for $212.99.

 

My bad i had currency set to CDN in rock Auto so all is good...

 

Hey guys, I posted this in the TRD supercharger forum but didn't get much feedback so I'm trying here as well. I have my truck disassembled to swap out the engine idler pulleys and noticed that my supercharge idlers are pretty sluggish too. Please take a look at the video and let me know if you think they are shot or if I'm just being overly cautious. Thanks much in advance!
https://youtu.be/gkMiqR4mAlw

 

Grab each pulley and try to wiggle it. If there is any side to side play, you may want to consider replacing it.

Too much free spin is another indication of a worn bearing. None of yours seemed to have too much spin.

How many miles are on them? Do any squeak under load?

If have any concerns, just replace them.

 

@charcharias It looks to me like they should spin more freely than that. As you spin each pulley, do you feel any grinding sensation? They should spin smoothly. When the grease dries out and/or particulate matter accumulates in the bearings, they don't spin as freely.

 

Probably posted somewhere else but looking at the pulley replacement diagram and the Gates pulley listing the gates pulley to replace the one on tensioner is 36174. This is the same part # that comes in the complete kit to replace what is referred to as the #1 idler pulley.

Based on that fact the #1 idler pulley on the toyota parts listing should also be the same as the tensioner pulley and looking at the picture it does indeed look indentical to all the pictures of removed tensioner pulleys.

So this must be the tensioner pulley also.
And this is indeed for 2nd gen. And even from the toyota parts website it says

Included with: Tensioner

So it would seem that the statement that the tensioner pulley isnt avaialble separately may not be correct




https://www.toyotapartsdirect.ca/p/...ve-Belt-Idler-Pulley/48437636/166030P030.html


Accessory Drive Belt Idler Pulley
Part Number: 166030P030


Pulley. Idler.
4.0 LITER. Accessory Drive Belt Idler Pulley. From 03/07. From 05/2016. From 10/2010. From 11/2008. Location-Between Comp and Crk. Location-Between Ps and Wp. To 10/2010. To 11/2008. To 11/2018. SUB - Assembly, IDL. Accessory Drive Belt. Serpentine. Tension. Included with: Tensioner.

 

Don’t know if this needs to be said but…..if you are changing the tensioner pulley, remember it is a left hand thread bolt holding that pulley on.
Please don’t ask why I know this. But I do know changing the whole tensioner assembly is an absolute pain in the ass.

 

it can be done with just unbolting and swinging both the Alternator and AC compressor out of the way and help up with wire.. but yes.. still a PITA.

 

Has been said but never any harm in repeating. I will just think of it in the same terms as the bolt that holds on lawn mower blades. I set my impact wrench to tighten to remove those