Oil Pan Change-up after cross threading the drain plug

This weekend I stripped the drain plug during a oil change (first time ever) and it was hard to get off when draining initially. At first I attempted to retreat with a oversize plug but it didn't work. I ended up buying a Dorman oil pan, removed and cleaned the aluminum bottom. I placed a good size layer of silicone, also around each screw hole as even as possible. Then I installed the new pan. Of course I started each screw by hand then torque down. The silicone was seeping out the sides and the screw holes which is a great thing.
I'm going to let it cure overnight then around 2pm tomorrow, im gonna place the oil in the engine.

 

^Good job. What sealant did you use?

Is the included drain plug a 14mm head? If not, Dorman also sells an OE-sized drain plug, P/N 090049.1: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3270459&jsn=267

 

I used the Permatex high heat sealant for engines and transmissions.
Correct, the drain plug is a 14mm

 

Oil is back in, driven twice and so far so good.

 

Time-sert has a tool kit for these scenarios. It's essentially a helicoil but instead of a spring-like thread insert, it's a solid steel threaded insert. Made in USA, very high quality, much better than helicoil. I've had excellent results with them. Probably takes the same amount of time as replacing the pan but it's another option, probably less messy too. Sorry I didn't see this post sooner or I would have shared!

 

Toyota recommends time serts for the Head bolt repair on the RAV4 engines.

 

Put a Fumoto Valve in next time you change the oil. It’ll never happen again…

 

in the kindest way possible that is the shittiest silicone application job I have ever seen in my life

knock on wood pray to the Lord hopefully it doesnt clog the pickup.

 

I'm gonna look into this

 

Or a ValvoMax.

 

I put just enough so that a small bead seep out on all sides including the screw holes. I am aware of not putting too much that it would get into the oil pan area. That's just the residue that I rubbed off from the edge. It looks worse that it is.

 

Good work man.
At least you fixed it yourself.

The only thing I will add is, focus more on the inside edges of the bolt holes next time.
Oil has to get passed the inside edge before it can get to the outside edge.
You actually don’t need to go all the way around the holes. I do, just because it makes me feel better. I also would rather use a little too much, than not enough.
But not “too much”.

I say, if it’s not leaking, good job.

 

Myself I tend to just run a light layer inside the bolt holes.

It would take most of a tube cured to impact the pick up tube. The interesting things far worse I found in oil pans over the years.

As long as it seals your good to go!

 

I used one of these on my motorcycle - worked great. That said, I’d have to do some research before doing it on a sheetmetal oil pan. I remember something about repeated cycles of in/out with the drain bolt loosening them over time.

 

Definitely appreciate everyone advice. Yeah I see the arrows could've gotten a thicker application. I'll continue to monitor for the next few days though.

 

Nice job. You should be fine…

 

I've had a fumuto valve for thousands of miles and it makes oil changes much cleaner and easier. The only downside is that the oil takes longer to drain, but not a big deal since you can do other stuff while it drains.

 

Like changing the oil filter and greasing the U-joints.

 

I'll have to disagree with you on that one. It takes a bit more time than 5 minutes to drain the pan through a Fumoto. I guess if you're not worried about mixing a lot of old and new oil in your system then I guess but it takes me about 30 minutes until I'm satisfied that the majority of the old oil has drained. After about 30 minutes its about 1 drip every 30ish seconds and that's with the fill port cracked so I know it's not being held up by a lack of air exchange. I do save the 5 minutes that it would take me to gather tools however. My process is crack the top, position the pan then open the valve to let it drain. While it's draining, I'll position a tube in the catch pan for the filter and replace the filter. Finally, I grab the grease gun and hit all the zerks. All in all, it takes about 30 minutes or so to do all that which gives me enough time clean up after the grease and put everything away before buttoning up the valve and refilling the system. Bottom line, is it faster? No. Is it easier? Absolutely. Completely tool free oil changes are magnificent.

-J

 

I'll mix the few milliliters of oil to save 25 minutes but I also use the valvomax and drain it directly into a container so there's no cleanup. Also have the fram plug for the oil filter housing glued to a Powerade bottle. Just screw in the bottle, drips right into it, unscrew it when done and dump it in the jug at the end. 5 minutes is accurate for me.