Quick opinions on coolant system sediment

Currently doing a timing belt for my 5vz and now that I have the radiator apart I’m seeing some sediment/buildup in the system. In your opinion is this potentially rust forming leading to the trans fluid mixing? Currently trans fluid is clean and still looks awesome as this vehicle only has around 100k on the trans fluid from a rebuild. All these photos posted are of course the cap and then the upper rad hose, bottom hose and bottom of the rad are clean with not much sediment settling at time of removal. Would prefer to not get a radiator but just wondering what y’all say. Thanks in advanced.

 

What's done is done.

If you opt not to replace the radiator (not even sure if you need to really),

Perhaps now is a good time to replace the radiator hoses, radiator cap and do a coolant flush/change. If you don't have one already, highly recommend.

$34 Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel, Standard Adapters, 11 x 7 x 7"es

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A6AS6LY

Local parts store should have them too.

Also a lot of people skip this so I'm mentioning it, make sure you fill the overflow bottle to full.

Could always flush a couple of times with distilled water before replacing the coolant.

Cheers.

 

Thanks! I’m doing the full timing service “the right way” all timing parts, tensioner, new hoses, water pump, pulleys, accessory belts, etc. I have coolant and distilled water to do a flush when I’m done even if I really should have flushed it first. Maybe I’ll pick up a new rad cap when I’m done if I can’t clean it up.

 

SInce you're doing it right, get a new OEM cap. No shortcuts

 

I've seen some that that looked sort of like that after using GM cooling system tabs to bandaid a head gasket problem .

 

Cooling system tabs? Would a bandaid fix allow it to pass a leak down test that would otherwise fail with out the tabs? I compression and leak down tested cylinders and pressure tested from the rad cap during pre-purchase of this truck.

edit: this is the strongest 5vz I’ve ever driven as in it pulls the hardest and seems to have the most power left after 26 years.

 

It sounds like you're good to go, I would flush it and move on

 

Heads up. If you don't plan to use OE rad hoses(expensive), I found the gates hoses to not fit well so I had to pony up for the OE anyways. The only brand that I saw that had the correct bend was Continental but what's done is done. The next time I'm doing the rad I'm sure the truck is already driven into the ground so it's not a concern anymore.