New UCA’s or no?

I installed Bilstein 5100s all the way around on my 2022 TRD Off Road. Fronts are set on the #3 groove which should be about a 1 inch lift (1.1 inches according to the instructions). Took it to the alignment shop twice because I continue to feel tramlining at speeds over 60mph. After doing some research I have learned that these trucks handle better with about 3.5 to 4.5 caster numbers. After the last alignment the caster is set at 2 and 2.4. Spoke with someone at JBA about new upper control arms. Very helpful by the way! But $700 is a lot to spend. If it is the only way to solve the issue, I guess it’s worth it. However, does anyone have an idea on how much caster I can get from the stock UCA’s with a 1 inch lift in the front? I just don’t think i should need expensive uppers with only a 1 inch lift. Also, not sure why the alignment shop didn’t know about the caster angles for this truck.

 

A good alignment shop can adjust the caster in the eccentrics to straighten you out. If they're just adjusting toe they're never going to get your truck tracking properly straight.

The JBA's add +3 deg caster, which will get you the caster you're after but proper adjustment with your stock arms should get you fixed up. The caster should be equal on both sides.

 

The alignment shop (Les Schwab) told me that the numbers are different to compensate for the weight of the driver. I don’t know a lot about alignments (learning a lot now!) so I just went with it. Might need to find a 4x4 specialty shop that does alignments.

 

Definitely worth it if you want the issue fixed. Most places that don't specialize in Toyota trucks or high end alignments don't know how to properly do them. According to my alignment shop they are one of the more difficult setups to do, but the drift won't be fixed until the caster is dialed in.

 

2, 2.4 is plenty. I'm at 2.2 with 2" lift drives great. You want cast set same bothsides. You.ight be able to squeeze a bit more. What is you camber and toe set at. Post alignment sheet.

 

I’m at bottom clip with OME 885’s on stock UCA’s no issues and no shit shitty tire wear. But as other mentioned there’s a lot of factors at play, but I recommend for you to talk to a shop that specializes in trucks with modified suspensions. And yeah if you talk to the companies they’re going to try to sell their product. Cheers!

 

Here is the spec sheet from the most recent alignment.

 

Get the numbers to match right and left at that 2.4 or close to it, same with toe.

 

Need more camber.

If equal you may have some drift on a well crowned road, so a 'little' variation for that won't hurt, but you can get a lot more out of the OE UCAs.

Ballasting (weight of the driver) is something for autocross or road course vehicles. And they can't 'guess', you have to weight the seat to make the suspension move as if loaded. Plus it's camber and toe that you car about in those performance situations, thus the ballast.

The only time to use a big box shop for alignments is if you are confident in some manner that the tech doing the work 1) knows what he is doing 2) cares enough to to it right 3) and the shop has their equipment calibrated on a regular basis.

Of course those items are true in a smaller shop too. But the odd are higher you'll find them there.

There is nothing magic about a 4x4 shop doing alignments on Tacoma's, as they have simple suspensions.

Find a shop that does sports cars for enthusiasts, or your local auto-x crowd uses and give them a try.

Side note. So many want to be 'level' and even side to side, etc etc. Yet when a performance car is corner weighted while adjusting ride hts etc you may wind up with 4 different measurements. So the set up matters more than the look.