2008 Tacoma Front Wheel Bearings Replacement

I've had a noticeable vibration lately at about the 30 MPH mark, when I'm turning left the vibration increases. When driving straight or turning to the right I do not hear the vibration. I jacked my truck up and put it on jack stand and shook both wheels from front to back (pushing on the outside front, then the outside back) and found that there was play on both wheels. I have not examined play from top to bottom or spun both front wheels but will do so after posting. From this video the replacement process does not seem difficult and surely one I would be able to complete confidently. Tie rods were replaced last fall so I know they are good.

So my question for the community is this part enough to fix the issue?

 

That will work.
For how long? I don’t know.
As they don’t say what brand bearings they use.

They should last at least 30k miles.
Better ones that use Koyo or SKF should go closer to 100k.

 

Guy on here sells the full wheel bearing assemblies using high quality parts. I've purchased them from him and are currently running them on my truck. They are quite a bit more expensive than your RockAuto part but he does use high quality parts. I'll get the username of the guy.

Edit: @05Taco4x4

 

I highly recommend @05Taco4x4
Top Quality. He’s built hundreds of sets.
He knows his stuff

 

I just replaced my splash shields to install bigger calipers and rotors, had to remove and reinstall the bearing assemblies to do it. I marked the 35mm nut with a paint marker before removing them, then tightened the nut until the paint marks lined up (I had forgot to bring my 1/2” torque wrench from work). It seems to have worked perfectly. Next time I will remember the torque wrench.

 

I'd echo to go with quality bearings pressed by someone like @05Taco4x4. I don't know what if any relation SKP has with Dorman (aside from generally using their part numbering scheme) but man, Dorman's quality is bad enough already, I shudder to think what their off-brand competition is like.

Or if you want easy, SKF finally sells complete hubs, BR930978. Only took them, what, 17 years, and like 5-6 years after Dorman launched theirs?

 

I did just bearings never again it was a a pain! Buy the entire assembly. Original failed at 56K (noise) the one on the other side is original at 130+ K.

 

I'm having the local shop look at it today for guidance. Hopefully I can get away with ordering just the bearing module and the wheel seal. That would be SO much cheaper!

 

The whole hub assembly is cheaper.
Unless, and only unless, you have a press, a jig, and the know how to do just the bearings.


Personally, I like the idea of all new.
Even the lug studs are new on a hub assembly.

 

Well I lucked out! Turns out the tires on the front were cupped. They rotated to even out the wear. Already sounds noticeably better.

 

Now, what caused them to cup?

 

Excellent question to which I do not have the answer.

 

If it was both tires on the front, I’d be looking at suspension components. @Bishop84 deals with this stiff every day. I’m not a suspension or tire guy. But something caused the tires to cup.

 

Good time to have it aligned and front tires to back

 

I have see people forget to put the bolts in before pressing the hub on! Buy the whole damn thing much easier.

 

I just changed my passenger 2wd hub today with the SKF from the Rock Auto. $128.00 shipped to my door. Looks beautiful all new and shiny! Took less than an hour and I was not hurrying. I will never waste the time and money to press hubs again.