1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

It it isn't accurate then your entire ignition table is skewed by as many degrees as it is off.

 

A wise precaution. We've seen enough incorrect settings in that basemap.

 

For TDC offset angle verification I was going to do this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2yoxiKJ1KzY

I bought a timing light off Amazon for ~$30. (

$25 Automotive Timing Light 12V, Inductive Ignition Timing Light Gun for 2&4 Stroke Petrol Engine for Old Classical Car Motorcycle

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07THTFKTZ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details)

I talked to my buddy at work (to turn the key), so hopefully I won't have to talk to my neighbor.

 

Going to try an experiment in a couple days once I can pull the gauge cluster and finally tap the P/N wire: Timing retard to assist in braking

 

Just don't overheat your manifolds haha

 

What? No antilag?
Naw with 10deg I should still be in the positives BTDC in all relevant cells unless I start driving with 2 pedals

 

How does that change the braking characteristics when you're in decel?

 

Really just RPMs below decel. It's mainly coming up because my cold idle RPM produces enough torque that it wants to send me through intersections

 

oh i gotcha, it's for steady state

I have a clutch for that haha

 

Ya was gonna say, the TC makes it a little less effective than a manual would be

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WbNiSF3kA0E

Thanks guys!

 

Good job dude!

 

What exhaust you got on there? I need something mellower

 

The exhaust cut-out was open.
Exhaust: CX Racing Turbo Manifold & Downpipe, 3" Magnaflow Hi-flow Catalytic Converter, Granatelli 4" Exhaust Cut-Out, Magnaflow 2.5" 11246 & 12646

You can see my exhaust here (before Haltech), I close the cut-out at the end of the video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=81VANZx6rEY

 

Brought my fuel prime pulses wayyy down for my current cold start temps. Starts like a champ now

 

Wow that sounds mad

 

Anyone got advice for depinning the Toyota ECU connectors?
Theres a tiny hole below each pin on the male side of the connector that I tried putting a needle into, but wasn't able to get the pins to move at all.

 

Why depin the Toyota? Just move the pins on the Haltech side, it's tool less.

 

x2 on why? I've always done an old fashioned solder wrap tap

 

I wanted to swap the location of the AC1 wire (which isn't connected to the HT currently) with another unused wire that's connected to the HT. That way I wouldn't have to tap into anything.
Was mostly just something I wanted to try as a temporary fix until my pins show up. But I couldn't figure out how to depin it