Oil in AC refrigerant

I am planning on replacing a defective AC compressor on my 2018 Tacome. As a side note, the compressor failed after only 43,000 miles on the odometer.... Toyota quoted me $3,800 for the repair without verifying which part of all the AC system components failed. I was able to determine that the problem is a frozen compressor. The solenoid-clutch is functioning fine and the pulley turns freely.

Anyway, my new compressor came with oil in the compressor. According to the compressor supplier, there is "about 5 oz of PAG100 oil" in the compressor. I was curious what Toyota specifies regarding oil type and amount of oil. However, the little sticker under the hood addresses only the type PS-D1 but not the required amount. I also checked the manual but there is nothing mentioned regarding the oil volume in the refrigerant.

As to the oil type, it is my understanding that the PAG100 oil is identical with PS-D1 oil.

But what about the amount of oil required, would you know?

Thanks

 

PAG 100 is the same a PAG 46 or ND8, it's just a thicker viscosity.
As for how much, the compressor comes with a full charge of oil (what the entire system is supposed to have). When you remove the old compressor you are supposed to drain the old oil out into a graduated container and measure the amount. Then you drain the new compressor and add the same amount back that you drained from the old compressor. I usually add an extra half an ounce extra back into the new compressor.

 

Thanks Rusti for your prompt response and instruction.
So does this assume that after the AC system has been resting for a while that all the oil in the system has drained down into the compressor? Or is there some residual oil in other parts of the system that should be accounted for?

 

No, it doesn't drain back in...... once the compressor is run the oil is spread throughout the system. Each component retains some of the oil, so if you replaced a condenser or evaporator you'd need to add some oil. This is also why you measure the oil from the old compressor.

 

Great, thank you Rusti. I'll give it a try.

Still have to shop around for the least expensive R1234yf refrigerant.

 

Ya I don't know what prices are like by you but at the shop I work at 1234yf is like 100$ a pound but also I recommend changing the compressor as close to your appointment as possible because the less time the system remains with air in it the better. Don't forget to take a quick peep for debris in the lines from the compressor and possibly even change the receiver-drier/accumulator.. which ever these trucks have, as thats usually also the filter for the system

 

Thanks Joba

Good information. I will follow your advice. Thanks

 

Rusti, regarding your reply about the oil distribution inside the AC system, may I ask you whether the following assumption is correct?:

Assumption: "If only the compressor needs to be replaced and the whole AC system has been emptied and vacuumed for an hour, the defective compressor removed and the manufacturer of the new compressor assured me that the compressor was sent out with oil added (about 5oz so they said) is this all the oil that is needed for lubrication of the entire AC system?"

 

Not directly related, But if the old pump fragged/ froze up, there is likely debris spread throughout the system.

Many pump guarantees are only good with proof that the condenser coil and accumulator were replaced along with the pump, AND an additional filter is added to protect the pump.

BTDT got a few bum compressors sent to metal heaven.

The very best way is to do the install, but don't plug in the compressor clutch.
Drive to a trusted AC shop, have them pull all the old fluid out, Vacuum and N2 purge, then refill the entire system with "freon" and oil as OEM specified.

 

In regard to the compressor question, you have to balance the oil in the new one. Basically remove the compressor, drain and measure the oil removed then do the same to the new one and only put in the new compressor the same amount of oil you removed from the old one.
As mentioned check the lines for debris, if the compressor failed there is the possibility of it sending shrapnel into the system which will either cause a blockage and/or ruin the new compressor along with voiding it's warranty

 

Thank you guys again for your prompt and detailed advices. I have plenty to think about now, including whether it was a smart thing to simply buy a new compressor after finding out that the original compressor froze up. Of course I shied away from letting the Toyota dealer to move forward with $3,800 repair....

Thanks again to you all.