Auxiliary lighting wiring

I've searched and found a few mentions, but not much for specifics.

I've installed horn, LED light bar and will be doing rear lights soon. I'm running fused Hella relays.

The horn is easy enough, I tapped into the original horn plug behind the grill for the trigger.

I'd like to tie the light bar into the high beam, with a switch in the dash to disable.

The rear lights I'd like to tie into key in run position, so they can be used anytime I'm driving.

The switches' back lights should come on with headlight switch in on position

MODs, if this should be in lighting, my apologies and please move

For past vehicles I've just tapped into whatever wire I could find in the dash that was what I needed, but I don’t like those blue 3m connectors, they tend to cut strands in the wire.

I checked the fuse box under the hood and the high beam appears to be grounded.

Where have you guys tapped into dash lights, high beam and key on?

 

Dash lights can be tapped from the fuse block in the cab, TAIL 10A. Use an add-a-fuse so you don't have to use the vampire clips. I have my switches lit off that. Only downside is it doesn't dim. If you want it to dim you need to tap from the climate controls like said above. When you find the high beam control signal, just add a second circuit that grounds the relay or interrupts the relay power when you switch it on to disable the light bar. What kind of horns did you install? Most need 12v from the battery to get full power. I don't think our horns get 12v, so you would use the horn wire to signal the relay and add another circuit to power the horns.

 

Oh yea, key on can be tapped from the fuse IGN 15A in the cab.

 

PSU, how did you tap it?

The horns are Hella Supertones. I ran a relay for those and grabbed the trigger from the plug at the original horns. 12 ga wire running from battery, they're loud!

Vampire Clips, LOL. I've never had a problem with em, but just don't like the idea.

I found out the remote start guys put the controller right in front of the cab fuse block, geez.

What's up with the grounded fuse for the headlights under the hood? Is that the whole Toyota negative switched circuit stuff? I was hoping to add a fuse and trigger the relay from there.

 

What would the sPOD get me? I've got the relays in there (see pic above) and OEM style switches for the dash. Just trying figure the best way to trigger the relay tied to the high beams.

 

RICO, sweet! exactly what I was looking for. That's what the wiring diagram for the switch with a neg switched vehicle says.

They have 2 differences though. Pins 30 and 87 are reversed (does it matter on the high side of the relay?).

They also have a 1A diode between 85 and the switch (double backlit switch). Would I need that?

Thanks for the help! I've got the POS switched stuff down, but for some reason the NEG switched has me all cornfused.

 

Back to this. Never added the diode. Light bar only works w/ low beam. It goes off when I put it on HB. Want it tied to HB. Someone posted a wiring diagram

Current

86 12V+ trigger from dash switch
87 to LED bar +
85 12V+ battery
30 Add a circuit to LH HB fuse underhood

diagram had a diode on 30 which I was told I didn't need

Help

 

What horn?

scotchlok taps or whatever they’re called isn’t the only way

Look at NSPA Krimpaseal type butt connectors. They’re adhesive lined. Heat shrink. And also come in step down sizes to connect 2 wires on one side (provided they fit) to 1 out the other side.

 

Here's the wiring diagram for the headlights.

If your using a relay to control the aux lights and want them on with the high beams this is how I would wire it.



Or

 

This is how I plan on wiring my lights when I get around to building the fuse panel.


Switches are from OTRATTW with respective part numbers. SPDT (On,Off,On). I've since added a second light bar so I'll need to modify this slightly (like just adding a 3rd switch on a stand alone circuit). So when the switches are toggled to the up position, the lights will illuminate when the respective system is illuminated. In this example, my light bar and driving lights will illuminate when I toggle my high beams on and off when I switch the high beams off. In the lower position, they will always be on. Additionally, the upper LED in the switch will illuminate when the instrument lights are illuminated and the lower LED will illuminate when the switch is toggled into the 'Always On' position. 12v IGN would pull from the add-a-fuse off the 15A IGN fuse in the cab. The dash light tap comes from any switch pigtail with the green/white wire using a wire tap or de-pinning and splicing. High Beam and Reverse light taps come from their respective switch wires in the cab. Lastly, the power handling wires stay in the engine bay. This configuration sends only 2 low voltage wires through the firewall, only the two trigger wires for the relays pass through.

-J

 

Taco, someone asked about horns (use a relay for them)

DM, thanks! I'll try moving some wires around.

Will my existing setup work if I can just find a 12V+ HB for 30?