MunkeyWrench's 2nd Gen LS swap

tacotunner06 has LS swapped his truck and kept 4wd but struggled to find an oil pan that would clear the front clam shell, so he built is own which is awesome! Did you have any issues with the steering shaft and the side of the headers/exhaust?

 

I can see the oil pan being an issue if you're using the stock truck pan. I did have issues clearing the steering shaft and exhaust. I had to make a new steering shaft to clear the headers. The exhaust flanges were also hitting the frame so I went with v bands and had about 1/2'' of clearance. I had to shorten the header runners on the pass side also, they were hitting the frame as well.

I have seen a few 2nd gen Tacoma swaps and there are people getting away with using the stock steering shaft and stock exhaust manifolds. It all depends on how your position the engine into your truck. If you set it all the way back as far as you can to the firewall you will get away the stock stuff. My engine was positioned about 5" from the firewall. I did this to keep the stock trans cross member and was also able to use the stock Toyota driveshaft.

 

Interesting. What modifications did you do to the steering? I'm not too sure if I would be looking to keep things stock or commit to the custom driveshafts. And then you ran the Tacoma cooling system as well?
Pardon the 21 questions I'm trying to gauge what I will be needing prepping ahead of time for a "smooth install and conversion".

 

Cam,
It’s none of my damn business but I have been pondering a LS swap for a long time. There’s absolutely no way I’m using an automatic. I been waiting & wanting to swap in an LS or LT engine in our little 07 5 lug regular cab w/ 33k miles. So about two weeks ago I found the transmission I’ve been looking for. It’s a New Old Stock Tremec TKO 5 speed. So right after that I got really serious about finding an engine. I then found a LS 5.3 aluminum block L33 w/ 171k miles. So without knowing the maintenance history I’m paying someone who does nothing but build LS & newer LT engines. I’m having him refresh the engine, check the main, rod and cam bearings, replace if needed, check pistons, replaced rings, upgrade the cam to a BTR Truck Norris cam. Replace valve seals, springs, push rods, trunnions & or rockers, new chain kit, LS7 lifters w/ trays, fix the oiling issues, new or used pan plus all gaskets & seals. Purchasing new clutch kit, steel flywheel and new aluminum bell housing. After I get these things done I’m loading the engine, trans, TrueTrac and mis. parts in the bed and driving it all to El Centro Cali. I found a gentleman that makes a living doing swaps. I’m guessing the swap is going to cost $20 to $25k or more. The reason I’m paying others to do the majority of the work is because I don’t have the proper tools, I’m lacking in some of the skills & abilities. I’ve learned the hard way, sometimes it’s cheaper to pay others with the knowledge. Our 07 2TR-FE engine with only 33 to 34k miles w/ maintenance records is worth at least $5k. (It’s already spoken for) Check out the prices these engines are selling for on FleBay. I will also be selling the 2TR-FE Magnuson supercharger (in the video, the tuner’s son made, my 15 seconds of fame) & R155 trans. Please enlarge and tab on the volume icon in the lower right.
Should be fun with 400HP in a 3200 lbs truck.
to do this

 

Sounds like quite the swap! I'm looking to throw an auto in the truck ( currently has the auto in the Taco) as I like it for slow-speed crawling and mostly because it's easy to drive. My daily is a stick and that's fun to rip about in it as well.

For me, I would be doing preventative maintenance before putting it into the truck. When lack of power becomes a thing then I would look into some of these upgrades like you mentioned.
I'll be doing all the work myself with maybe the exception of the modifications to the oil sump to clear the front diff. Never done an engine conversion before but if you make it all bite-sized tasks it won't be too bad.

 

I had to add a u joint and make it about 3" longer to make it run right on top of the header and down to the steering rack. The stock Tacoma cooling is on the opposite sides of the LS inlet and outlet so you cannot use it. I ran the stock GM cooling for about 2 years then went with a 3 row aluminum radiator and a trans cooler.

 

Yea I noticed that the inlet and outlet coolant lines are opposite. What GM radiator did you run?

 

That’s a good question because I purchased this drop in radiator. Is it going to work?

https://www.mishimoto.com/aluminum-radiator-toyota-tacoma-2005-2015.html

 

I used a stock 2001 Silverado 1500 radiator. In order to run this radiator you would also need the expansion tank since the radiator does not have a fill cap.

 

@munkeywrench sir,
The LS has 3 different serpentine belt distances from the block. The truck setup is the closest to the the radiator, then some Camaro have the next distance away from the radiator and then the Corvette setup is the CLOSEST to the block. I think I remembered you saying you set your block as close to the fire wall as you could get it. My I ask what belt distance are you using?

Thanks in advance for your reply or feedback.

 

I had the truck accessory set up. There was still clearance for the 3 row radiator that I added later on.

 

@munkeywrench ,
I’m so sorry to keep bothering you but can you answer some more questions?
1. Where did you ended up mounting the GM ECU?
2. Did you mount the GM OBD port?
3. If so where?
4. I’ve been trying to find out if the factory GM gas pedals are interchangeable? I’ve been reading so much that I’m needing eye drops constantly. I found one from a Saturn Vue that looks close to the Toyota one. There’s absolutely no way to make the plastic truck pedal that came w/ the 06 L33 close to fitting.
5. You said if you use HP Tuners you can get all the Toyota factory gauges to work? I wonder if we can get the factory cruise to work? Any and all information you can pass along I would be eternally grateful!

Thanks so much‼️
Randy

 

No worries. That is the reasoning behind this thread, for info. I don't mind answering any questions.

1. I had it in the glove box. I took this into consideration when I was reworking the harness. You will need to shorten and lengthen wires since the stock position of the ECU is under the hood on the driver side.

2. Yes. I followed the instructions on LT1swap.com to wire this up.

3. It was right next to the stock Toyota OBD2 port.

4. The pedals are going to depend on whether you are going to use drive by wire or drive by cable. If you are going to run drive by cable it makes things a easier. Basically any cable driven pedal will work. A pedal out of an S10 will probably fit nicely. If you run drive by wire you will need a pedal with a sensor and a TAC module that interfaces with your ECU. I had drive by wire and I took a pedal and TAC module out of a 03 Silverado.

When you decide which way you want to go you are going to need to make sure the ECU you choose is compatible with your pedal. You can make a drive by wire ECU work with a cable but you cannot make a drive by cable ECU a drive by wire. So, you can use almost any ECU with cable but only some will support wire. Hope that makes sense.

5. Yes. HP tuners gives you the option to change the RPM signal output from 4cyl-V12. Changing it to V6 gives you the right signal for the stock cluster. The cruise control can be easily connected to the factory switch. Its a 12v, ground and signal wire.

 

Nice Monkey skillz...

 

Thank You‼️

My plan was to try to install the GM ECU next to the Toyota one behind the glove box.

I was planning on purchasing a Painless harness for the installer and I will ask if he can get it inside the cab along with the OBD2 port.

I like to go with a drive by wire. So I need to locate a gas pedal.

And I guess I will be forking money to HP tuners too!!! Heck I’ve already had the engine completely refreshed, updated and upgraded. Purchase Trailblazer SS manifold & TB, purchased 04 Vette accessories and brackets to bring the accessories closer to the block.

I just got to keep telling myself it’s only money.

 

Need more people like you in this world Sir.!

 

Hey munkey was curious if you looked into using the factory toyota gas pedal or not I was looking up some things and it looks like if you get the toyota connecter and remind it you could follow to the Gmail wiring properly. The only thing I don't see is what the resistance is supposed to be.

 

Toyota wiring

 

Chevy wiring

 

Yes I did look into this after I had it running. I think it may work by changing the wiring around I just never got around to it. I am pretty sure you can change the pedal resistance on HP tuners to make it work.