Can’t remove wheels, what now

Yes they were on and loosened when I drove around. I removed them when I went back and forth in my driveway. It didn’t matter. These are seized on well

 

My last resort I will or just watch them from the viewing window at a shop

 

Yeah no shit I agree

 

pull the valve stem core out so it can't build pressure inside. Wait until it cools down, reinstall the valve core and fill it with air

 

For the front, loosen the lug nuts by one or two threads. Park the truck next to a curb. Put a blanket or something down to protect your wheels if needed. Get the tire right next to the curb, turn the wheel back and forth against the immovable curb using the power steering to push the wheel back and forth. It should pop.

A bit tougher to do something like this for the rear, but I've had luck with the same one or two threads loose on the lugs, but with ALL OTHER LUGNUTS TIGHT!!!! Find a deserted road and go from 40mph, slamming on the breaks. Then in reverse, slam on the brakes. If that doesn't work, try violently sawing the wheel back and forth to move the weight of the truck around and cause the wheel to pop.

I've never had an issue using these methods. Again, do ONE WHEEL AT A TIME. All other lugs should be torqued to spec so you don't damage the studs.

 

With the lug nuts firmly tightened you can drive through a series of panic stops and heat up the rotor which should transfer some heat to the area where the wheel mounts. That may not help much with the rear wheel but it is a safe way to apply a bit of heat. Otherwise keep hitting it with PB Blaster and using a 2x4 or even better, a 2x6 on the backside of the rim to avoid damage to the rim. With the 2x6 there you can give some nice blows to the rim without causing any damage.

 

Try an air hammer or needle scaler on the hub face, let it rattle for a while?

 

You can use a curb on the rears too. Get the front up the curb and the rear you want to pop parallel as you can and up against. Loosen the rear lugs a thread or two then try to drive the rear wheel up the curb real slow and at a very shallow angle. This will wedge the curb face against the tire face and lever it off.

You'll scuff the sidewall, but having done it twice on an old POS, not bad enough to actually damage the tire.

 

I have a friend that always puts a little anti-seize when installing his wheels, I’ve never done this but he has for years

 

You guys are telling me this threads been here an entire day and no one said to hit it with your purse yet???

Seriously though, put all the wheels back on and just take it somewhere for a "tire rotation." If you take it to any shop thats been in business more than 3 years, it won't be their first time encountering this. Sounds like you're just gonna end up ruining your studs either way.

 

If they are that stuck heat may be your only option, I've have good luck getting siezed bolts out of aluminum with heat as aluminum expands quite alot when heated vs steel. I'm not talking red hot but just enough heat to expand it, aluminum dissipates heat very quicky so as long as you don't get carried away with the torch you aren't gona hurt anything.

Mine were stuck the first time I rotated them although not that bad (aluminum wheel steel hub it's inevitable), I sanded the corrosion off with sandpaper and put antisieze on the hub and on the part of the wheel that goes over the hub and they c9me right off every time now. I reapply it every few times I have them off.

 

Good call.

 

Ok I got the front to pop this evening backing up and turning the wheel while applying the brake. Mind you the day before I resprayed the lugs, hub and behind the hub, drove around with the lugs a few threads loose and went forward, backward in my driveway a bunch of times. Once I got that one off I didn't see too much heavy corrosion, however inside the rim was quite a bit of aluminum burrs and slightly rolled edges on the holes. I wire brushed, used a dremel, and some steel wool to clean the rims (lug holes and hub hole) and wire brushed the studs and hub face. Threads looked great, no damage. Afterwards I put antiseaze on the hub face, hub center boss, a light coat on the hub hole in the rim and very light coat on the lug holes.

The rear I am soaking again tonight. I don't have any curbs in our neighborhood...no tree lawns sidewalks so I had to improvise with placing 1-2 2x4s on the ground and I jacked the truck up, slid the wood underneath the inner edge of the tread, then dropped the jack. I did this multiple times and moved the wood block to the outside of the tire too....still wouldn't budge. I drove the truck through my neigborhood a bit to try and get something to happen but nothing has worked yet.

I will try again tomorrow. I haven't tried the purse yet...my wife packs alot in hers..maybe that would work... I like the bottlejack idea. I may try to purchase one tomorrow as I do not have one of those...just a floor jack and jack stands. I'm definitely not using a torch/heat method or even considering it.

 

I saw a tow driver ram into the stick wheel with the tread face of another wheel/tire combo to knock a stuck rim loose. That'd prevent any chance of denting the wheels.

 

So I wanted to summarize how I got the most stubborn rim off. I jacked the rear of the truck up (both rears off the ground) and made sure I had a sledgehammer with a rubber coating. I proceeded to hit the inside edge of the rim and rotate the tire in multiple spots and kept hitting. I finally got it loose but it was very hard to remove. As it turns out it was not due to corrosion. The rim and hub face had hardly a trace of evidence. What was apparent were shavings of aluminum on the steel threads. The holes on the rims have closed up slightly due to rolled burrs inside of some of the holes. Has anyone experienced this before? I only had a dremel tool available and not many bits to select from to try and grind the burrs away. I couldn't find a small enough wire brush at any big box stores. Anyone have suggestions how to open the holes up again? Do I need to take it to a shop so they can ream the holes? Maybe I can hand ream them?

 

Sounds like whoever put them on last threw them onto the threads and drove the wheel on by tightening the lugs, rather than seating it on the hub and then tightening. That's the only way I can think of that would cause the stud holes to get so chewed up.

Tacomas use hub centric wheels, so as long as the holes clear and you can seat the wheel back on the hub, no need to have the holes precision reamed or anything. Get the wheel on the hub, hold it steady if it wants to fall off, and hand seat the first two or three lugs until they're on far enough to hold the wheel on the hub.

 

Well the reason I am asking about opening the holes back up is because a few days after I reseated the rim properly, I still had to hammer the rim back off with a sledge. That's not normal, it should never be that difficult after only a few days.

 

Out of curiosity, are you using stock lug nuts or aftermarket with your aftermarket wheels?

 

Post a pic. I cant see how the stud holes could interfere that much to cause such a big issue. I've worked on a few cars with stuck hub-centric rims and it never looks as bad as you would expect in the way of corrosion at the wheel / hub interface.

What Im saying is you should lube that area, regardless. Anti seize, fluid film, whatever. Then try again and see if that helps

 

Aftermarket. They are the splined lug nuts designed to fit with the FN Five Stars. I purchased them from the same source as the rims