Reciever Shackle swapping question

Hi all,

So I currently use the agency 6 receiver block and bow shackle for all my towing / recovery needs. I am looking to move away from metal bow shackles to remove any possible metal components that could be lethal in case anything were to happen... Can I put one of my gear America soft shackles through the eyelet of the agency 6 receiver block, or are these receiver blocks specific by any means to the type of shackle it uses? I would assume it does not matter, and to just ensure that there are no sharp edges to make sure I don't cut my soft shackle...

Any tips and knowledge are appreciated.


https://agency6.com/collections/shackle-blocks/products/shackle-block-xl-2-assembly-red

 

As long as your pull is 100% straight you should be fine .

Go off at an angle soft shackles can cut so very easy.

 

The biggest thing is to make sure that the shackle pin hole in your hitch receiver has rounded edges. You don’t want to run a soft shackle over a sharp corner.

 

The edges are rounded off so it should be ok with a good soft shackle. The hitch itself can be rotated in the receiver if you need to make an angled pull.

Factor 55 has pretty much the same design and advertise as being soft shackle friendly.
https://factor55.com/product/hitchlink/


Contact the manufacturer to verify, though.

 

Have one and some of their soft shackle.

From a rope rescue and climbing background and my knowledge of Dyneema, the bend radius makes me nervous. To add to the concern, one of my 2 soft shackles won't pass through the eyelet. (both made by F55)

Brenans Garage
https://brennans-garage.com/collect...iever-adapter-2-5-size?variant=43987252281648

I am currently using an SSRA and his SK78 Soft shackle. Everything about is better. Smaller, wayyy better bend radius, and eliminates one more point of failure.

 

My take on peoples attempt at removing any possible metal components from the system. It is literally impossible to do. Regardless if you use only soft shackles you will still need to know if whatever you attach it to is up to the task. I question a lot of bumpers and there attachment to a vehicle. You also need to be able to evaluate some else's fabrication in a lot of scenarios. Even synthetic ropes and winch lines will recoil/have stored energy. Precautions need to be taken regardless. It is always best to have redundancy in the system. Have and use multiple attachment points and do your best to make sure each is up to the task.

 

Looking at this devise,looks like a great item.

 

From what I've read the bend radius should be at least a 1:1 for synthetic lines and shackles.

 

I only recently got some soft shackles, and haven't put them to use much. But if I wanted to get a hitch recovery point for them I'd go with this style. It's more of a donut shape with softer edges all the way around.

 

That one linked above at brenans garage looks like the best I’ve seen.

 

I think that you can replace the anchor shackle I see used by Agency6 with a similar shackle usually called a "safety shackle". Get a real one from Crosby. They have a SAE Grade 8 bolt in place of the screw-in pin - use a nut and cotter for security. You must deliberately take them apart. The axis of the pin should be vertical to allow 180º of freedom from side loading - and the bolt will not allow the legs of the shackle to spread from minor up or down load angles. Least expensive way to upgrade to a safer arrangement. Soft shackles won't be injured by the shackle radius.

Common 3/4" anchor shackles have often been tested to destruction using an aligned load on the screw-in pin. A number of 57,000 pounds is commonly reported at ultimate failure. A 28 ton load would result in pieces of your truck being damaged or ripped away. The worst examples of failure I've seen illustrated - some yokel had pulled them apart, side loading the legs of the bow.

 

You could also use a winch line damper for added safety.