AC isn't cold

I have a 2014 Tacoma sport with 131k and change on the odometer. I've regularly changed the oil, transfer case and front/rear diff fluids. Air and cabin filters also on a regular basis, but that's about it.

Recently I've noticed that the ac isn't cold. Also, the horn quit working.
There are no flashing lights or anything and the temp gauge doesn't get above the middle even during long periods of idling during stop and go traffic on hot days.

I'm pretty comfortable with most maintenance activities as long as I have a guide. I've tried searching, but I can't seem to find the thread with instructions on flushing the radiator, etc.

I'm thinking I need to flush the radiator, change the hoses, change the serpentine belt, but are there other things I should do or check?

Thanks!

Fyi, I changed over to fully synthetic oil @ 20k; used mobile1, Pennzoil platinum, royal purple, and the last couple of changes (5k interval), have been amsoil 5w30.

 

I could be way off, but the fuse for the horn might be the fuse for the ac too, and if that’s the case you’re in business for an easy fix. Or maybe both fuses are bad and they are independent of eachother, check your ac magnetic clutch relay too, in the fuse box as well. If not that, check out this thread.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/a-c-light-blinking-troubleshooting-guide.440200/

She starts with a 4Runner then moves to the Tacoma. Best coolant flush tutorial out there in my opinion. Pending on how they feel/condition, maybe replace your no 1 and no 2 (two of these) idler pulleys, water pump and thermostat…. All of that is is the same location so it’s convenient. I would at least replace the idler pulleys if you’re doing the serpentine belt. Water pumps can last a long time but some fail between 150,000 and 200,000, that’s up to you. Gates makes a good OEM quality pulley, save yourself some cash.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=jFB_adKLmPg

 

Great! Thanks! I'll look into those. I don't have a blinking ac light, not sure if that makes a difference or not.

Is there a paper guide? Just wondering if anyone had created one.

 

There are a few coolant flush tutorials here on TW but I think her method is the most thorough and easy to follow.

 

After a few years (like 7) the AC can become week and needs to be serviced. Takes special AC tools so most people have a reputable shop do the service. Is the AC week or nonexistent?

 

Baloney. My 93 Dodge Dakota had the coldest ac I ever experienced,was still the same after 210k,never had it "serviced". Refrigerant doesn't go bad. The OP never stated if hos compressor is even cycling or not.

 

A ‘93 Dodge is not a Toyota. Had to recharge my 2009 Camry after 10 years and should have done it sooner. Basically the same V6 as the Tacoma, but I don’t know about how the AC compares.

 

So, how would I know if the compressor is cycling? There is air movement when I turn on the fan. It is nice and hot when I turn the temperature from cold to hot. When it is on the AC, the air is "like warm". Supposedly, when the fan is running, there is a high pitched squeal, but I can't hear it.

 

The coolant flush is a good idea and is suggested perform every 30K or 2 years. The two block drains are a little difficult to access and for what it's worth, not a whole of of coolant drains out of them. BTW - the funnel kit that Faye talks about in her video is well worth the coin.

Something else you might want to consider is to clean the coils on the condenser and the radiator as well. Dead bugs and other funk can restrict air flow. I clean the coils once a year and the first time I did the temp of the AC dropped 5 degrees. I use this foam spray cleaner followed by plenty of water on my truck and the outside unit for my home AC. Believe me, during this time of year AC is important!

 

1. yes it does
2. it gradually leaks out over time, OP is probably low on r134a
3. congratulations, good for you

air movement is from the blower motor (fan) being a fan.

Compressor kick on means RPM drop, feeling a difference, one line getting hot while the other line gets cold, cold air flowing from vent up to 40deg below outside (thermometer) if refrigerant charge is within spec, compressor probably getting hot if I remember right, and feeling vibration on it (as it's kind of like a motor inside; it has pistons)
front clutch engaging to actually turn the compressor
without any obvious signs of issue like the front being torn apart, etc.

it helps to verify the system has pressure and correct quantity of R134a
without that, it's just guessing

 

Thanks for the suggestions.

 

For your AC I'd recommend taking it to a shop and having them make sure it's full. Over time refrigerant leaks out. You can have then put some UV dye in as well to trace for leaks if it blows warm again.

 

The Facts Are The Facts, Jack

you ever heard of this thing called an oil change?
You see, oil that lubricates moving parts tends to wear out
an A/C compressor, which is also lubricated by oil, has it wear out
oil that also in aerosol form mixed with refrigerant, gets dirty over time catching contaminants
which is why if you inspect that oil over time, it is dirty.

That is why it is good to every now and again, to change it. And not costly to do so.

A leak is not fully indicative of a failure in the system. The system is not perfectly sealed. A small amount of refrigerant loss slowly over time happens, and is enough to lose A/C function. This happens to most automobiles, and has been that way for a while.
That is why the standard procedure followed by shops starting out with any reported customer A/C concerns, is to begin with a recharge.

Those are two reasons why, for example, if you work at a shop that has an A/C machine and daily drive a vehicle that is old
it is common to pull it in after work, do a recharge service on it, then pay the parts department for the quantity of R134a you used to that
which is usually gonna be a bill of about $0-20.