Programming extra keys Gen 2

2012 Access cab, SR5 4X4

I recently lost both of my original keys in a move and the hustle of preparing for a wedding, when I bought the truck I was given an aftermarket key that works for the door and the ignition, so I am not stranded. However, I obviously would like another 2 keys. I bought two blanks of of Ebay, one OEM and the other with an attached FOB which is aftermarket. I had planned on using a techstream clone to code them and then get them cut at my hardware store. When I went out to the truck to get them coded just now I tried multiple times to access the immobilizer ECU with no success. With every attempt it claims that the ECU is not responding or malfunctioning and to refer to a manual. Any ideas on this? The truck runs fine with the one key that I have, so clearly something is working ok. Is it possible that the immobilizer is broken and I have not actually been using it this whole time? Whatever I do, I am nervous about messing with it too much in case the car erases the only key that works right now. Also, the Main Body ECU was not responding, which meant that I could not program the FOB either.

As a side note, when I log into techstream it gives me 5 different options of model to choose from Something like -1505, 1506-1679, ..... (These are not the actual numbers) I never know which one to choose, but this issue came up on all five options.

 

Do you have a V6? 4cyl US trucks don't have an immobilizer.

 

Ah, OK! it is a 4cyl so that would explain it. I guess I will head to the hardware store then!

 

How would I program the FOB though?

 

Yea Canadian 4cyl trucks had an immobilizer but in the US only V6 trucks have it.
You can tell by looking for the security light next to the clock, it blinks every couple seconds when the key is removed on trucks equipped with an immobilizer.

 

I'm pretty sure it's a sequence of key and door cycles to get into programming mode, I'll look it up in a bit.

 

Here you go.

 

Thank you for responding so quickly Dm93, I will try that out.

 

I got one key cut, but they botched it, did not charge me at least. The other one that doubles as a FOB was too big, so I went home and was able to take my time with a file and now I have another key! I really did not think I could pull off the cutting myself. Now I am trying the procedure to get it to work with the truck, but have not been successful. I was able to get into the programming mode, as outlined in the document, but every time I tried to press buttons on the key the truck told me I had failed to register it successfully. At this point I am thinking that perhaps that is because it is an Ebay special, not OEM.

 

Try this for the fob. It worked for me (2015) with a cheap Amazon fob.


https://youtu.be/BYd6ayq-Ivs

If you’re having issues with the key immobilizer, there’s another solution I was going to try this weekend

 

BTW -- A fob was originally a small ornament attached to a watch chain. It's been adopted for things like unlock remotes on a keychain. But it's not an acronym when used this way, and doesn't need full caps. Writing "fob" alone gets it done.

("FOB" does exist as an acronym, but it's one of the standard Incoterms used by shipping companies to note what parts of the process are the responsibility of which party. FOB = Free On Board, notes the seller is responsible for clearing the goods for export and getting them on board the shipping vessel, where the goods then become the responsibility of the buyer. Yeah... TMI...)

 

I was wondering about that, thank you for filling me in. I still cannot get it to work, either with the video or with the printout. I guess I will just have to be happy with a key that works with no fob.

 

Did you ever have a remote that unlocked the doors? I'm guessing it was part of the lost keys, but wanted to make sure.

I've had no trouble getting my 2015 into remote-programming mode using the sequences online. If it were going to work for ya, it probably would have.

My Gen 1, per the original build sheet, has keyless entry. But it doesn't There's no way I've ever been able to get it into remote programming mode. (I shouldn't have sold my previous Gen 1 with the TVIP system. Shoulda transferred it over! Grr...)

Back to point 1 -- you did once have functioning remotes, yes?

 

I did not get the remote to work. I did have one that worked, and it was lost in the move. It may very well show up at some point in the future though. I will have to do with just keyed entry.

 

Was the lost unlock remote a factory original? Is there a chance your truck has an aftermarket system (which would not respond to the normal programming prompts)?

 

I think that could be the issue, I recently went through this with my wife's 2014 Rav4 (which has an immobilizer, FWIW).

Dealer cut and programmed the key to start the ride but the buttons (integrated) don't work. UGH

 

The remote lock/unlock and the ignition immobilizer are completely different programming, BTW. An owner can add an OEM-spec remote (with the right FCC ID) by oneself. The immobilizer takes special software at a dealer or locksmith.

When I added an eBay folding key/fob to my 2015 Tacoma, I did the lock/unlock part easy-peasy, but I had to pay a locksmith to program the immobilizer to recognize the key so it would start the truck.

 

The old remote was a factory original.