Nearing 250k mi and I have some questions

before I start asking some questions I just want to say that my passenger rear tire was hit recently and my insurance wanted to total loss my baby. I talked them down and I essentially got some numbers to play with when I take it to the shop for repairs. Apparently the estimator is worried the rear axel is fugged (might have to do a Tundra swap) among other things. As long as nothing is too crazy under the bed I'd rather put the money under the hood and keep it on the road while leaving the dings for now. Honestly: it just looks like the rim got damaged and I need to replace that along with some bodywork, but I'm no doctor.

Now that I am at nearly 250k mi, what maintenance should I be looking into? I was already planning on doing belts + water pump before the accident but the person I wanted to help me never got back to me and then he went on vacation.

I've noticed that my oil is lower than it should be and I'm pretty sure I put some in not that long ago. I looked around and noticed the engine is a bit oily and I suppose that could be my missing oil.

Front


Driver side


Passenger side


WTF is that

The estimator said the collision knocked my leaves loose and they need to be replaced but now says that likely wasn't caused by the accident. I wouldn't mind upgrading and going long travel, maybe even mid travel, but that will eat my entire budget right now, so could I just leave them alone or whack them back into place with a hammer? There are some interesting rust patterns that seem to show where the leaves should be.

Rear facing forward


facing rear passenger wheel


Front facing rear.

I might just replace my shocks (one popped out before the accident and cut my brake line, but Jesus took the wheel and I didn't die. The brake line has since been fixed but the e brake line is stretched out like a fat woman's skin after gastric bypass) since I noticed the naughty one popped out after the collision and the spindle thread is too worn to be refitted. Should I replace with the same shocks I have or something more aggressive? I currently have the Bilstein 5100s (f4-be5-d559-t0 / f4-be5-d560-t0 - is there a newer version of these?) and figured I would go with these then upgrade later once I am ready to commit to long or mid travel. I saw the relocation towers from Archive Garage and that has piqued my interest. If I can avoid chopping my bed up, or keeping it to a tidy minimum that would be preferable since I'd have plenty of gear with me and like laying in my bed.

Insurance is only covering 1 rim and 1 tire to be replaced. I'd like to swap them all with a size large enough to fit Tundra brakes, but that could run $1-2k for tires and rims. I currently have American Racing 058s and have read conflicting info regarding backspacing and offset. I haven't measured offset but backspacing seems to be between 3-3.25"


Mine have the 6x5.5" pattern on 32x11.50R15(x8 wide). With my TRD SR5 off-road package can I go 33 without issue?

If going up to 16" or 17" (rather not have something that heavy, but I do want Tundra brakes) is too much of a hassle right now, I found some American racing 026 saw blades with used tires that might be the same size as my current setup. The only thing is I haven't found the backspacing / offset for them and don't know if they will have any issues.


Just an example, they will be 15x8" with a 6x5.5 pattern.


With all these issues I almost, almost think I may have been better with the total loss, but in today's market it would be tough replacing my truck, and I'd REALLY miss it, especially now that the V6 is going extinct (granted I wouldn't mind a D4-D). I'd really like to fix any major issues first followed by spec'ing the suspension for trips to Baja. I know long travel isn't mandatory and I should be happy with 4x4 + overland mods, but when I was a kid I remember seeing the ocean and asking why we never went to the beach I could see from the highway and was told that the only way to get there was a dirt road and it would take an hr. or two because we would have to drive so slowly. After discovering long travel I have wanted to equip my truck with a proper suspension and fly down that dirt road and any other for the matter, so long as I don't run over any turtles, etc. As far as budget goes I'm thinking I have $3-6k to play with, up to $11k total for all repairs and mods (maybe a little more if I eat ramen for the rest of the year). I know inflation is a thing but it would be nice to get another 10 yrs / 100k mi for apx $10k but I'm open to suggestions, advice, etc. This thread is kind of long but I figured if I opened a thread for each issue then someone could complain about that instead, so hopefully this will be more organized and take up less space.

 

P.S. the oil never makes it to the ground, it just sort of goos up in the area seen in the pictures.

 

I'd focus on essential maintenance and repairs that keep the truck on the road, then turn to upgrades when that is done.

Your oil issue seems to be a valve cover gasket leak. That oughta be a top priority, because all your other work will be for nothing if you run that engine too low on oil. That browning on the exhaust manifold appears to be burnt oil (dripping from your valve cover gasket(s)).

How much preventative maintenance (things like ball joints, fluid flushes, bushing replacements, greasing Ujoints, etc., has been done? Those things are gonna get you to that next 100k miles, not Tundra brakes and long travel. Also the tundra calipers won't fit your current wheels (you'd need 16" rims minimum).

 

Yeah, I want it roadworthy first, but if I can avoid upgrade vs replace when reasonable that would be desirable. As far as joints go I'd say 75% need to be replaced. I've got a few squeaks and I'm sure its time for replacements. I'm pretty good about oil changes, though I can't remember the last time the transmission was flushed

 

How about brake fluid flush? Coolant flush? Those two, behind oil, are probably the most important fluids to stay on top of.

I think I understand what your saying about some of the upgrades is you don't want to just fix things with stock type replacements (for things like leaf springs and shocks) then later upgrade them and end up having purchased parts twice. In that case you can probably get a good all around suspension lift using middle of the road parts (OME leaves and coils, 5100 shocks) and not spend more than about $1500-$2000.

I'd think twice about going to 33" tires. Staying in that 31-32" range will make fitment, without rubbing much less of a headache. Otherwise you're looking at needing 2-3" of suspension lift, 1" body lift and a good deal of trimming (and hammering), and perhaps aftermarket UCAs.

 

Pretty sure that 3-3.25 BS with 33's will create the need to cut and bash.
You can run a 33" tire with the proper backspacing and a lift, and have very little to no rub. I've gone through a couple sets of 285 75 16 (33's) on a 16x8 4" BS wheel, not once have I had UCA contact or pinch weld area contact, never trimmed or hammered anything. That includes aired down and wheeling. The only evidence of any rub is on the frame, and that is slight and rare in my case. I do have an OME 882 lift, and a 1" BL. But I honestly I don't know how much of a difference the 1" BL makes.

 

Definitely looks like valve cover gaskets.

OP - I'm in the camp that you repair and maintain before upgrades. Out of true curiosity, how realistic are your baja goals? This will really dictate your build and money you will spend. A lot of people say they want/need long travel but in reality don't need it because they either rarely wheel or wheel hard enough.

 

Another bit of info: I know i need to change bushings etc. due to the audio feedback my truck gives, but it likes to squeak a bit more in reverse. Should this be particularly alarming?

Did the brake fluid recently when the line was cut and repaired, so that should be fine. Not sure when the coolant was last flushed to be honest. I think someone recommended I mess with the differential fluid but I don't know how accurate that info was.

I just got off the phone with a supplier and am reordering the 5100 models I have. They seem to be well recommended and they're a good price. off-road it rode like a Cadillac so I can't really complain about them.

33"s aren't mandatory, I've seen some used rims come with them and figured if they fit I might go for it, but my current lift fits me like a glove, one reason I'm hesitant about long travel, that and extended maintenance.

Have you any specific leaf recommendations in case I need new ones?

I've never changed a gasket before but a car flipper said they are easy to do, just time consuming. I found this video (haven't watched it yet TBH) but if anyone has any other how-to recommendations I'd be interested.

I have ties in Baja, I don't go nearly as often as I used to but when shit happens down there roads disappear. I might be more suited for a mid travel suspension after repairs, but long travel goes WOOP!

 

https://youtu.be/rFPHrASrCUM
This guy's (Timmy the Toolman) videos are extremely helpful, and he's got videos on how to do most routine maintenance things that have been brought up in this thread.

For leaf springs most use Old Man Emu (OME). Deaver and Alcan springs are higher end leafs that many on here also use. I have Alcans that are awesome, and I can't recommend them enough, but they're quite pricey (about $1200).