TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

AMEN!

 

Eh for what they cost it was worth a shot. The premise of this thread is to be guinea pigs, experiment, and share knowledge, but now the majority of us know and are on board with the ideology to stay away. Nothing ever beats stock!

 

I'm okay with skepticism in the use of aftermarket but make sure to Dyno and have evidence of doing so. If you're not going to go thru the steps, it's no better than a butt dyno and doesn't do much. Not directing at you but everyone in general, guesstimating.

By the way, I'd happily dyno it if people chip in. Unfortunately, roller time is not free.

 

Why not just let us believe? So many people believe in God, after all. I bet even some of the people who just gave us shit do believe in god in some form.

 

Because I believe in the scientific method. Also, extraordinary claims should be backed up with extraordinary evidence.

 

I actually have a manifold spacer installed with the ProCharger.

 

At least to put some credit. @12TRDTacoma did dyno the "gimmick" mods before everyone gave it a go. Although not major, there was enough for people to say why not.

 

Ok @12TRDTacoma ..... you friggin' jinxed me.

As of a couple hours ago, I'm 99% certain I have a bad RIPP coil. Truck popped a P0305 code after a fuel fill up. Check engine light was on, truck was sluggish, engine idled super rough, etc....

Picked up a single ngk LFR7AIX-11 plug. Cleared the CELs, installed new plug in CYL5....and it popped the P0305 code within a minute. Killed the engine.

Installed stock coilpack back on Cyl #5....kept the new ngk spark plug. No CEL...smooth idle... going to go test drive.




Update: drove around for <10 miles... back to normal.

RIPP coil pack were installed June 2022 and had about 7k miles on them.

 

Unlike

 

Just clarifying that the statement I made wasn't a call out. I didn't even know he was the solenoid guy because I didn't read the thread until now.

Do whatever you got to do to keep em spinning boys.

 

And there it is see..

 

You do not have to take the supercharger off. You need a good ratchet a snap on quarter inch ratchet with a half inch drive and a hinge and too short extensions one wobble. do you have to remove the three screws and be sure to disconnect the electrical connector on the coil pack before you take the bolt out holding it down otherwise you will not have anything to pull against

 

I swapped to the rutherium. just the other day and they seem pretty good. Tad hot but I’m I. Phoenix, so basically, if I’m sitting at a light and floor it might have a tiny bit of detonation, but once it’s moving and it’s cooled down it’s fine I think I’m going to swap out to 160 thermostat I’ll let you know how it goes

 

This is what I see when I peer down the coil boot of a RIPP coil pack that gave me P0305 (CYL #5 misfire) problems.

 

I had to take mine off. we couldn't get the packs out when @SUMOTNK and I installed mine. But with enough room. should be good. I think I had a line that was wedge and which prevented us from getting at least one plug off.

 

eeek that is not looking great. Any though of just RIPP packs or RIPP and the Ruths? I honestly do not have many miles on mine yet but that does not look good. Surprised for you @SUMOTNK you have not had them that long.

 

I'm surprised that it looks so yuck for something that fit so snug. Really don't think that it was caused by moisture or dirt, etc..

As for the Ruths....I'll be switching them all to the ngk that's in CYL #5.

 

I dont think R/Ring the plugs or stock coil packs requires the blower to come off. Small mouse-like hands will be exponentially more effective versus bear paws if doing either job.

IiRC, your blower had to come off because it was binding/pinching the wiring harness and we needed more slack to fit the RIPP coil pack which is physically larger than stock. Removing the blower allowed access to create more slack in the harness because it was straightened or rerouted...

 

@SUMOTNK that looks like the terminal is long arcing /too hot based on all the splatter and not necessarily a failure in coil other than the distance. You could technically clean with contact cleaner and reapply die electric. Or listen to everyone about dead coils..

But I've always been skeptical that the ruthenium terminal could be short ended yet people ran them with success