Trailer connector on truck

Everything is factory. 2019 SR5 with towing packge. Inside the connector/recepticle on the truck, I have power to the + pole and to the running lights. No power on any other poles. Checked every fuse under hood and under dash. All good. Swapped relay with horn relay. Still no luck. What am I missing?

 

How are you testing the brake/turns? Multimeter or tow plug tester, and whats your signal, someone holding the brake or turns/hazards? Reason why I ask is that depending on brand, a multimeter might not recognize the rapid cycling of 0-12V.

Do you have a brake controller installed to test pin #2?

 

As @Rock Lobster said, we need more info. Not all pins are powered unless they are activated somehow. Through brake controller, foot on brakes, blinkers turned on, etc etc.

 

I'm using a dc continuity tester. Not familiar with pin numbers, but the pin at the 4 o'clock position has a + on the diagram. I have power there. The pin at the 2 o'clock position is labeled running lights and has no power there with running lights on. The pin at the 12 o'clock position is labeled left stop/turn and has no power there when the left blinker is on, the brakes are applied, or the hazards are on. Same with the pin at the 6 o'clock position labeled right stop/turn. Then pin at the 10 o'clock position is labeled - . That is where I connect my tester lead. That's all of the info that I know to give.

 

Out of curiosity have you hook a trailer up to see what lights work. If you haven’t why are you testing it? Fairly new truck with factory installed tow, it should work.

 

Yes. New trailer. Used twice. Running lights work. No turn, brake or hazards. Yes, should work. It doesn't. I have watched you tube and asked friends. Thought maybe someone on here could help. So far, just obvious questions. I'm looking for something not so obvious.

 

This is the scheme that came on my truck - its a 2014 with tow package........

Just sitting there with the engine running, it should have 12v power to pin #2 and the pin #6 should show continuity to the truck frame. Turning on the lights should add power to the #1 pin.

When I picked up the truck - this silly socket was hanging out (exposed completely) on the bottom of the bumper. After seeing several dozen of them smashed and knocked off - I put a hole in the bumper and moved it up alongside the license plate. If yours has been dragged off at some point - suspect the repair job....

 

Thank you for the diagram. Here is what I have. Picture of the connector. I have power to + and running lights. Nothing on the rest when circuit is activated. I will be double checking fuses.

 

Are you using a continuity tester or a test light? They are different (does it have a battery in it?). I don't believe that a continuity tester is what you want to be using here.

 

A dc test light. It has no source of power except for the circuit being tested.

 

A few more obvious questions are next.

Are the contacts clean and shiny? The next step is to crawl under the truck and do a precursory glance on the wiring loom from bumper to cab. Any obvious damage, any place where the plastic wrap/tape has been undone by a previous shadetree modder?

 

Isn't there a trailer light relay in the under hood fuse box? Might want to swap that with one that is similar.

 

Yes. All avenues have been exhausted. Wanna hear some twilight zone stuff? Today when I started going back over things, I had power to the turn/brake/hazard pens and no power to the running lights........LOL. True story!

 

Yes. I swapped it with the horn relay, which is identical. No change.
Today when I started going back over things, I had power to the turn/brake/hazard pens and no power to the running lights........LOL. True story!

 

Its been years since I moved the trailer socket on my truck...... but it seems to me that there was a harness connection behind the bumper. A plug and socket where corrosion or moisture ingress might have occurred. I found the PDF file someone sent me when I was verifying my connections.

 

Thank you for the schematic info. I took the plug apart and all points are clean with white lithium grease applied.

 

OK folks. With all avenues exhausted on my end, I find myself at the dealership. $165 to diagnose. I will post the outcome and final cost. Thanks to everyone that tried to help. I keep telling myself that the truck is useless without the connector. Some will say that it would have been cheaper to just add a new connector. Sorry, not to me.

 

Update on my connector....SFM! When checking fuses, I must have put one in the wrong place. $165 brain fart!

 

It happens. don't sweat it.

 

Thanks....