5 Lug rust belt fun.....

Been working on my 2007 Base 2wd; changing my front struts, sway bar links, sway bar bushings and cleaning things up (scraping, sanding, and painting) before the new parts go in. I really love the simplicity of this base 2wd. I own my own business rebuilding fire extinguishers and other safety work and this demands a lot of miles, no real need for 4wd, and I always have a fairly light load as I rarely transport more than a dozen (approximately 200-250#s). If I have an area that demands 4x4 I take my Jeep Commander. Eventually I will get a 4x4 Taco, but for now with only 142K miles on it I'm going to get what I can out of it first. I have had this little truck for 11 years with really no problems.

Being a retired Firefighter and current fire suppression tech means I am good with tools, and mechanically inclined, but obviously not a trained auto mech. This job has really pushed me, living in the rust belt all my life I know all too well what happens when you maintenance anything that lives outside. I started two days in advance spraying all the bolts nuts and bushings with PB Blaster, and still fought these like hell. I used a ratcheting wrench and a cheater bar to back the top struts nuts off a ways then grabbed the DeWalt 4.5" grinder and cut them off (the back one had to come out by removing the bolt as there was no access for the grinder. I also used the New Diablo blade for thick steel (carbide) and it cuts thick mild steel well, not so much on a grade 10.5 suspension bolt, although it probably would if you beat it (at 14 bucks a piece). The two upper control arm bolts (5 lugs have two) were an absolute nightmare. I cleaned the threads well before trying to wrench them but the bushing started spinning and the nut safety flanges (no clue what they are called, they just keep the nut from loosening)) started bending. After too long trying to get them off with vise grips on the inside and a ratchet with cheater bar on the outside I again went back to the UCA and cut it off with my grinder. This gave me access to quickly cut on the inside of the UCA bolt flange and drop out the bushings. It appears the 4x4s are designed a lot different allowing quicker access to the strut. I found new UCAs at Napa for $136 each, Toyota wanted $265 each. Even if the UCA came out, the cost of new ball joint and bushings and the cost of having a shop press the ball joint in would have eaten a lot of the cost of a replacement arm. I figure to get in this deep and leave the old bushings and ball joint would be counterproductive.

Today I am cleaning everything since the struts are out, then slapping some Rustoleum paint on exposed surfaces to to add a bit of longevity (mostly to make me feel better). They make a paint you hand brush that I use on my big mower deck and the stuff is tough. After I get it finished I am taking it to get the alignment done.

I find it crazy what it costs in labor to fix cars and trucks these days. I think far too many vehicles hit the junkyard way before they are shot because it simply doesn't work financially
to have a shop do this kind of work. My 2007 Tacoma with 142K miles is only worth maybe 4 or 5K, but this repair in a shop may have run a couple grand. That said, I can run this truck for many years yet with no new truck payment.

 

Good work! My theory is usual for vehicle work I can do it cheaper and if I have to buy any specific tool I usually do, so then I have it for future project. Slapping on some new parts and paint will always make things look better. I'm sure some of those joints were tired as well.

 

Update; I got the Drivers side done and I am doing the passenger side today. I used Bilstein 4600s but reused the strut and springs. My springs were only an 1/8" shorter than the spec for the new springs so I decided to leave them. Surprisingly the side that is done is about an inch plus taller than the old side. A lot of people say the shock change will not affect height but it did. Of course the new shocks may settle in a bit also, not sure on that. I also did the rear shocks.

 

Nice Work!
Assuming all those suspension points are fixed so no alignment needed?

 

It's going in for an alignment, it's been quite a bit since it was last done and I want to make sure the new tires will not wear funny. I upgraded my rims a few years ago to 16" and I am not sure what size to run. I want a decent size tire but I am not going to lift because this is a work truck. That said I drive on dirt, in fields, gravel roads.... im 2wd but if the weather is bad, I take a different vehicle. It would be nice to go with a 245/70R 16.... I think it will be okay, any thoughts?

 

I had my 2010 in for the frame replacement 2 years ago and at 117K on the suspension I figured might as well pony up for new shocks and coils while it's there, free labour and stuff.

Only 4/5K? I think you would be pleasantly surprised, obviously some will not want a 2WD but it's still gonna hold value and it's great for someone who wants to just drive it.

Where abouts are you located?

 

I am up in central Iowa. I looked into the frame replacement but it did not appear to include my rig? Mine is a 2007 Base 2wd.

 

GOod question if Iowa was part of it, but at this age it definitely is out

 

And re the sway bar I wouldn't even try to break free. Grind and go.