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Turbo BS Thread

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by Clay_916, Mar 20, 2017.

  1. Jul 2, 2023 at 7:00 AM
    unstpible

    unstpible Well-Known Member

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    I think that's been the only downside of removing the hood from the very start. Right now the tallest piece is the coolant supply line
     
  2. Jul 2, 2023 at 9:14 AM
    Brake Weight

    Brake Weight But it hasn't rained in weeks...I'll make it.

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    Deep South near the Third Coast
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    Weld on sliders, fiberglass shell, 12k winch in an Elite Offroad bumper, front Aussie Lunchbox
    betterbuckleup likes this.
  3. Jul 2, 2023 at 5:58 PM
    unstpible

    unstpible Well-Known Member

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    Made my own ugly butt effective oil drain fitting :welder: IMG_20230702_184347.jpg
    :duh:
     
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  4. Jul 2, 2023 at 6:09 PM
    yota243

    yota243 Well-Known Member

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    Bw s256 turbo with 3 in glass pack dumped pre axle raptor liner bed and top rails and fenderflares and rocker panels. Hunter side steps. Plasti-dipped upper fenders and emblems. satin black spray paint here and there inside and out. 5100's set to 1.75" up front . C channel front bumper. Maxxis bighorn 255/85/16
    Bro, it's on the bottom side of the turbo and it's going to be covered by a hose... I literally went to Lowes and got threaded metal pipe fittings with hose barb ends and screwed it into mine and welded the other on the timing chain window for the return... If it's stupid, but it works, it ain't stupid haha
     
  5. Jul 2, 2023 at 6:11 PM
    Speedytech7

    Speedytech7 Toyota Cult Ombudsman

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    It's less Tacoma and more mod
    Looks good to me, mine is just an aluminum dealio with a brass AN conversion fitting jammed in. Whatever gets the job done.
     
    Torspd and unstpible[QUOTED] like this.
  6. Jul 2, 2023 at 6:18 PM
    Jon64l

    Jon64l Well-Known Member

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    Looks good. Hit it with some paint or wrinkle powder coat and call it done. Keep up that good progress!

    Be sure to delete that tag on the compressor outlet. Boost leak waiting to happen.
     
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  7. Jul 2, 2023 at 6:20 PM
    Speedytech7

    Speedytech7 Toyota Cult Ombudsman

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    It's less Tacoma and more mod
    That's a really dumb place for that isn't it? Usually they put em on a flat spot on the compressor housing.
     
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  8. Jul 2, 2023 at 6:31 PM
    Jon64l

    Jon64l Well-Known Member

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    Prevents over boost :thumbsup:
     
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  9. Jul 3, 2023 at 1:01 AM
    unstpible

    unstpible Well-Known Member

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    I'm glad you mentioned that tag. I thought it seemed like odd placement. Apparently it's just standard operating procedure for CX to put things where they are an inconvenience.

    The support rod coming up from the manifold to the T4 flange is right in the way for the mounting hardware and it won't go in the other direction either because the V band flange for the down pipe.
    IMG_20230702_222726.jpg

    IMG_20230702_222805.jpg

    Both of the banjo fittings for the coolant lines also hit the hardware for clocking the hot side when it's in the correct position
    (I noticed this a while back and may have already mentioned it)
    IMG_20230702_221950.jpg

    IMG_20230702_221958.jpg
    Little inconvenience add up but it's still been a fun project.

    I'll also mention I am not a fan of building my own braided lines. The very last fitting I put together for oil drain got me pretty good. Great opportunity to test my blood sugar levels if I were diabetic.
    IMG_20230702_214110.jpg
    I really hope they all seal correctly so I don't have to try my hands at it again in the near future.
     
    Torspd and GoJo like this.
  10. Jul 3, 2023 at 7:45 AM
    Jon64l

    Jon64l Well-Known Member

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    You could switch to studs for turbo mounting hardware. They are stronger anyway.

    Yeah clocking can be fun with fittings. Just gotta figure out which side of the bolt you want to be on. Looks like you could grind the bolt. Do those Banjos have crush washers? They should to help seal.

    Braided lines are fun, that one is different from what I normally have used (Earls). One trick that has worked for me is tightly wrap electrical tape 2 times around your cut line. Have everything set up then cut in the middle of tape with a angle grinder cut off wheel. Quickly blow out the line with air and assemble.
     
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  11. Jul 3, 2023 at 8:46 AM
    unstpible

    unstpible Well-Known Member

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    I just knew you were going to notice the crush washers. I have them sitting with the other hardware and gaskets so I don't have to worry about damaging or loosing them while things are being mocked up.

    Good call with the exhaust studs as well :hattip:

    I did end up using electrical tape on that fitting but after I had already cut the line and feathered the stainless steel out when I realized I forgot to slip the other end of the fitting onto the hose after cutting it.
     
    Jon64l likes this.
  12. Jul 3, 2023 at 9:30 AM
    unstpible

    unstpible Well-Known Member

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    There is a VSV I'd like to double check the correct routing for and 2 vacuum ports that I have left open still that need addressed.

    The BOV and WG both have a Vacuum port on the top that I'm uncertain about. For the WG I believe the port is to add pressure to the top of the diaphragm keeping it closed longer than the spring pressure and is where the boost controller will come into play down the road. For now while I'm not using the boost controller do I need to cap that off or leave it open to the elements or even just add the turbosmart manual boost controller and turn it to it's lowest setting ?

    The BOV is adjustable so I'm beginning to believe its port functions similarly to the WG ill have to check and see if it came with operating Instructions. At this moment it's just open to atmosphere

    The VCV / solenoid I'm not sure on was originally supplied fresh air right off the back of the air box and was routed across the front of the engine next to the TB cable. Currently i have it plugged into the port where the passenger side PCV was routed behind the TB. I assume it will need a Check Valve as well.
     
  13. Jul 3, 2023 at 9:50 AM
    Jon64l

    Jon64l Well-Known Member

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    Pics will help.

    Definitely put a line from compressor outlet brass nipple to bottom of wastegate diaphragm. This pressure pushes the diaphragm/piston against the spring. The spring sets your boost pressure (5psi spring should be about 5 psi boost).

    Bov (need a pic, there are multiple styles).

    VSV our years are different, so I'm not sure on this.
     
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  14. Jul 3, 2023 at 9:52 AM
    Jon64l

    Jon64l Well-Known Member

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    Ok I mis read your WG paragraph. Yes that top port is for electronic boost controller to add pressure to increase boost.
     
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  15. Jul 3, 2023 at 10:14 AM
    unstpible

    unstpible Well-Known Member

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    Here's the BOV
    IMG_20230703_110808.jpg don't mind the tape it's just so I remember I need a Clamp that fits

    IMG_20230703_111348.jpg

    It's going to be a hot one ine the garage today, it's already getting toasty
     
  16. Jul 3, 2023 at 10:49 AM
    Jon64l

    Jon64l Well-Known Member

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    Good pics, that helps.

    Top of Bov goes to a port behind throttle plate. So when throttle is open and you are in boost, pressure will push on top of Bov diaphragm holding the valve closed. When throttle closes there will be vacuum in the plenum pulling the valve open to release the extra pressure in pipe.

    Vsv, that one went to the filter box originally.
     
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  17. Jul 3, 2023 at 11:18 AM
    Jon64l

    Jon64l Well-Known Member

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    Also start with no boost controller in the system. The less variables the better when starting out on a new project.
     
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  18. Jul 3, 2023 at 9:52 PM
    unstpible

    unstpible Well-Known Member

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    Popped the EFI and turned the key to prime the oil :fingerscrossed::fingerscrossed::fingerscrossed::fingerscrossed::fingerscrossed:

    Not seeing any oil leakage

    Still no down pipe on it but I wanna hear some noise.
     
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  19. Jul 3, 2023 at 10:29 PM
    unstpible

    unstpible Well-Known Member

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    I can't stop grinning and I haven't even moved it yet
     
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  20. Jul 4, 2023 at 1:49 AM
    unstpible

    unstpible Well-Known Member

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    I take it back on the oil leak but that's only because I didn't tap the T fitting like a good little boy. The tap I got doesn't fit in the handle I have and I got distracted with other things.

    This saw should make the exhaust pipe cuts much cleaner than the hand held dinky thing I use for the aluminum charge pipes but it's been sitting in a shipping container for a long time so it needed a little TLC.

    IMG_20230704_010904.jpg
     
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