Front brake dragging?

The pads are 50% used but don’t fully disengage from the disk. This causes a little squeak and grinding sound. Wheel Bering are new. Just disassembled and greased the brake parts and antisqueal on pads and still the pads won’t fully realize from the disk. The car is abs and the light for abs is on and has been on for years. Do I need new calipers or is it an abs thing.

 

The brake pads will have a slight contact with the rotors.

Not enough to build up heat a very fine line between being correct and the caliper hanging up.

The brand of pads might be the cause of the squeaks. If your having a metal on metal grinding noise that is never good. CV axles grinding on something or the inside of the rotor?

One of those up close and in person things .

 

You may need to inspect the caliper pistons for galling or other signs of wear. How many miles are on your calipers, and what condition are the rotors in?

Every 60K miles I disassemble my calipers and use some emery cloth to smooth out the surface of the pistons and the insides of the cylinders. Then I clean the caliper's mating surfaces, install new seals (from a caliper rebuilding kit) in them, and slap them back on the truck. Never had a problem with calipers in over 50 years.

 

With the caliper off it spins freely so noise is not from anything else touching. They probably have 100k atleast on them.

 

Grease your slide pins and contact points.

 

You sure? Have you inspected the backing plate and made sure it's not making contact with the disc with everything assembled?

 

I greased it all and it spins smoothly when the brake calipers are removed and when i spread the pads manually. Then when i turn on the truck and hit the brakes the disk wont become free spinning and thre is constant drag. Like more than just a little squeak, enough to make turning the disk without a wheel attached somewhat difficult. I dont think its an ABS issue. Even when i turn off the truck and check it in the morning the pads havent loosened. The slide pins and contact points are greased up. The pistons are not retracted from the pads or anything either.

Should I just go with the Tundra brake kit. Edit it was $365 for the kit in the link when I posted today on prime day 7/11 it is $397 lol.

$519 Power Stop Brake Kit For Toyota Tundra Sequoia Caliper Casting #13WL - Z36 Truck & Tow Front Calipers, Carbon-Fiber Ceramic Brake Pads, and Drilled and Slotted Brake Rotors Replacement, KC2324-36

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KT5E9IA?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

 

That's alot. If you are still having the problem you should rebuild them, or (if you're rich) just buy and install rebuilt or new calipers.

 

I think they actually have 200k on them

 

So I just checked the passenger side it is also dragging. Like dragging enough that if I spin the tire freely I can hear it and it only rotates maybe 1/2 turn freely after letting go. Both rub about the same, is this normal or do I need to get into the master cylinder adjustment. I have never touched the master cylinder or brake booster push rod. The back brakes seem normal and no dragging

 

That sounds like a normal amount of drag to me.

The pads never truly return to a state where they are completely away from the rotor. They will always have some contact with the rotor without the pedal applied.

Now.. If you are still on original OEM calipers, you should rebuild them, replace the rear wheel cylinders, and do a complete system flush (with a power bleeder, highly suggest Motiv). Or just do the Tundra Brake upgrade.

 

Yeah they are oem. I can for sure roll the window down and hear the brakes when going under 10 mph. Might hold off on the upgrade since I absolutely hate bleeding breaks

 

The Motiv Powerbleeder is a game changer. It's a pain to get sealed with the "universal" adaptor for the Toyota master cylinders (there are some expensive adaptors you can buy), but the rest of the process is so stupid easy that it's worth it. I wont ever (choose to) bleed brakes again without one.

 

Ok just an update I didn’t replace anything yet but I cracked the bleeder and fluid came out like normal. It didn’t seem to blast out from being pressurized. So I think the next move is new calipers. Any advice?

 

When you opened the bleeder how long had the truck been sitting??

With the pressure released how did the rotor spin ??

 

I drive the truck almost daily. With the pressure released wheel spin about the same. Maybe marginally better but felt pretty similar.

 

That's not how things work. The brakes are only "under pressure" when the pedal/brake booster are applied.

 

Right this was a test to see why they were dragging. I’m thinking it’s gotta be caliper related now and not brake booster or master cylinder or abs or clogged line. If it were those things I would have expected pressure release and reduced dragging.

 

So got into the brakes again to pull the calipers and put the new ones in and the outside pads were worn pretty bad compared to the inside. Prob 3 mm material on the outside and 6mm for the inside. So now im looking to replace the pads too.
Whats the opinion on replacing front brake hoses. Mine appear normal but Im about to do new calipers and bleed everything. Not sure if i should replace the from hoses too. Replacing runs the risk of an issue breaking the line that connects to the hose and creating a bigger problem. It appears normal from the outside. Brake fluid is dark and I will be flushing it. The brakes have been dragging a little that's what got me to change the calipers. The slide pins are pretty rusted.

 

Yes replace the pads - Akebono.
Yes replace the lines if they are original. You need a quality line wrench- don't try it with a cheap 10mm or even a cheap line wrench, they flex and strip the fittings. There are a couple shorter lines between the drops and the attachment at the frame rail for the front brake line. I HIGHLY suggest removing the line there rather than at the blind fitting behind the clip. Have something on hand to plug the lines so not to get air into the system.

If your calipers are OEM, and not in terrible shape, consider replacing the seals in them or sell them on the BST. I would rather have Factory tuned up calipers rather than part store remans any day.