1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

I couldn't get it past like 2500 or something real low initially. Crank sensor ended up having a metal shaving magnetized to it so the signal was really muffled. Replaced the sensor anyways. That solved most of my issues.
The ceiling was then like 5k. So I replaced the cam sensor and was able to up it to 6k. Trigger values are important to get dialed in though. Took a lot of trail and error at some points.

You don't want to increase the redline past 6k unless you upgrade perches and springs like @treyus30 said. You can though and it'll prob be fine, but not sure how much further you can push it and for how long before parts start packing their bags and heading out.
You could be the test pig for that data though for the sake of the community

 

Truck has been sitting out in the sun all day. Warmed it up, turned on O scope, and it got up to 4500 rpm. I dont really know what I'm looking for. There are just more square waves as rpm increases. The longer I sat and revved it, the lower the rpms would get until I was back around 3-3.5k. I wasn't just sitting there holding the throttle wide open, just start from idle and push rpm up until it wouldn't go. Definitely leaning towards new sensor now. Any ideas are welcomed.

 

Set it up so you can see the raw voltage pulse too, not just the resultant square wave. I'm assuming that a trigger error is caused when one or more square pulses are skipped when that's not expected (a break in the count)

See my build page

 

Thank you, I'll try that next time I'm around it.

 

I was at 6k with no errors but moved it down to 5700 rpm’s just to be safe

 

Did some more boost control tuning today, truck is happy as can be, it was all just getting it up on boost as fast as possible and man did we get this curve going well now. Today was a pretty hot day, even still it makes 6psi in first (never did that much before), and in 2nd and 3rd can hit 9psi beginning at 2800rpm. Did some work to expand the resolution of the boost control by messing with the frequency the solenoid is driven at. Now I have a larger gradient for control and the short term can correct for the daily differences way quicker all on its own. Had some moments while we were redefining the duty cycle map where it peaked into 12psi... that was the most fun accident I've had in a moment. Still keeping at 9psi with an allowance to 11psi before overboost compensation shuts the wastegate and if it creeps too fast hard cut engages at 12psi. I'll have a video of a pretty solid rip halfway through tuning as soon as my buddy gets it uploaded.

 

https://youtube.com/shorts/hOgIfVGl5ZM?feature=share4

 

Nice, now you need the marlin short shifter

 

Nah, I really dislike short shifters. I drove a truck with one recently and it would be a real hassle on the trail and obstacles. Too much extra leverage and the trans didn't seem to appreciate it at all at higher RPM.

 

Speaking of which, @garetcurry I have a short shifter kit for your truck if you want it, been in my garage for a long while. Was given to me and I am never going to use it.

 

Haha, don’t think it was a marlin then,
But ok

 

No it wasn't a Marlin, but I'm not willing to spend the $300+ to find out if it's any different either (just looked and the lever ratio between the two kits is the same). I don't mind my throws, it isn't a race truck.

 

@Treyrich @Speedytech7

I setup the O scope and took a gander. Definitely a weird square wave gap when it mis fires. Also I noticed Cam home didn't seem to line up with the Crank missing teeth. I figured I goofed up a tooth on the belt 1.5 years ago.

Took the cover off and all 3 timing marks are spot on. I then noticed the Cam home tooth is not at the sensor when crank is at TDC. So the signal seems correct to me. What am I missing here?

I cleaned the Cam sensor. Next I'll install the new Crank sensor while I'm here.

 

Pics of O scope.

 

No improvement with new crank sensor. Might have to adjust voltage trigger.

I think next I'll look for the cam/crank ground and split it.

 

Start with trigger voltages first.
Do you have the big 3 installed? motor ground and the ECU ground is quite important and could be affecting that as well.

 

Triggers are AC signals and independently grounded from the rest of the engine harness, you should be able to have zero engine grounds and still get an excellent trigger signal.

 

Jon send me your latest file and let me give it a look see real quick too.

 

I stand corrected

 

You may well be right on the 3RZ, I know the dizzy ones have some weird stuff going on.