Driving a Tacoma around the world

Finally have some good internet!

Republic of Congo and the Democratic Republic of Congo


One of the gorillas being re-habituated to be released in the wild at Lesio Louna reserve (rescued from a UK zoo)

As we approach the final leg of our West Africa journey, we continue to struggle a little with the realities of long term travel in hot countries. There are not many other travelers on the road, and everyone goes at their own pace. We notice that we tend to go faster, rarely staying in one place more than a night. For us this is partly about the heat, if we cannot find a cool place to stop, we just keep driving in our air conitioned truck (we know we are spoiled). We also know that we are not good at relaxing.

We are also challenged by finding opportunities for authentic interactions and conversations with the people who live here. We have no shared language which is a huge barrier. Most recently, we find that we are frequently approached with an extended hand, someone asking for money. We completely understand but it also shuts down communication for us. We are asked for money about 50 times a day. For us, where and when we choose to give is based on a true connection not a random demand. We realize that if we slowed down and stayed in a place longer we might find the opportunity to have those real conversations but we still don’t. Our fault. Always a balance!

Many of the other travelers we meet take regular extended breaks to go to a home base and re-charge. They are also not on the same 5-6 year round the world timeline. For some reason, we put pressure on ourselves to just keep going, with this awareness that we have the whole world to see. It is also not a forever project for us, there is a time when we look forward to once again settling down in one place and having more time with family and friends. Almost three years of full time travel and we are still grateful to be on this journey of a lifetime but also want to acknowledge the challenges. Life is not an endless series of amazing Instagram photos. There are times in between the spectacular moments when we acknowledge the difficulties and find a way to push through. There is also the fact that recent countries we have traveled through have even higher poverty levels so the intensity and disparity is increasing for us as we pass through in our expensive American vehicle.

The Republic of the Congo (Congo Brazzaville) and the Democratic Republic of Congo (Congo Kinshasha) were very different experiences for us, and also relatively quick.


Our route across the Republic of Congo, crossing the Cabinda section of Angola then across the Democratic Republic of Congo and into the main pairt of Angola

REPUBLIC OF CONGO

Hands down the highlight of the Republic of Congo was going to visit the gorillas at the Gorilla Project at Lesio Louna. But we also enjoyed scenic drives across the savannah.

Our border crossing took longer than expected so we found ourselves with dusk approaching looking for a safe place to stay. We asked the kind policeman who had just checked our passports and he gestured to his yard and welcomed us. Throughout West Africa almost all of our interactions with the local gendarmerie have been positive and we appreciate the sense of safety they provide for our travels. Our conversation was limited (that English/French language thing) but we had a hilarious time as the whole village came out to inspect the camper and poke their heads inside to take a look.


Our first night - camped at the village police station


We were surprised how much of the Republic of Congo was grassland, at least in the more southern region where we were traveling


Yellow containers seen everywhere throughout West Africa, used for carrying both gasoline and water. Always as many as possible attached to a vehicle.

The Republic of Congo gained independence from France in 1960. Like so many other young West African countries, following independence was a time of power struggle and civil war. It was a Marxist-Leninist state from 1969-1992. From 1979-1992, Denis Sassou Nguesso led the country, aligning with the Eastern Bloc. During this time education rates rose to 79% of children under 16. The industrial economy grew along with rising oil prices. Following the collapase of the Soviet Union and the end of its accompanying support, the Congo insitututed its first democratic mulit—party election in 1992. Pascal Lissouba became the first elected president in 1992 and was implementing economic reforms and working on a $100 million international economic support deal. However, Sassou continued to fight to regain power and civil war broke out in 1997. In 2002, with support from neighboring Angola, Sassou was re-instated as President in a one candidate voting process.

We look at the people our age and know they have lived through war and extreme poverty. Tens of thousands of people died and were displaced during the civil war. Now, the people of the Congo engage in an economy of village agriculture and crafts with the industrial sector still being dominated by the petroleum industry. Currently the education rate for children under 16 has dropped to 44%. Women in the country give birth to an average of 5 children, with the average over 6 in urban areas. The country is still troubled and people are struggling. We know we represent wealth and international power and understand the sometimes mixed reaction seeing us can generate. We have found if we start off with a smile and a “bonjour,” the welcome is returned in kind and there is a sense of opening a humanity gap, instead of walking by heads down as we would when passing strangers in the US. In general, we continue to be warmly and curiously received and we only wish we could communicate and give and share more.

Our visit to the Lesio Louna gorilla reserve was outstanding but had a complicated logistical beginning. We could not find any information online about setting up a visit or tour so decided to just drive into one of the camps and see what happened. We arrived at the intersection for the road out to the camp and saw some local people sitting in front of a small building. We managed to convey that we wanted to go to the reserve and received a thumbs up. Then around the corner appears a fellow traveler, Jose. It turns out we had been on the same travelers Whatsapp group sharing information and we finally were to meet in person! Jose had already attempted the drive out to the reserve on his motorcycle and turned back as the road deteriorated, he thought he took a wrong turn and he was by himself. So he was up for attempt #2 in a convoy with us. We put his panniers in our truck and set off following him across a sandy track.


Grass track to the Reserve


Jose giving us the thumbs up as we follow him


Approaching the reserve - thinking about “gorillas in the mist”

We ended up at Camp Albo where we were warmly welcomed and invited to camp for free (it was about $75 each for the actual gorilla visit which involved a boat trip from the camp plus a park fee of $25 each).

We had a great time swapping travel stories with Jose in the evening over a shared meal, hearing about his plans to start a motorcycle tourism company in his home country of Columbia. Then the next morning, off to see the gorillas. The Gorilla Project at this site was currently caring for three adult male and one adolescent orphan gorillas. The gorillas are kept in spacious island enclosures, visited by boat and gradually weaned off feeding and care until they are released by underground tunnel to a nearby national park which is home to over 50 free released gorillas.


Incredible experience looking into the eyes of these magnificent animals





Sitting in the boat with the caretakers watching the gorilla come in to be fed


This one has a relationship with one of the caretakers


Second gorilla - each face so expressive


We think we found the infamous Big Foot - far away from its California home


Third gorilla giving us his best pose


The orphan - from the wild, actually teaching the adult male it lives with (which was rescued from a zoo) how to find food


The next day we head out following Jose again

As Jose’s travel companion was dealing with a broken down motorcycle we headed into the capital, Brazzaville together and found a hotel.


Modest Brazzaville accommodations


Brazzaville sits right on the mighty Congo river, looking out at Kinshasha in the Democratic Republic of Congo on the other side.

We took care of business in Brazzaville (groceries, ATM, awesome bread), had a rare meal out and hit the road again. The city was a classic mix of roadside African market and contemporary restaurants. But as usual, big cities are not our thing so we soaked it up and left.


The huge loaded down trucks never cease to amaze us, but we are also always a little frightened for the intrepid passengers riding on top of the loads.


Most of the population of the Republic of Congo lives in the southern, urban areas leaving wide empty expanses.


But still plenty of hills


And once again we are finding solitary wild camping spots


Truly goofy picture of windswept Dawn at the gorge

The second biggest city in the Republic of Congo, Pointe-Noire was a pass through for us. Although we did detour up north to see the famous Diosso Gorge.


The red clay formations reminded us of Bryce Canyon in the US


Enjoying the view along the road


Camped on the grounds of a hotel. Tucked into the shade as much as we can.



Access to walking here was really the best feature

Our last nights in the Republic of Congo we spent camped along the coast south of Pointe-Noire. We found a hotel that welcomed campers and used their grounds in exchange for agreeing to purchase dinner in their restaurant (it was excellent and ate early as we were the only customers and didn’t want them to wait for us). We are used to being the only overnighters at the facility, with just a few people stopping by for the beach and pool during the day.


An oasis of coolness

Although normally we could care less about a pool, we have found that dunking ourselves in tepid water repreatedly is a great antidote for overheating. We would always prefer to wild camp, but have used more hotel and restaurant grounds than normal recently. On the day we left we woke up early refreshed and both nervous about and interested in what the next couple of days would bring.


DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC OF CONGO (DRC)

From the moment we started planning to drive West Africa, the DRC crossing surfaced as having the reputation of the riskiest undertaking for travelers. We read about people meeting at the border and “convoying up” to drive across quickly and with mutual support. After five months of driving around West Africa on our own we had learned to take these warnings with a grain of salt. But, similar to Nigeria, the years of media images and reports were still forefront in our minds and we felt strangely nervous.

The DRC is among the five poorest nations in the world. In 2022, nearly 62%, or 60 million people, lived on less than $2 per day. Although the country is rich in minerals and resources, most people in DRC have not benefited from this wealth. A recent history of conflict and political instability, have created an ongoing humanitarian crisis. The first and second Congo wars started in 1997 and 1998 and despite a peace treaty in 2003, violence continues. Estimates are that over 5 million people have died as a result of the wars and the accompanying disease and malnutrition. Millions more have been displaced.

In 62 years of independence, DRC did not experience its first peaceful transition of power until January 2019. Effectively this means only the past four years have been relatively peaceful. This country has seen a lot of tragedy.

So in the end we did another dash across. It did not feel like a place for tourists to linger. Elements of crossing the borders were stressful, in Matadi, we experienced the worst traffic we had ever been in and the requests for money were even more insistent than anywhere else. (In our hotel, the security guard said “give me money” everytime we saw him, clearly one of his few English phrases. To be fair, he smiled too but it was still unnerving.)


Approaching the border crossing from Republic of Congo to Cabinda

So in two days and two nights we drove from the Republic of Congo into the area of Angola known as Cabinda (the geography here is very strange with strips of countries going inside and around each other to the coast), spent the night in Cabinda at a hotel, then woke up early to hopefully cross the DRC in one day. We should have known better.

The border crossings were tedious and slow - many officials to see and have our information laboriously recorded by hand into huge log books. By the time we exited Angola and entered DRC it was already mid day. So we set off to see how far we could go. The roads started as dirt but then became paved and clear. It was a welcome relief after some tough going in the Republic of Congo. But pot holes slowed us down, trucks moving at 5 km per hour up hills slowed us down . . . The only thing that we were expecting that did not slow us down was military and police check points, we were just waved or even saluted through with a smile.


The road immediately entering the DRC from Angola. Unfortunately garbage is an issue throughout most of West Africa. People burn or bury it but plastic seems to stick around.


The roads still dry luckily


We were only half way across the DRC as late afternoon approached so planned to spend a night in Matadi. We picked a guest house that seemed reasonable and planned to check in around 4pm. As soon as we hit the outskirts of town traffic came to a screaming halt. We managed to go two kms in two hours. We reached the guest house at 6pm only to find it closed. It was one of our more stressful travel moments. We were tired, it was dark, people were crowded around the car gesturing to us to follow them but we didn’t speak the language and just wanted to hide. Very difficult in the biggest private vehicle on the street. We found option number two and drove another km in another hour (seriously the very worst traffic ever) and arrived. They had a room! Phew.


More of the yellow containers, the beginning of loading up


And eventually the loads typically look this, beautiful in their artistry


Crossing the Congo river in the DRC


Approaching Matadi, beautifully spread out across the hill but with the worst traffic on the planet


And then our final border crossing for a while, exiting the DRC to Angola

Some countries stand out in our minds and it is the ones we are able to do justice when the confluence of time, geography and connections with people come together. In West Africa to date, Morocco and Benin are highlights. Other countries like Cameroun, Gabon and the Congos we feel like we barely scratched the surface. We are happy to make it through this mental milestone though and are looking forward to some high mountain breezes in Angola.

Thank you for reading!

 

You two should write a book about your adventure! Great to follow you along the journey.

 

wow thank you for sharing the candid experience! amazing scenery and people. but so appreciative to hear what it is actually like, and not just the glamorous "instagram worthy" stuff like you mentioned safe happy travels

 

We very well may. It’s definitely been an adventure!

 

Never tire of looking at gorillas! Amazing to see them up so close in a wild setting.

I hope your current Angola adventures are going really well. It is a large, and fascinating country.

Back in the 1980s, I worked winters as a carpenter. On one job, my partner who is Portugese told me how he worked as a mercenary soldier in Angola during the civil war there. Not sure how someone takes that job. He had 3 bullet hole scars in his stomach. He was a really great partner and married with kids when I worked with him. Time changes us.

 

Angola was a big change from the previous countries, no police stops, sane drivers, cool nights, and wonderfully varied country. The north is jungle, the south is extreme desert, and the west is beautiful beaches.

But Angola was a flashpoint/victim of the cold war. USSR & Cuba vs South Africa & the West. It sure felt that the people have moved on.

Namibia’s next!

 

I am in awe of this fascinating thread! Thank you, for sharing. Safe travels!

 

Angola


Calandula Falls, second largest waterfall on the continent, after Victoria Falls.

Angola felt like a refreshing and invigorating mountain breeze cooling our travel weary bodies. After months of battling the heat, Angola’s mountainous and coastal regions offered welcome relief from the humidity we had been experiencing. The country quickly became a West Africa highlight for us with its geological diversity and expansive remote areas which made wild camping easy. We slowed down and spent three weeks exploring vast desert landscapes, remote rain forest roads and magical rock formations.

We apologize upfront for the number of road photos in this blog page(!), but our experiences in Angola were centered around the amazing drives and scenery. We found the people to be culturally more reserved and introverted, not as eager to interact. We were facing a significant language barrier as our Portugese is limited to “bom dia” and “obrigado.” So we did not have as many opportunities to learn about the culture from the people. Tourism infrastructure was limited and haphazard.


Our 2000 mile route through Angola

The recent civil war in Angola (1975-2002) devastated the social fabric for the people, destroyed basic infrastructure and decimated the economy. A common story in the West African region, the war started when the foughtcountry to become independent from its colonizer, Portugal in 1975. Subsequently, diverse political philosophies, aligned along tribal lines, began fighting for power in the young nation. In a simplified version of events, the Soviet Union backed communist party MPLA (People’s Movement for the Liberation of Angola) fought against the US backed democratic party UNITA (National Union for the Total Independence of Angola) with Cuba and South Africa also aligning themselves in the fight on their respective sides of the Cold War divide. In the end the MPLA won but the cost to the country was huge.

A third of the poplaution - over four million people, were displaced. The country was riddled with live land mines and people lacked access to medical care and clean water. There was a massive exodus from rural areas to the urban centers as people sought basic humanitarian resources. This movement changed the cultural landscape as people were forced to abandon their rural villages and close knit communities. The economy has historically been tied to the oil industry so recent volatility in the market has left the country with high levels of poverty. The current national poverty rate in urban areas is 41% and an unimaginable 57% in rurual areas. Growth in agriculture, construction and services are starting to fill the gap but most of the jobs are informal and youth unemployment exceeds 50%.

All this to say the country is still in recovery mode. The MPLA won the most recent elections in 2022 with a slim margin of 51%. People are working to just get by and we are not surprised that they mostly left us alone. We are always very aware of our position as travelers in nations which are struggling. We are honored to explore what we can access and always try to respect peoples’ situations and needs and above all not cause any harm and try to do some good in small ways.


Dirt road after entering Angola from the Democratic Republic of Congo


Although less people were approaching us to take pictures with them, these two gregarious gas station attendants were the exception


Our first night in Angola we met up with fellow overlanders 4x4 Electric, driving down the west coast from the Netherlands in an electric car

Our entry into the main part of Angola was uneventful - just another border crossing, working through the process. We had taken care of the visas and vehicle permit in Cabinda when we were crossing the Democratic Republic of Congo. We met up with some fellow overlanders for an evening at an informal beach camp and then made our way to Luanda, the biggest city in Angola.


At Kakuako Lodge, swapping stories with fellow travelers Alex and Sebastian from France, riding motorcycles and Renske and Maarten, 4x4 Electric, driving a electric car around the continent.

We were welcomed at Kakuako Lodge, an overlanding camp on the outskirts of Luanda and had another great evening sharing travel adventures. We were all on a journey from Europe down to Cape Town and beyond.

As we have said, big cities generally make us grumpy so we focused on taking care of business (ATM, groceries, purchasing specialized oil for the next oil change for the truck and a new truck battery). Once again we were grateful for having a Toyota and being able to show up at the dealer in town and access what we needed. We were trying to delay buying a battery until South Africa, but after multiple mornings needing to jump start it we made us decide to just take care of it.


Toyota dealership in Luanda - new battery and oil purchase. Wonderful staff wanted a picture with us.

One night and two days of errands was enough for us so we started down the coast, first stopping at the beautiful Miradouro da Lua - “viewpoint of the moon,” which lived up to it’s name. It was a gorgeous canyon with formations that reminded us of Bryce Canyon back home.


Requisite selfie at Miradouro da Lua

As usual we opted to use iOverlander in Angola to find camping spots. We always like the security of knowing that others have camped in a place trouble free and it is a great platform for sharing information among fellow travelers. Since COVID had shut down travel for a time period, there is a big gap in information - not many entries for a couple of years. Many times we would take a leap of faith and camp in a place that no one had used in three years. But we saw an entry for a nearby wild camping spot that someone had used in 2023 and loved and decided to go for it.


The track into the camping spot, we were not sure what to expect


And then, wow, one of our favorite spots. On the bluff with the view of the red rock canyons.


Really hard to beat this view

After our bluff top paradise, we decided to check out Angola’s renowned national park and try to see some animals. Information was hard to come by, and we were not sure what we would find. The park was established in 1957 but was affected by wide scale poaching during the civil war. An Angolan we spoke to said that “When people are starving and there is a free butchery in your backyard, what do you expect?” Totally understandable. In 2001 there was a “Noah’s Ark” project to re-populate the park but with mixed success. So we decided to just go and see.


Entrance to Quicama National Park

The entrance showed the disrepair that we would find. The guard told us we could drive through the park for the day but would have to leave by night. We paid a nominal fee and set off. It was a beautiful drive. Our animal sitings were limited to a few monkeys, a monitor lizard and some birds, but it was still an interesting adventure.


The roads were a little rough


And some not driveable, we turned back on this one


The lodge in the park was closed, tourist infrastructure slowly falling into disrepair

We hope that efforts to continue to revive the park will pay off. It seems like an important opportunity to bring some tourism dollars into the area and provide some employment. Along the way in Angola we did see some cottage industry tourism businesses springing up and were happy to support it,


Villages inside the park, homes of wood and clay


The beautiful valley of Quicama National Park

We left the park before 3pm, as required and hit the road. Our “wild” camping spot for the night was an abandoned quarry left over from road building. We have actually found these sites to be one of our favorites, at least for an easy one night stop over. They are always level, hidden from the main road and no one feels ownership. Other overland travelers feel comfortable approaching the chief of a local village and asking for permission to sleep on nearby land. We are just too chicken hearted to do that so always try to find something which is more publically owned.


Scenic abandoned quarry site, great spot for the night


Approaching Pungo Andongo, monolithic black rock formations that rise majestically out of the surrounding savannah.


Parking on the rock at Pungo Andongo

We had a great exploration at Pungo Andongo, the rocks are extraordinary. We had an odd experience with the nearby village though. It is understandable that villages next to these amazing sites that attract tourists find a way to get some money from it. We are supportive in theory but sometimes as things are starting up they are not implemented in a way that is comfortable for us. We were heading for a trail that was accessed through a village. There was a home made barrier erected and some clearly drunk men in non-official police gear stopped us and started asking for paperwork. They didn’t really know what they were asking for and didn’t recognize the copies of documents we gave them. The whole thing felt weird enough that we just turned around and left.

The next stop was an example of successful tourism at work, but unfortunately we were the only ones there to enjoy it. Calandula Falls were so beautiful and we had the opportunity to camp on the grounds of the lodge across from the falls. It was extraordinary to sit on our own and watch the mesmerizing water, and to be camped with a view from our window. The lodge had a set price for camping there ($10) and the friendly staff helped us fill our fresh water tank.


Our private viewing of Calandula Falls.The earth has music for those who listen.


View from our camper in the parking area


Next morning, time to go watch the falls again, but first Dawn’s ritual of coffee in bed. Some things are sacred.

With our water tank filled with fresh water, we said goodbye to the cool mist on our faces and set off across country again. A brief note on water, we have found it readily accessible across West Africa. Sometimes we fill the tank at a campground or gas station. We always purify it through our UV system just in case. This allows us to refill our Hydroflask water bottles daily with clean drinking water. We are happy to say that in six months in Africa we have never suffered any intestinal problems from bad food or water, but we have been careful. We treat our own water and mostly cook our own food.


Beautiful villages, always made of the local clay with thatch or tin rooves. Inland, the houses were red, next to the coast more grey.


Another road shot! So beautiful.


Yup, another abandoned quarry site for an overnight


So green, the scenery out our truck windows was always varied

Our next stop was back on the coast, the port town of Lobito. We had heard that the architecture there, handed down from the Portugese colonization era, was beautiful. We opted to stay out in the old area, known as “the spit,” which accurately describes the geography. We found a beach side restaurant which allowed us to camp for free in agreement that we would eat dinner there.


Andy eyeing the biggest hamburger he has ever seen, Alfa Bar, Lobito


Camped on the beach at Alfa Bar, Lobito, along with a couple of Swiss landrovers


Portugese architecture in Lobito

The architecture was appealing in Lobito but it was a weird experience walking by the homes out on the spit. As a contrast to other cities, no one was walking the streets. Store fronts were closed. The only people we saw were regularly spaced private security guards. The neighborhoods felt like ghost towns. We assumed that these well kept homes along the coast were probably summer homes for wealthy urban people and rarely actually lived in. The area did not appeal to us, it felt cold and dead, missing the vibrant community life we were used to in West African towns.


Central square in Lobito with colonial Portugese architecture

After Lobito, we headed to another geological phenomenon, Tundavala gap. An enormous fissure with spectacular views, we were thinking about camping in one of the wild spots nearby.


View point at Tundavala Gap


Dawn is on top of the world

But on further review on our favorite resource, iOverlander, we read that there were problems in the area with armed daytime robberies against travelers. We arrived at the main parking area for the view points and parked with the security guards stationed there to protect tourists. It was hard to imagine armed robbers lurking around, but we read of someone setting up camp and being robbed in the mid afternoon just a few months before. We suppose that in an area close to a major urban center (Lubango) which attracted so many tourists with cash, phones, computers etc it would be easy for some local bad actors to prey on them. We decided to drive on.


We found our own safe spot in the bush, far away from people


Driving the beautiful Serra da Leba pass, twisting down rocky cliff edges


We crossed the gorgeous Serra de Leba pass and made our way out to the west coast again.


The terrain changes to desert quickly

Because unlike big cities, we do not get tired of amazing natural sites, our next destination was Lago da Arco, natural arch formations around a dry lake.


Road out to Lago da Arco, just some faint marks in the ground


The journey out to the arches was spectacular


Dawn wtih our guide to the arches

The village near the arches had figured out tourism. As you approached, you were stopped at the first building and with friendly gestures asked to park and follow a guide. We had read what the fee was (a few dollars a person) so handed over the cash and set out. We had no shared language but our guide still managed to point out and communicate about the fossils and other interesting features along the way.








Dry lake bed at Lago da Arco

For our final week in Angola, we decided to take on an off road challenge. We stocked up with food, water and gas in the town of Namibe and set off across the Namibe desert and down through Iona National Park. It was an extraordinary four days, covering 650 kilometers. We never saw another traveler, crossed through some of the most remote and scenic desert landscapes and passed through traditional Himba villages. The Himba tribal people live in southern Angola and northern Namibia. Their villages with round homes are typically protected by boma brambles. The women use braiding and red clay to create the most fabulous hair styles, complete with jewelry from natural sources. We wish we could have taken pictures but did not want to be rude.


The beginning of the track, just sand


Traditional desert village


Beautiful sandy cliffs


Sometimes the track was gravel (the story of the week , air up, air down)


The most remote place we had been


In some areas the only green were these odd wilting cactus plants which always look like they are dying, known as Welwitschia, they are only found in this region. Apparently these ancient plans only grow two leaves which just keep on growing - for up to 2,000 years.


Wild camping next to the rocks


Sunrise clouds in the desert


Ever changing scenery and road


And one water crossing!


Extraordinary rock, rising like vertical crystals out of the sand


Many steep dry river bed crossings


After a few days things start to green up


Wild camping pretty much anywhere you want to stop


Traditional Himba round building structure


We can tell we are starting to exit the desert


Had been thinking the roads would start to get better but they just changed from sand to rock


Himba village

Well it was a fascinating four days, we are glad we did it even though there were times after a few hours of bumping along at 10mph we wondered at our sanity. We were also worried about running out of fuel. We had used one of our Rotopaks, still had one to spare but didn’t want to get down to our last liter so stopped in the first town with infrastructure we had seen in a while to see what we could find. Andy went into a small store front and asked about petrol. An enterprising young man in the store who spoke some English said he would be right back. Five minutes later he pulled up on a motorbike with his friend and some bottles of gas. We were set.


Our first time using bottled gas. It worked great. We filtered it.


Exiting the border from Angola to Namibia

Well, we made it across Angola and hit another milestone in our journey, officially saying goodbye to West Africa. It was the journey of a lifetime and in six months we saw and learned so much. Even through the challenges, we would not take back a moment of it. Thank you for reading and coming along with us.

 

wow spectacular! great photos and narration as always you say enough to convey the sense of the place and keep it so entertaining all the while!

 

Great stuff as always!

My favorite photo, I got some good hearted chuckles out of this one and the verbiage with it.

Your adventures are great motivation for me to keep on getting out and exploring as much as is possible.

Same for much of the stuff in the Camping and Off roading threads on tacomaworld. Motivates me to get out into nature a couple times per week.

For me, it has nothing to do with my Tacoma, or its capabilities “off roading”. My vehicles are just a means of accessing the areas I want to explore in wild nature. I don’t travel as others do, around the world or travelling on planes on vacation, but there are no shortage of remote spots in BC to keep me searching.

I have for 40 years explored BC on several hundred trips, but I have barely scratched the surface. I see from your posts that you try to avoid the cities and crowds. Yup. One other person on a lake or even driving in the same area completely breaks the spell for me.

Your posts are great motivation to not sit on my duff. Keep em’ coming!

 

Thanks Pat! We look forward to exploring BC in a few years when we get back. Be happy to connect up

 

That would be great. Let me know anytime you come up to BC.

 

Fantastic posts as always!

 

Been following along on Instagram. @knivesbymark Its so cool to see everything you two have been doing.

 

Thanks Mark. BTW, I enjoy the beauty you create with your knives

 

@Round the world what an amazing journey! I read through the entire thread as I couldn’t help myself. I’ve always been intrigued by traveling the world and have been lucky enough to do so on a limited basis, since the mortgage won’t pay itself. My wife and I have been to a couple of places you listed, such as Sevilla Spain and Tangier Morocco and we loved seeing both.

One location I don’t see on your itinerary that I would love for you to consider is New Zealand. I believe it would be an enjoyable experience, as you seem to really love National Parks, beautiful scenery, and building relationships as you travel. My wife and I found that and more when we visited. New Zealand has a wonderful camper van culture that you could tap into and really enjoy. There are many trails and tours as outdoor recreation is a huge draw for tourism. The only way I can describe New Zealand to those who have not been is to imagine taking all the beautiful places of the US and Canada and cram them into the state of California. Around every corner is another beautiful scene or amazing location to explore. We met with many different people there, nationals and tourists, and loved getting to know the areas and history behind them. I can understand keeping to your schedule and your budget, but it really should be considered.

Thank you for posting your adventure, as I plan to continue reading on. Be safe and enjoy the journey!

 

Namibia

Morning lion siting in Etosha National Park

After traveling in Africa for six months with very little wildlife viewing, we were hungry to see animals. Namibia definitely delivered. Etosha National Park was a corunucopia of wildlife.

But it was also a shock to our systems to all of a sudden be surrounded by tourists in rented trucks everywhere we went. The towns had a modern feel with restuarants, cafes, paved streets and street lights. Initially, access to huge, modern European style markets was exciting but soon the excitement was replaced with a sense of remorse. All of a sudden we missed the crazy chaos of the community markets in West Africa, the warmth the curiosity and the friendliness. The big air conditioned markets with their shrink wrapped products felt easy but they were missing life and character. A sad example of the grass is always greener.

We did appreciate the ease of traveling in Namibia as a visitor though. Tourist infrastructure was well developed, information was easy to find and there were plenty of camping facilities. We were also relieved to once again be able to speak English and be able to communicate easily.


Our two week route through Namibia

A new nation, Namibia obtained independence in 1989 after decades of armed struggle, first with German occupiers then with South African control. The country was established with a constitution establishing a multi party system and a comprehensive Bill of Rights. Leadership under the first elected president, Sam Nujoma who had lead the fight for independence was focused on reconciliation from the years of war and on reconstruction.

Compared to many of it’s neighbors, Namibia is politically stable and economically prosperous. It struggles with issues of wealth disparity, but the growth in the diamond, uranium and tourism sectors are providing jobs. One out of five people works in the tourism industry. The country has one of the lowest population densities in Africa and is the people are young - with over 60% being under 25 years old.

We crossed into Namibia from Angola at a small border crossing and our first experience was being unable to pay the required road tax as power was out, no credit card processing, and we had no Namibian cash. No problem, we were allowed to go with a promise we would return and pay the next day. The regional power outage meant no access to gas (we were almost empty), cash or sim cards for phone service but we found a place to camp and wait it out. The Kunene River region was a great transition to what was coming at Etosha, as we were re-rentering civilization after days in the Namibe desert. Women in traditional Himba dress (hair designed and coated in red ochre with natural clothing made from animal skins, typically bare on top with beautifully designed jewelry) walked the dusty village streets alongside women in European fashions.


Early morning entrance into Etosha National Park

Eventually the power came on, we were able to access cash, buy gas, groceries and sim cards and we were on our way. We had booked campsites in advance in Etosha. Not cheap at $42 for a site for two people, but the location was worth the cost. It was a little unnerving though, campgrounds closed access from sunset to sunrise with campers enclosed in an electrified compound with a gate. We understood why when we listened to the lions roraring and hunting all night, but we did miss the sense of adventure. We remembered being in Botswana national parks and running the risk of encountering an elephant on the way to the restroom in the evening. Even though we could not explore at night, all of the campgrounds had large water holes at with viewing areas at the edge of the camp so that you could still view evening wildlife activity.

We spent four nights in the park, working our way from east to west. At each camp, we would wake up early, head out at sunrise as soon as the campground gates opened, (Dawn with coffee in hand) and make our way to a watering hole and sit and watch the comings and goings. Then back to the campground to relax, take showers then set off on a late afternoon drive to watch the evening parade. It never got old, the elephants bathing with their babies, the grumpy zebras snapping at each other and the majestic lions ambling slowly in to drink before or after a night of hunting.


Namutoni Camp, Etosha National Park

Our first camp, Namutoni ended up being our favorite. More low key in terms of facilities, the sites were spread out on the grass with trees for shade. It was the closest to really active watering holes and during the time we were there we saw several lion prides. It also had amazing water pressure in the shower facilities! The only drawback was that it’s onsite watering hole was small and did not seem to attract much when we were there (May).





So thrilled to find rhinos on our very first drive in Etosha



There is just something so exciting about the first time you see an elephant pop out of the bush


The poor giraffes - so awkward for them to drink
















One morning we were sitting at an empty watering hole as the solitary watchers, waiting to see if anything would happen and a leopard slunk out of the bushes to drink. All of a sudden it jumped up and ran off, right in front of our truck. We wondered what made it take off so abruptly.


And then the lions arrived and we realized why.

Our second camp was Halali. Bigger than Namutoni, but still smaller than Okaukuejo, it had an awesome nighttime watering hole. We were getting into the rhythm with the morning and evening drives and relaxing into sitting by a hole just to see what would appear.


Kudu


Zebra and impalas


Zebra fight - a common occurrence


Oryx


Spent a delightful hour watching elephant moms and babies bathing


Ostrich


Wildebeast


Halali Camp - sandy spots


Sun goes down on the Halali Watering Hole


And here come the rhinos! Hyenas too - our first sighting, but the pictures of them did not turn out



Our last camp was Okaukuejo, definitely the most developed with a large pool and restaurant and tourist shops. Buses came and went and the camping area was more densely populated (with only one toilet building). It had a large active evening watering hole - more rhinos!


Typical mid day at a watering hole - not too much going on


Sun goes down on the Okaukuejo Watering Hole

Feeling satiated with animal sitings (only one hold out we have not been able to check off so far - a cheetah) we left Etosha to seek out some cultural experiences. Next stop, rock carvings at Twyfelfontein.


Most famous carving at Twyfelfontein,

An example of tourism done well, visitors are greeted at a simple museum site and gathered into small groups for a 45 minute guided walk. The site has been inhabited for 6,000 years, used as a site of worship first by hunter-gatherers and later by Khoikhoi herders. It is estimated that there are over 2,500 rock carvings, one of the largest concentrations of rock petroglyphs in Africa.


The valley at Tyfelfonstein

From the inland desert we made our way to the coast, exploring some side roads along the way. Beautiful and varied empty desert scenery and glorious weather made for fun driving.


Exploring some back roads in the desert






Side road to our wild camping spot for the night


Beautiful site - we saw mountain zebras in the distance

We were thrilled with the site we found until we were visited in the morning by some local tour operators with a truck full of tourists. They were kind but informed us that we were not actually allowed to camp there and that we were at risk by being robbed by local villagers. We were not sure what to make of this, not having seen a soul for miles but thanked them for their concern and packed up.

Our next stop was the Skeleton Coast National Park which although bleakly beautiful did not offer up the miles of derelict shipwrecks we were expecting. On the upside, most of them have been cleaned up and the wrecks have not been recurring. You must enter and exit the park in the same day, driving through does not cost anything.


Main (impregnated salt)) road through Skeleton Coast National Park


We never saw the coastal lions





Stopping for a walk at one of the few remaining wrecks

We had a pleasant and scenic day, even wore our coats for the first time in months. We exited the park and decided to go visit the seals at Cape Cross Seal Reserve. We have never seen so many seals in our lives. The smell was off the charts, but it was still fun to watch their antics.


Cape Cross Seal reserve


Just us and the seals

Before we started smelling like 10,000’s of seals, we drove down the coast to a great wild camping spot north of Swakopmund.


Coastal wild camping spot outside of Swakopmund


Visited by jackals in the night


They stole our camp shoes but Andy found them in the dunes. Dawn’s a little worse for wear with the tongue chewed off, but still wearable

We took care of some business in Swakopmund, including having a tire repaired (slow leak from a ripped side wall from the Angolan desert drive), stocking up on groceries and gas. The town felt like a standard tourist town, lots of amenities, shopping and tourism operators but didn’t feel like a place we wanted to stay long.

We headed inland to the tallest peaks in Namibia at Brandberg National Monument.


Road in to Brandberg, highest peaks in Namibia


The story of Andy’s life in Namibia, air up, air down, endless varieties of softness of sand and corrugation

Another well run tourist site, we were greeted at the entrance and assigned a guide to walk us in to see the famous White Lady rock paintings. Our guide was from Damaraland, a native San who spoke the Khoisan language. He demonstrated for us the famous clicking language -it sounded like music. He explained that recent studies theorize that the ancient language was likely the first form of oral language with some of the clicking sounds gradually being replaced by words over time.


Famous “White Lady” rock painting (actually a man)


Hiking with our guide

More glorious sunny weather finished with cultural sites for the time being and we were off to Spitzkoppe, renowned rock formations rising out of the desert.


The bumpy road to Spitzkoppe





Wandering around the Spitzkoppe formations

And then back to the coast. We were happy to have the guides and information at the cultural sites, but we were hoping we could find our way into Sandwich Harbor on our own. Amazing dunes on the coast, numerous four by four operators offered to drive people in for a hefty fee. We thought it would be more funt to go on our own, but we had heard of challenges, including vehicles being swept away by incoming tides.


Drizzly walk along the coast in Walvis Bay



Walvis Bay felt like one of the most touristy spots we had been in a long time. Outdoor operators and expensive cafes lined streets along with B&Bs and guest houses. We went for a walk, watched the coastal flamingos then decided to see if we could drive to Sandwich Harbor. It was a big “no.”


The point we turned back on the road to Sandwich Harbor, we are just too heavy.

So we left the coast to explore our last two iconic natural wonders in Namibia.


Despite its decrepit state, one of the most photographed signs in Namibia

Sossusvlei is one of Namibia's most spectacular landmarks with its red dunes and the white salt pan at Deadvlei.


Completely unedited phone photo - the scenery was extraordinary


It was hot - we were tempted to share the shade with the oryx


Another area with a requirement to exit by sunset, we left Sossusvlei to find some wild camping. Spending many nights in camp grounds with people around was getting to us and were looking for some privacy and space. We found our spot at Brukkaros Crater, solitary hiking and camping with a view for miles.


Hiking at Brukkaros Crater


Friendly hyrax along the trail


Inside the volcanic crater


Preparing the evening meal, Dawn was thrilled to find lots of fresh vegetables at the market in Walvis Bay. Andy not so much.


Attempting to tuck out of the wind by an abandoned structure

And then our final stop in this engaging, young country - Fish River Canyon. Another site with no access out of daylight hours (unless you are doing a multi-day arduous through hike) we drove in and wandered along the canyon’s edge.


Parked at the edge of Fish River Canyon


Impressive as the sun goes down


Sun goes down on our final camp in Namibia

Namibia was an easy break after six months of much more challenging travel down the West Coast. It reminded us of our trip to Botswana years before when we had been one of the many tourists in rented trucks with a roof top tent. That first trip to Africa was when we realized how easy and fun it was to travel overland.

But we were still thinking back with wonder on the adventure of being the only tourists for 100’s of miles as a contrast to Namibia where we were among the many. There are benefits to both and we are lucky to have experienced many aspects of overlanding in Africa. Next up, South Africa, and looking forward to a break at home in Oregon with family and friends while the truck gets some much needed maintenance in a Cape Town offroad shop. Thank you for reading and coming along on this journey with us!

 

Thank you for your kind words and thoughts. We are indeed fortunate and feel that sharing our adventures is the least we can do.

Yes, our route is definitely flexible like no longer heading thru the African countries of Burkina Faso and Mali. Conversely, we have added Iceland in spite of the super high costs of getting here and loved it. Similarly New Zealand is a country that is extremely expensive to get to with our vehicle but as we get closer may may well make a side trip there. Stay tuned!

 

X2