Is the trailer hitch an OK jacking point?

Just for changing tires. Easier than crawling under truck for rear diff or axle. Thanks

 

Definitely no

 

I’m not sure but I wouldn’t, seems like the risk exceeds the reward to no end.

 

Thanks

 

It’s designed for a pulling force, and to have about a 400-500# load, but that force gets multiple by up and down movement (not an engineer).
I wouldn’t make a regular habit of it, but I’m guessing it’ll be fine in a pinch. Sliding the jack another few feet isn’t an issue for me; risks and rewards

 

I would use the hitch as a lifting point, in a pinch. Or even not in a pinch.

Am an engineer, and I see absolutely nothing wrong with using the hitch to lift the truck. It's connection to the frame has all of the characteristics required to handle the forces imparted by loading it vertically.

Edit: When I originally posted this, the OP was more detailed than it is now. It didn't even mention just lifting to change the tires. I still agree that it's strong enough to use, but I would not use it just to change tires. Get under the truck and use the axle and jack stands. Be safe, always.

 

I've done it several times, mainly to unload the rear leafs to lube them. I just put some wooden blocks on the jack and jack it up no problem. That thing is a hefty square tube, and mounts directly to the frame. Never had a problem.

 

So much easier jacking the outboard axle to just change a tire. Only need to lift that axle an inch.

Jacking the hitch you need to stroke that jack quite a ways up until your leafs pickup the axle, and by then both rear wheels are off the ground an you are teetering on the jack.

 

Loads of scenarios where you need the axle to be unloaded/not supporting the vehicle.

I use my sliders for the jack stands, after jacking under the third member, but some folks don't have sliders.

I do agree that you are dealing with some serious teetering, and that should definitely be addressed. I personally wouldn't work under the truck with just a hitch support (or any single support, be safe).

 

I'll disagree, but for reasons that are entirely different than structural. It is not as stable of a lifting point.

For changing tire purposes, its best to lift from the unsprung parts - low to the ground, and doesn't have to lift as far. One tire up / three on the ground is preferable unless you are rotating, especially if you need to lift one of the rears. I would lift from the diff only after the front end is physically immobilized with chocks and/or stands. I would definitely not lift from the hitch - that amount of height on an floor jack will be relatively very easy to knock over when tugging on the tires or spinning lugs.

Structure really doesn't factor - its simply an unsafe practice in my book.

 

Agreed completely (I mentioned this in a post I typed while you were probably typing this).

It is way too unstable for me. But as far it being capable of lifting the truck, it's fine.

 

Depends on the jack. The hitch is pretty high up, and you have to raise it another half a foot or more to take up the suspension travel. Jacking from the diff is more stable and in my experience, faster.

 

Word of caution on the hitch... your pivot point / lever arm for using the hitch as a lift point now moves to the front tires. With the relatively short wheelbase of the Tacoma, you're probably fine. But it's a longer bending moment than the frame sees during regular loading.

I agree with one of the other posters... in a pinch you are probably okay. There is not much weight to lift. But be aware of the different mounting points your suspension has on the frame and how a lift on a hitch isn't the same.

This really is more of an issue on long wheel base trucks.

 

I do, have for 30 years, and will continue. I do always use jack stands though.

 

So you just raise it, place jack stands and lower it?

 

I tried to use a hi-lift on the hitch receiver when in a pinch. The jack leaned heavily on the tailgate and I aborted out of fear of damaging it. I could have taken the tailgate off I suppose, but I found an alternative.

I see little reason to use the hitch receiver on a regular basis because it is so high and there are several other better jack points. Also there is no reason to crawl under the truck if you have a full sized floor jack.

 

I would just raise truck then use jack stands. Sorry if I wasn't clear. Thanks for the replies

 

How does "tongue weight" rating factor in? A Tacoma rear end is going to weigh a whole lot more than a Travel Trailer nose?!

 

It's strong enough to lift the truck and anyone saying otherwise hasn't seen it done on the regular with a hi-lift offroad. Anyone who is comparing it's weight rating to a trailer tongue hitch doesn't understand physics. (Hint: tongue weight is more about steering and vehicle control than it is your hitch like, bending and snapping off the frame or something.)

But it's an absolute last resort and the reason you don't do it isn't the weight: it's because it can result in the truck tipping. Lifting from the rear center can cause it to slip left or right off the jack easily. It's pretty dangerous and desperation only, not a convenient jack point.

 

Weight/load wise its perfectly fine. Stability...meh

works fine for me