auto lockers?

Saw a video that made auto lockers look pretty good.
Is this wise to do? Is it even possible?

I say that because ECGS, considered the most reputable, only lists Air or E-locker for the front IFS clamshell
I don't know if any auto-lockers actually fit, or if I have to search elsewhere.
I'll check what is available from other similar places like Yukon

The appeal of ECGS is skill/reputation, competitive price, and drop-in third members to do the swap and mail the core back. I believe it comes with a warranty.

However, what sounds even more appealing, is finding a local skilled shop to do all the work. Price might be similar. No hassle. No core charge and mailing. Drop it off and pick it up. Likely has warranty. I think they all tend to use the same stuff, such as Revolution Gear and Axle parts.

IIRC, ECGS F/R 4.88 w/ ARB air lockers is approx $3500.
IDK how much of a pain it is (or where to put them) installing onboard air, like an ARB twin compressor, manifold, electrical power, lines.

but auto lockers?
-supposedly comes standard in high performance cars like Corvette, Audi R8
-still reputable brands
-are said to be strong
-half the price, $500 vs $1k ARB/each
-no "support mods" needed or buttons to press
-frees up your steering when the front unlocks
-no support parts (air lines or wires) that can fail
-(hopefully) comes on when you need it
-said to be stronger especially handling larger tires
-*if* desired, you can chirp or drift the back tires by hitting the gas

I think even humvees have autolockers that work by activating 4wd by lightly pressing the brake
autolocking sounds useful; turns on to climb up an obstacle, then turns off soon as you hit milder terrain for what's usually the majority of a trail

 

Depends what you use your truck for. There is no perfect setup but autolockers aka lunchbox lockers have their place in the offroad world.

 

There is lunch box lockers for the the front 8” clam. I installed one on an FJC. I personally wouldn’t because I can see me snapping CV’s even more often than I do now, but everyone drives differently, so it may work for you. It’s a fairly simple install. Pull the carrier, remove the ring gear from the carrier, remove spider gears, and install lunch box.

 

yeah i wasn’t sure theoretically speaking which snaps axle/CV more, if not equally - never had lockers so don’t have the real world experience to know

would lean towards a reputable brand like Eaton, etc

but if ARB is king, might be time to look into how to set this up
Maybe single ARB compressor, and where to put it

finally get rid of the

$103 ViAir 88P Portable Compressor Kit (12V, 120 Psi, Forup to 33" Tires)

ViAir 88P stored in the truck that’s not as good

 

unless you have a way to unlock the transfer case in low gear I would not want lunchbox lockers front and rear. Too easy to get in a bind on a tough trail and snap something.

 

with Eaton elocker there is less moving parts to actuate the locker. Switch, electrical solenoid, fuse, and wires. Only thing is, it’s not instantaneous. It has pins that lock it, you you must roll about 6” forward or backward to have it engage.

ARB, when you hit the locker button, it’s engaged. Downside is there are way more moving parts, which means more points of failure.

 

did not know that about "auto locker" needing room to engage; not good

truck is manual, different ratios from auto I think.
5.29 is popular among 3rd gen, but their auto may be different.
supposedly smaller weaker teeth that can break

on 33's, want to go 35's later
at this point I think F/R ARB air might work fine, 4.88
whether or not it's the best, wouldn't complain. Gonna be better than stock 3.73 F:Open, R:"LSD"

gonna try to figure out where to do and what cost
I heard ECGS is the best and looks to be initially
but when I click all the boxes like Core, Return, Solid Spacer, etc. shit starts to say like $2-3k per diff
maybe it's only that initially and goes down after core is sent back and whatnot...

does sound like less hassle to drop it off at a shop, instead of yanking out the diffs to swap (especially front) on a floor

 

Auto locker is almost always locked. Elocker is the one that needs to roll 6”

 

You don’t want an auto locker in the front. Just go LSD like Torsen. Detroit (which is auto) in the rear is very streetable

 

is it worth it to buy used third members as cores

to either send out to ECGS
Or drop off at a shop for building?
Then pick them up and slap it in
It would get rid of the labor cost associated with a shop having to work on the truck/remove them from the truck

if so, what is a good price for used third members?
Truck is 3.73 4x4 manual, mech LSD
Might be possible to grab different diffs from non matching 2nd gen

I’m seeing $600 for a rear on carpart
I feel like a yard would easily let one go for $300
I just don’t know if that’s a good price

I’d imagine not the best given I have an extra set of 4.10 that was like $300
But unfortunately it’s just the ring and pinion themselves, not the housing/entire third members

I believe the turnaround time from ECGS is faster if you mail them third members, and it potentially avoids all that extra core charge fee stuff