Home Improvement Today?

PVC is not the best choice for dryer vent but looking past that are the 90s long or short throw? if short that is probably contributing to the blockage

 

Okay...start the blower Hon...

 

Built a little decorative fence. Designing a lightweight 180° gate (swings both ways, nudge nudge)

Picked out these simple stainless hinges:

$20 Insaga 2Pack Wall Mount Gate Hinge | 304 Stainless Steel Gate Hinges for Farm Gate, One-Piece Molding Hinge Screw Eye with Hole Dia 5/8'' for Chain Link Fence Post Gate

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C2Z5MBXH?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

They arrived today (yes Sunday, that urgent. Not) Anyway, I thought (duh) the pins would be a hair more snug. They are not. Quite a bit of wobble, as in built in sag (ugg). Other than bushing the pin (if I could) any ideas? I was thinking a washer under the post mounting plate lower hole to angle them up a bit.

Thoughts? Maybe you see how much looseness in these still shots

 

Tapered plastic shim stock? (I know Amazon has them)

 

Wait.

Damn good idea. Neither really has much taper. I could just wrap some stainless or plastic shim stock. Does not need to be tapered.

 

Have you considered the depth of the lag as your gate adjustment? Half turn out on bottom makes the gate swing level without slop… etc?

 

My thought was the tapered shim under the pin mount, wider at the bottom to angle the pin

 

No I hadn’t. Another good idea!

 

Ok yes I had thought of grinding a large warsher in a taper profile

 

This

 

Ima do both as I have stainless shim stock. You guys rock thanks

 

ECGS doesn't make a bushing for this?

How about shave it down and do ball bearings?

 

I didn't pick the material - was in the house when I bought it and replacing it would require digging through concrete, so....

They are both short throw and right next to each other and definitely the problem

 

Wrap a towel around the outside edge of the blower before ya shove it in the hole for good a seal. I used a kit similar to this attached to a drill as others have already mentioned. Make sure you tape the pieces together after you connect them or you'll risk losing your wand in the hole.

$28 Holikme 40 Feet Dryer Vent Cleaner Kit Flexible Lint Brush with Drill Attachment, Extends Up to 40 Feet for Easy Cleaning, Synthetic Brush Head, Use with or Without a Power Drill

https://www.amazon.com/Holikme-Cleaning-Remover-Extends-Synthetic/dp/B088GR7DM8

 

Started my mudroom built-ins project this weekend. I pulled off the baseboards in order to paint and be able to install cabinets/cubbies flush to the wall.

Not sure if this is normal, but it appears that when the tile floor was installed, the baseboards were in first, the ran tile to the baseboard, then covered the edge with a piece of quarter round.


In areas where I don't have cabinets or cubbies, I guess I'll put baseboard back the same way in that gap with a quarter round on the floor, but what should I do behind the cabinets? Just leave it, or try to fill that gap somehow? I wasn't planning to run backpanels on the cabinets or cubbies, but maybe thats the best solution?

 

It seems to be the new normal level for the acceptable level of craftsmanship now a days.

 

Super steal deal alert, over 3k sold in last 2 days. Every time you refresh the page you will see more gone, this will likely sell out by end of day tomorrow . Figured I'd post here for all the homeowners. At this price, even if you only use it twice it's cheaper than renting.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Legend-...e-Tiller-Forward-Reverse-LF20212RTG/314372925