SOLVED: Won't turn over after cleaning trans position connector

My 2005 with Auto won't turn over, like it's not even in Park or Neutral

I had a CEL and the dash display wasn't showing D or any of the other forward gears, and wouldn't go in to cruise control. This happened a year ago and I called a shop who advised me to pull the connector on the passenger side of the transmission and give it a few shots of contact cleaner.

So I repeated the operation this morning. Now when I turn the key the dash lights up, it indicates P for Park, but when I turn the key, nothing happens.

Is there a way to reset something? I pulled the connector out for about 90 minutes to make sure the contact cleaner dried up.... still nothing.

Thanks

 

Sounds like the park/neutral circuit isn't working, there's 2 circuits for park/neutral. One for the indicator/PCM and one for the starter relay, sounds like you have a problem with the one for the starter relay.
Will it start in neutral?
I'll post a diagram when I get time.

 

You are going to have to see if you’re get power to the correct locations.
I’m betting the Neutral safety switch isn’t allowing power to the starter relay.

Here is a good thread on diagnosing a no crank.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2nd-gen-information-diagnostics.784008/#post-28042155

 

It won’t engage in any position, I’m not sure I want to go through the whole measuring voltages thing

but to be clear, the only connector I cleaned, was the one on the passenger side.

 

Are you willing to pull 1 relay and check at least 1 pin?
If not, it’s going to be tough to help you. With out that some information, we can’t off any real good advise.

Other than check the STA fuse, and make sure the plug is plugged in good at the transmission.

 

Thats the transmission range sensor/park/neutral position switch, the starting circuit, reverse lights, and range indicator circuits all go through there.

 

I can do that... need to run an errand first, luckily my bike starts.

 

I got to thinking about relays.... So before I left for errands I disconnected the battery. After 90 minutes I reconnected and it started up.

Thanks for all the help. I'm sure this won't happen again. And if it does I'm sure it will be in my garage like this time.

 

Hey Shooter:


My starting troubles have been going on now for 6 weeks. You seem to be the "Go To" guy so maybe you can give me some insight. Sometimes my 07 starts, sometimes it doesn't, and sometimes it will start only if I hold the key on for 5 to 10 seconds, and sometimes that doesn't even work. When it does start...it may take 5 to 10 seconds for Drive to engage. I just replaced the Range Sensor and there is no change.(continued below)

 

I did "bite the bullet" and bought the Electrical Wiring Diagram and on Page 12 of the Overall Electrical Wiring Diagram it seems to show that the Range Sensor does more than simply show what gear one is in on the dash and console. One wire from the Range Sensor goes to the Combination Meter????? The Range Sensor IS getting power from the 7.5 A Starter Relay and the B/Y wire is unobstructed back to the Starter Relay Pin 2, but the Range Sensor will not allow the power to pass thru it. I hardly know where to go from here. Thanks for all you do here.

 

OP here.

Shortly after I posted SOLVED, everything went south in a hurry. First it would take several seconds for drive to engage, shifting was awful, etc. And then it wouldn't turn over again. A local mechanic showed me how to jumper the relay in the fuse box behind the battery to get it started, and I drove it directly to a transmission shop.

After testing the voltages, they replaced the park neutral safety switch and all is now good.

Also worth noting is that I was developing the torque converter shudder. My fluid was a quart low and a little dark but not burnt. After adding fluid there was no noticeable difference. We discussed a fluid and filter service, but the tech wasn't real confident that it would resolve it. But I said to go ahead and do it. After the service, the shudder is gone. He noted that the pan was very clean, almost nothing on the magnets.

My full bill was $1,031 out the door which included diagnosing the issue, replacing the switch, and servicing the transmission fluid and filter. Now I have no issues with the switch, no shudder, and it shifts better than I thought it could.

Maybe some here will say I spent way to much, but I'm very happy with the results and I have my truck back.