A/C clutch problems

Hello everyone,

This is my first post. I'm new to tacomas as I just bought an 07 V6 recently. The AC doesn't work and the previous owner told me it failed on him several times and the last time it failed he didn't bother to get it fixed.

I have some knowledge of how automotive AC systems work so I've been doing some troubleshooting. I've read some of the threads here on Tacoma World and watched several videos but nothing seems to match my problem. The AC clutch doesn't engage when I turn the AC on. The relay is good as is the fuse. I don't have a blinking AC light either. The blower works fine but just blows ambient air.

Now the confusing part is the clutch doesn't free spin when the AC is off. I tried disconnecting the clutch wiring and even disconnected the battery and the clutch doesn't free spin. HOWEVER, when the engine is running the clutch isn't spinning either. The pulley spins fine and the serpentine belt isn't smoking on a locked compressor. Any ideas to what could be causing this? I'm stumped to what could be causing this. If it was a locked compressor and clutch the belt would be smoking. If the clutch wasn't engaging it should be able to be free spun.

I appreciate any help on this issue.

Thanks all,

Troy

 

Sounds like the compressor may have failed and the refrigerant leaked out.
Have you checked if there's refrigerant in the system?

 

I would recommend replacing the compressor, the desiccant pack....just be done with it. If the AC hasn't run in that many years the compressor is likely shot at this point anyway.

 

There is refrigerant in the system. I just poked the low pressure Schrader valve and some came out. The line also rapidly cooled. I did notice that both the high and low pressure schrader valves don't have their caps. I cleaned both out.

Is it possible the compressor is seized and that's why the clutch isn't spinning? I thought the only thing the clutch mates to is the pulley. I was hoping the compressor doesn't need to be replaced. Is there any other way to test the compressor without removing it?

My suspicion is the compressor but I don't want to be replacing expensive parts without for sure knowing that's the issue.

Thank you,

Troy

 

I would check to see if the signal is getting to the clutch to engage. Indications are that it isn't telling the clutch to engage as the A/C light should blink if commanded and it didn't register the RPM Match. If the compressor was locked up and the clutch engaged it would burn the drive belt.

It could be a combination of issues also.

Clutch is defective and the system is low on R134a.

 

Okay so I bypassed clutch relay to test the clutch. I dont know why I didn't think of that earlier. The clutch activates fine.

I turned the engine on and activated the clutch. The clutch is slipping which is why the belt is not smoking. I removed the belt, activated the clutch and tried to spin the compressor by hand and it does not spin. I'm assuming the compressor is locked up. Looks like I'm replacing the compressor.


kidthatsirish mentioned replacing the desiccant pack. Is there anything else I should replace alongside these items?

I think I could do most of this work myself, however is there some things I should just get a shop to do?

Thank you,

Troy

 

The A/C Dryer is built into the Condenser. The only way to replace that is to replace the condenser assembly.

If your compressor is locked up you are going to need a complete A/C System rebuild / replacement as tiny particles has surely worked its way into every little nook and cranny.

At a minimum if the compressor has grenaded:
Evaporator, TX Valve, Inline filter, Piping cleaned or replaced, Compressor Assembly, Condenser Assembly, all seals / O-rings and R134A.

Plus the tools to do the job.

Minimum.

 

Just went through this last summer. I have an excel spreadsheet with part numbers, prices, tools, links, etc in this thread which may help you: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/ac-system-repair-estimate.773689/

 

So all my parts and tools have arrived so I'm finally working on repairing the system. I've been through the forum I am seeing conflicting quantities of PAG oil. I've seen 5.5 Oz but then I've seen over 7. What is the correct quantity needed for the system.

My new compressor came with the newest pag oil so I drained that and added in 2.75 Oz PAG 46 oil.

Whats the best procedure to adding the rest of the oil into the system?

Thank you,

Troy

 

5.5oz is correct.

Add some to compressor, condenser and maybe a little into the lines.

 

What side of the condenser do you add the oil into? And wouldn't the oil just spill out once the condenser is installed?

 

Rotate the compressor plate by hand and you'll see the oil get worked inside. I think technically you're supposed pour it in the outlet side but honestly I put it both sides and rotate it a bunch until it's well sucked in, never had any problems

Don't get carried away though, the lines don't need any. Too much oil in the system can inhibit efficiency and heat transfer, like in the condenser for example..

 

The outlet side being the low pressure side eh? The manual for the compressor said to add to the drain plug. Does it matter exactly where it's added into the compressor?

I see the oil as needing to lubricate the compressor and that's all. It's the only moving part in the system. Expansion valve moves a little but it's not overly complex.

 

The outlet side is the high pressure side, the smaller line that goes straight to the condenser between the headlights

The compressor needs the lubrication more than the other components but the oil doesnt stay there. It circulates through the whole system, carried along by the refrigerant as it moves in a loop.

That's why a persistent refrigerant leak can often lead to a damaged compressor. If there's no refrigerant in the system there's no way for the oil to get circulated around..