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Clutch Styles

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by PandaYota, Aug 3, 2023.

  1. Aug 3, 2023 at 6:29 PM
    #1
    PandaYota

    PandaYota [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hey y’all. I’m trying to figure out if this center sleeve should move on my 2006 Tacoma Clutch. It has quite a bit of rattle to it and I feel like it should have zero movement. Also I talked to Toyota and they said there is three different styles of clutches. Not one that supersedes another but they are interchangeable. The piece I’m pointing at as a lot of play. I can’t post a video on here.

    IMG_1348.jpg

    IMG_1354.png
     
  2. Aug 3, 2023 at 10:13 PM
    #2
    TacoTuesday1

    TacoTuesday1 Well-Known Member

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    pic does not show what part you're referring to.

    Stock clutch setup is garbage. Went with URD Heavy, Stg2, HydroTOB (6MT RA60F 4x4)
     
  3. Aug 3, 2023 at 10:15 PM
    #3
    TnShooter

    TnShooter The TacomaWorld Stray

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    I don’t see what you’re pointing at?
    Your mouse cursor isn’t pointing at anything either?
     
  4. Aug 5, 2023 at 12:16 AM
    #4
    PandaYota

    PandaYota [OP] Well-Known Member

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    3in lift with ICON shocks. Warn Winch. Many more mods to come.
    I like LUKS clutch and AISIN's. URD seems to expensive for no reason really. AISIN and LUKS are what are in these tacomas as far as I know so I dont really see a reason to swap to a URD
     
  5. Aug 5, 2023 at 12:18 AM
    #5
    PandaYota

    PandaYota [OP] Well-Known Member

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    3in lift with ICON shocks. Warn Winch. Many more mods to come.
    I fixed it. Now it shows the clutch.
     
  6. Aug 5, 2023 at 12:41 AM
    #6
    TacoTuesday1

    TacoTuesday1 Well-Known Member

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    LuK is German. Aisin is OEM.
    I once put an Exedy TYK1515. They claim to be OEM quality or better, are better priced, and have a good reputation. They even mailed me a second one for free after I possibly ruined mine towing. 2LO mod would've helped and I plan on doing it. Factory reverse ratio is not good.

    I think URD will handle traffic, towing, and wheeling better.
    Some people try to wheel at least once a year, move at least once a year pulling a U-Haul, and get stuck in traffic.
    Depends if you plan to use your Tacoma like a Tacoma or Prius.
    Factory parts are usually "just good enough" to sit parked on a dealer lot when it has 0 miles.

    On top of that, stock crapTOB went out. Replaced it with a Hydro to address that. Which softened pedal feel. Because that's what hydraulic things do. Putting a stronger pressure plate brought it back to feeling normal.
    Nobody wants to support the development of an improved crank pulley. URD achieves the same effect, and actually exists on the market. More weight for more damping.
    Think about the average person. 99% of people don't work on their own car. Clutch time means shop $1200+. You can argue that's your budget for parts DIY allowing for an upgrade, that the non-DIYer would not get.

    But at the end of the day, it's up to you. If you want to go with a cheap clutch, you certainly can.
    I did, at first. And then pulled the trans out again. I'm on removal #2. Going on #3 if I ever switch to Tilton

    Also, stock parts are usually designed for stock vehicles. My truck has added weight and bigger heavier tires. I don't think a stock clutch likes being slapped around like that.

    pulling the trans is not that big a deal. There's not a lot of parts. There's some room. Many DIY's to watch and read.
    so if you do go OE equivalent clutch, resurface your flywheel, keep it cheap
    and pick whatever you pick for TOB
    it's not that bad to potentially do it again year(s) down the road for whatever reason. At that point you'll be even faster at it from the practice. It's just a one day job max.

    that appears to me like something that normally gets thrown in the trash
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2023
  7. Aug 5, 2023 at 1:19 AM
    #7
    PandaYota

    PandaYota [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I currently have the trans out and the transfer case because I’m trying to inspect them and see why I’m getting a howling nose but yeah. The stock clutch has lasted 140,000 miles and all of those miles have been hard. I’m talking rock crawling, trail riding, concrete moving, recoveries. I am quite surprised it’s lasted this long to be honest. What clutch were you using when it went out while towing?

    I am pretty comfortable working on my own stuff and I’m not concerned at all about that aspect of it. I saw Rock auto has the LUK and AISIN for $190 with shipping and I haven’t been able to find anything that’s as good. I know a lot of people say the clutches are horrible from the factory but I honestly like mine. Both of my cars are manual and I don’t really have too many complaints with the clutch that’s in it now.
    The TOB is not in horrible condition but I’m going to replace it anyways but the kit on rock auto comes with one so that’s nice. I expect I can buy the AiSIN one for $190 and hopefully it will last another 130,000 miles just fine.

    IMG_1349.png
     
  8. Aug 5, 2023 at 1:27 AM
    #8
    TacoTuesday1

    TacoTuesday1 Well-Known Member

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    I had the Exedy and told them about it
    It may have been my fault
    Besides going up mountains with a UHaul

    what I felt did it in was going into the wrong apartment complex at the end. It was a long steep one way road and very dark. Lots of speed bumps to back up in reverse, parked cars to not hit, and no spotter. Turning to not jack knife. The most brutal clutch action I’ve ever experienced. 2LO would’ve saved the day there to just idle crawl out. Maybe should’ve looked for a spotter.

    valeo is also German. I don’t recall it being available back then.
    I had a LuK flywheel and Valeo SMF in my old Audi.
     
  9. Aug 5, 2023 at 7:52 AM
    #9
    b_r_o

    b_r_o Gnar doggy

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    The splines are supposed to be a slightly slack fit. That allows the disc to move as needed on the input shaft. Put a little grease on the splines but not too much
     
    ToyoTaco25 likes this.

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