Anything welding

Nice work!

Next time don't hesitate asking one of us for part cut outs if you need them so you don't have to shape parts with an angle grinder!

 

I appreciate the offer - Everything started as 2" square tube and 4" flat bar. Between cutting the gussets and sandwiching them together for addtl strength I definitely paid my dues with the cutting and grinding. I know you all know that welding is 95% prep with 5% welding. Lucky for me I find the process therapeutic. However, a mailbox is up next so I will be hitting you all up for some numbers to be cut once I get them drawn up.

I also blew up the POS magnetic drill press - damn plastic connecting the drill from the main unit/base completely separated/broke - sheared off - and the thing just spun wild for a few seconds until I killed power - somehow held together by a few wires. I should have taken a better picture. Very useful tool, but I guess I'll fork over $$ for a quality one next time.

 

Yeah of course; @Bivouac will be the first to tell you I find every excuse to use my table

Made this for another member some months back when he bought his first house



And damn that's real shitty about the mag drill.

How long have you owned it?

What brand is it?

Maybe something for others to steer clear from.

 

Yeah - here is a pic. I've used it extensively over the past year as a drill press along with several 25mm holes. When using it, I set it on a 10x10" 1/4" piece of steel that I clamp down to the HF welding table on 4 corners - the magnet holds much better with that piece down. And then position the piece I'm going to drill ... and drill. My only guess is I dropped it in the past or something caused a crack or weakness, but I never recall that. Either way, I was just about through a 3.8" piece of metal with 25mm bit and it simply broke.

I am going to reach out to the vendor but I'm not holding my breath.

Mophorn 1100W Magnetic Drill Press with 1-1/2" (40mm) Boring Diameter MD40 Magnetic Drill Press Machine 2810 LBS Magnetic Force Magnetic Drilling System 670 RPM with 6 Pcs HSS Annular Cutter Kit

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KLS3FTH?ie=UTF8

 

Is the case the only bad part?

 

Probably. 1 of the 2 wires broke and the other is frayed but I imagine I could reconnect, stabilize and give it a go. Maybe.

 

My job is done now you do it for me!!

Explain you use any excuse to use your table.

 

Time for some epoxy .

If you have internal clearance maybe some metal reinforcement on the outside.

Over the years I have cobbled a few back together because when you need a mag drill you really need one.

Good luck!

 

Got it all burned together. You guys arent kidding about needing air over hydro. Otherwise it is great.

 

Never used the manual bottle jack, but I'd recommend the air over hydraulic simply from a safety perspective

 

How do you guys make nice consistent bends in flat bar. Something like a 4.5" radius as I need to match up an old 60s handrailing that is simple flat bar top and bottom w/square stock pickets. I have a bender but it only offers dies for tube.

Heat it and wrap around a round template maybe? .. seems less controllable than a bender so hoping to get some wisdom here.

Thanks in advance!

 

I think you just invented an international symbol for foods containing habeneros!

 

So, pictures don't do it justice but I've only ever used 1.1mm tips on my PTM-60 torch the entire time I've owned it.

Older picture showing just how much 1.1mm cuts into your sheet -



Yesterday I got a few orders, one of which I could cut today. Being 16 gauge I normally run a 0.6 second pierce delay with my 1.1mm tip.

Decided to use one of my 0.8mm tips I've had in my drawer for months now and learned that a longer pierce delay is required. I opted for 0.9 seconds even though 0.8 would've probably done the job. Kept the same cut speed of 100IPM and 30 amps (max for this tip size) -



The biggest noticeable difference is the lack of any "burn-ins" caused by a lead-in. I made no changes to the offset as...you can see above why. Several of the cuts between the letters were extremely small so I left them at default values.

Came out way better than expected -



My only real issue is for some reason my cutting was much slower than the 100IPM I set it for; I'm thinking between yesterday's update on my PC when I drew it and created the profile to today's post processing on the laptop (without the update) the 100IPM didn't translate to my NC file. I noticed it when I started cutting but decided to leave it cause I don't have much spare 16 gauge left.

 

Finally got to test out the xfire on mach3. Game changing and I can't wait to dig into fusion 360. No metal laying around so I cut out on 1/8 aluminum
File is a grinder holder I downloaded from fire share




Also my 17 torch from ahp finally dry rotted. Upgraded to a 20 and picked up a water cooler and added the pressure gauge. Hope it's a major improvement.

 

Good shit; what were your settings on aluminum?

Someone's needing stuff cut out on aluminum but I'm only on compressed air.

 

Compress air at 30 amps. Not sure on ipm since I just used whatever the setting is in the file. I'm using a hypertherm 45xp.

 

No way, the TAP file worked out for ya huh?

Looks good.

 

Yep. I was pretty excited nailing it without trying. Even guess on the amps too.

 

Right

Cause aluminum has a hard oxide layer that takes a good pierce delay to get through, but too slow a speed can cause hard dross on the backside

You'll see its a back and forth when it comes to dialing it in

A successful cut always feels good though