The NorthStar AGM Battery + Voltage Booster Upgrade

Yep. 3rd gen V6 is a tune, 2nd gen v6 is a physical booster

 

Whats the cheapest people have been able to get the ECM tuned?
Without getting anything else.

 

I have a 2006 Tacoma with the 4.0 V6 engine. I have a DC Power Engineering HO 270A alternator and running dual Odyssey ODX-AGM27F batteries which have a cyclic charge voltage of 14.4-14.8VDC.

I have the HKB Electronics module as many of you do.

When I purchased the module I only had ONE Northstar NSB-AGM27F battery. I upgraded now to dual battery setup. As you might know, Northstar is no longer available since they were “absorbed” by Odyssey. I kept the recommended setting that I had with the original one battery - jumper number 5 up.

I have it set as recommended, with jumper number 5 up. The cyclic charge voltage of my Odyssey’ batteries is 14.4-14.8.

When I start the truck first thing in the morning the voltage gauges show 14.3 on the

$160 ScanGauge - SG2 Ultra Compact 3-in-1 Automotive Computer with Customizable Real-Time Fuel Economy Digital Gauges for OBD2 Vehicles

SCANGAUGE connected to the OBD port and between 14.4 and 14.5 on the main and aux battery gauges connected directly to each battery.

Then as I start my driving and time goes on, specially on very hot days now in summer here in the south, the voltage readings on the ScanGauge and the battery gauges slowly begin to drop until they reach 13.6 to 13.9VDC. If I have been driving for hours it just steadilyremains around that range, mainly stays at 13.9VDC.

Is this normal?
Is this good for the AGMs?
Are they being properly charged?
Do higher/lower readings are ambient temperature dependent?
Is the setting on my HKB MK4 module correct or should I do some adjustments?
If so how?

Any help provided would be greatly appreciated. I hope @crashnburn80 chimes in.

Thank you.

Rick

 

Odyssey did not actually make a 27F before acquiring Northstar, or many other common sizes they now acquired for that matter. I'm very confident that the Odyssey ODX-AGM27F is the same battery made in the same facility as the old Northstar. The housing and specs are identical, only thing that changed in the color of the housing (from Northstar colors to Odyssey colors) and the branding sticker.

As temps go down, charging voltage will go up. And as temps get hot, charging voltage will go down. The float charge minimum spec listed ontop of the battery is 13.5v, so as long as you are equal to or above that, I wouldn't worry about it.



With the HKB MK4 you can adjust the voltage up +0.2v for the summer, but you are within spec so I wouldn't bother. I wouldn't set it above 0.6v, which is 3 switches on and 2 switches off. This is the Max setting I would use.



For winter in cold areas I'd consider going down to 0.4v so you don't over charge the battery on a cold start in the cold, which is 2 switches on and 3 switches off. For where I live in the PNW I found the fixed 0.5v booster to be more ideal.

 

Thank you very much. And you are correct about the Odyssey batteries they ARE Northstar batteries in every way down to the physical shape of the box. They were absorbed by Odyssey so my “new” Odyssey battery is identical in shape and dimensions to the old Northstar if I look at them side-by-side.

So, if I’m concerned, I can go with switches 4 and 5 up. But you say I’m within specs, so I cans just stay as HKB recommends and keep 5 up, correct?

 

This is the max setting I would recommend, unless you fall outside of the min charge specs. This is +.06v.


This is +0.8v, which is high. I would not recommend going this high unless you fall below minimum charge specs for extended periods. Even then I'd monitor charge voltage heavily. You don't want to over charge the battery.

 

Oh CRAP! That’s where I been ever since I got the module, with 5 up.

So change configuration to 4 AND 5 up. That is the best setting?

 

Only switch 5 up is +0.8v. That is a lot, but your charge specs seem to be in the range. With 4 and 5 up will be +0.6v. If you are at 13.6v now, that may dip you below 13.5v. Maybe in hot enough heat that +0.8v could be justified, it doesn't get that hot around here for me to have personal experience.

 

Im in +0.6V now as recommended. Thanks!

 

This is what I've done with my 2016 Sienna Limited

Odyssey Extreme 34R
200psi OBA
Train Horns
Sub Amp
Multi-camera surveillance system running 24/7

Initial voltage readings at idle:

Stock: 13.3-13.5v

1 diode: 13.9-14.1v

2 diodes: 14.5-14.7v

 

Gonna need some more info on the train horn minivan setup…

 

Nathan Airchime K3's
200psi compressor
4Gallon slimline air tanks

https://youtu.be/tCgw1n3QiKQ?si=QN1XCQFb9h0oHpIg

https://youtu.be/Erx-Y-fONQQ?si=e8KU4jzG_EZOZwOe

https://youtu.be/D7q4VgmDlNc?si=26iI_SVoW6yY4ZpT

 

Check your overnight cold start voltage readings just after start up. If you are at 14.5-14.7v at idle, I suspect you'll far overshoot the max spec charge voltage under heavy cold start charge which will damage your AGM.

 

Nathan Airchime K3's
200psi compressor
4Gallon slimline air tanks

https://youtu.be/tCgw1n3QiKQ?si=QN1XCQFb9h0oHpIg

https://youtu.be/Erx-Y-fONQQ?si=e8KU4jzG_EZOZwOe

https://youtu.be/D7q4VgmDlNc?si=26iI_SVoW6yY4ZpT

Cold start voltage is usually 12.3-12.4v (this is after a full night of multiple cameras running non stop)

Initial start will generally peak at around ~15v, then taper off to about ~14.5-14.7v after she warms up.

My contact at Odyssey says it's about as good as it gets for this battery.

 

Why does it seem like I've seen your work before... Like on a FZJ80...

 

Doesn't sound great. Per Northstar technicians, startup voltage should never exceed 14.8v. If you are hitting 15v now, it is only going to get higher as it gets colder. Looks like you will be easily over charging the battery, leading to certain early failure. It sounds like Odyssey's technical support is unfortunately inferior to NorthStar whom they acquired. "Over charging is as good as it gets" should be a non-starter. Sound like talking to someone in sales vs engineering. I'd strongly advise against charging counter to the engineering specs printed directly on the battery.

 

Oh it's possible


https://youtu.be/opYuJFyu7j0?si=4IxxBTJHqtO-jxmC

https://youtu.be/PSJIxXr5GUU?si=_XRvJdTyw2P73y1Y

https://youtu.be/reMMPvGcQRI?si=iatZLn-i_GAl02NW

https://youtu.be/euMUGivHQuM?si=acMwocAwHEiIxNSk

 

According to Enersys, 15v is the limit (which is why he said it's as good as it gets).

If it starts going over, I'll just pull one of the diodes

But you're right, I should go by the specs printed on the battery itself rather than their general literature

 

Be sure to have a way to monitor or track the voltage other than manually using a multimeter. With being that close to the limit it will likely go higher in the winter, or remain at 15v for longer. I liked the voltage logging apps for history, but a simple in cab voltmeter works too.