Going 35's.

I've read the majority of the threads concerning going with 35's and I understand what needs to be done. I do a fair amount of off-roading, so I want to make sure that I clear in all areas at all times. That being said, I'd prefer not to cut my front fenders. While it looks OK in pictures, I'm fairly certain that upon closer inspection it would look pretty rough. Maybe I'm wrong.

Anyways, has anyone done a body lift instead of fender cutting? I would imagine a 1" body lift would clear it. I generally frown on body lifts (don't we all) but this seems like a situation that would merit it. Thoughts?

 

You can either use the C4 fender cut and fender liner kit, or wait a few more months and there will be a new fender option out.

If you stay with a 34" or smaller, you don't have to cut the outer fender flare and just need to trim some of the fender liner itself. Mine is cut so nice it looks OEM. I've seen others that have been absolutely butchered.

 

For 35's, you need to look at a lot more than the fenders. Cab mount chop or relocation, upper control arms, wheels with different offset, which kind of 35's, normal or skinny version.

 

Do you have any pictures of said fender cut? I still maintain that a slight body lift might work in place of cutting, no?

 

This is why I'm going to 34s and not 35s.

 

Understood. I have no issues with any of that. The only part I don't like is the fender cutting.

 

Its not that bad. I just did mine this last Saturday. Used the C4 kit. The metal part is the easy part. Its the plastic fender that is most visual. But you can easily replace those. I don't have 35's yet but I'm all prepared for them now, ha.

The thought of "measure twice, cut once" is still tried and true, just take your time.

Before:



After:



Its not perfect but neither is my truck, ha. Lots of natures pinstriping all over her.

 

That looks about as good as any of seen. You did a good job with it for sure. Do you think a 1" body lift would have got you there without cutting, though?

 

I have never heard anyone putting a body lift on a Tacoma. Jeeps for sure though. If you're going just for the look, then I'd say go ahead and try it. It is your truck. But if you are wanting to wheel it, then I'd stick with a decent suspension lift and the extras that go along with it.

 

Your options are start chopping or extended bumps and reattach your flare if it pops off.

I run a 295/70r17 and I have been slowly self clearencing my front flares.

One other thing to note is wheel offset with play a huge part aswell. My -25 does not help the case at all.

 

Yeah..I know it's not common, but I don't like hacking up the truck if I can help it. I have King 2.5's all around currently, the lift there isn't the problem, but getting the body a little higher should alleviate the need to chop the fenders...i would think.

I do wheel it fairly often, so I need it to clear in all directions...just trying to avoid the inevitable, I suppose.

 

Honestly I don't know if that would be enough? ha. Before my bumper, I was rubbing my fender liners with my 33's. The high clearance bumper eliminated most of the rub but I was still hitting on the back side. Have you done your pinch welds yet? That and using a heat gun to "mold" the liners into better positions seem to help too.

That looks like quite the spot!

 

I haven't had to do any modification to the pinch weld or body mount to get the 33's to fit. I have a SLIGHT rub on the passenger side cab mount when off-road at times, but not enough to bother with. I'm running 285/75/16s on the stock TRD Pro wheels, so being slightly under a 33" tire probably is the reason for that.

I plan to do a cab mount relocate, pinch weld, wheels, gears and finish out my Slimline hybrid bumper with the wings.

 

The labor on CMR is anywhere from 1-1.5k. A good CMC is probably just as good and under $300 for parts and labor. On a related note if you want to buy the DRT CMR kit at a discount DM me.

 

I weld (somewhat) decently, so I save money there. It just seems that an aggressive CMC is a hassle. The relocation resolves the issue cleanly and permanently.

 

yeah, that'll save you some cash! sure wish I could weld well enough to do it myself.

 

I agree there! I had mine chopped twice, ha, and then broke most of it loose before finally getting the proper relocation. Went with DRT too.

 

First pic is the rear of the fender, DRT CMR is in there.

Second pic is the front of the fender, SSO Hybrid bumper up front.

For true 35's, you're going to have to take part of the fender flare or the tire will do it for you. How much is dependent upon offset, 0 offset might clear with my style of cut but it will be close - you'll definitely rub other places though, my 34's on 0 offset rubbed something inboard, I don't know if it was the control arms or the frame, I could never tell, only at full lock in reverse. I run them with a 3/4" spacer to technically like a -17 offset. If you have SPC arms you get a little extra clearance, maybe a 1/2". Could do the JD Fab lower pivot kit if you're absolutely against cutting.

I'm getting ready to do a different bumper and the C4 fender liners as I need just a little more clearance on the fender flare. This will set me up for 35's too.

You'll also need a bump stop spacer or that 35 is going to eat the inside of the fender.

 

The BTF Fab LCAs could also likely do the job without cutting

 

I have 34s (285/75/17 ko2) and rub the fender when fully flexed or if I hit a deep rut with speed. I plan on 35's so I'm gonna cut fenders. I have no sway bar either which contribute to the rub I think.