Lots of Issues.. - 2013 Tacoma 4wd has been out for 3 years

Hey! I recently purchased a 2013 Tacoma TRD with a ton of problems. Items I need help on

1. SOLVED - 4wd has been out for 3years… Yikes. ‘4-low’ light is flashing constantly on the dash while driving. The thing is stuck in 2wd. Previous owner replaced the actuator in the differential but only cleaned the transfer case actuator before giving up (*I plan to buy a new transfer case actuator on RockAuto ASAP*) thoughts or common known fixes? *Note someone has modified wiring to add a switch to turn off traction control/vcs… does this sound like an issue?

2. SOLVED - CV’s need rebuild. Boots are torn open, not sure if axles are OEM. The thing is lifted (Bilsten 5010’s up front with a puck spacer on top.. thoughts?) but came w a diff. Drop kit I plan to install. *I think I’ll buy CVJ inner boots and Toyota outer boots to rebuild. Thoughts? Will replace axle seals at the diff.
(Bought a local set of TRD branded 5100's and replaced the shocks all around. Set my ICON RTX pack to setting 2. I have a little over 2" lift all around now. rebuilt one side with a Toyota kit and did the other with an Orileys for the lifetime warranty. I had needle-bearing issues too in the end... doing the bushing soon..)

3. SOLVED - 4wd fluids. Opinions for front diff./transfer case Fluid replacement fluids? If there’s legit concern using non OEM fluid I’m OK doing Toyota fluid. I went for the Orileys 'MasterPro' synthetic stuff per the recommendation of the Dealership here in town lol. Make sure you get new Toyota crush washers!

if you had specific threads in mind please feel free to link!

I appreciate you guys!

 

For the 4wd system start by checking your limit switch voltages at the 4wd ECU and post your results.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/4wd-system-operation-help-thread.742420/

No specific fluids required for the diffs and transfer case, just use gear oil meeting the specs listed in your owners manual.
If you don't have an owners manual you can download one here.
https://www.toyota.com/owners/resources/warranty-owners-manuals

 

It would be nice to remove the word Help from you description, that is for people stranded or needing a pull

 

Remove the puck spacer, and don't install the diff drop. You'll save yourself a huge headache. Try to find OEM or OEM reman axles, if you cant, buy some AutoZone ones because at least they'll come with a lifetime warranty, lol.

 

Dm93, I'll get that limit switch voltage test done this week and post my results! Your thread was super helpful!! Thanks a ton

Thanks Pittsy for the input! I'll attempt to rebuild the axles and go Autozone if it doesn't work out. Just out of curiosity, what's your reasoning for wanting to remove the puck and not do a diff drop to help the CV's? I like the lifted look and would like to keep it lifted 2-3" when it's all said and done functionally for toying around in Montana. It has Bilstein 5010's in the front under the pucks if it makes a difference to you!

Also thanks Geeves77 , Thread title changed!

 

5100s and spacer don’t mix well
See the link below for details.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...acer-for-softer-ride-at-2-5in-of-lift.739758/

As for the diff drop, it puts the diff slightly lower than the cross-member.
And if you smack a big rock on the trail, it can push the diff into the oil pan. It isn’t likely to happen but it can happen.
Some also say that it “tilts” the diff down and deprives it from proper lubrication. But I don’t think that’s a big deal.

 

It’s just not the right way to do it. If you want to do it correctly do a coilover lift and a bigger leaf pack. Pucks and blocks just aren’t the move. https://youtu.be/47aat1tc6zw

 

Just a wild assed guess about the 4wd issues, has the switch itself been checked? Maybe something’s borked up in there, telling the ecu you wanna shift into 4lo, but the safety features won’t let it move till you select 2 or 4hi again first.

probably been ruled out already but sometimes the simplest solutions slap me in the face and I still troubleshoot around it for weeks.

you’ll probably end up having to chase all the wiring though, if the previous owner hacked some mods in there to disable VSC. The electronic nannies on these truck get real pissy if they think you messed with them in any way.

 

Problem 1 can be resolved by follow the link @Dm93 posted. Get us the numbers, we’ll get you figured out.

Problem 2 is inherent to the lift.
Most lifts put the CVs at an angle they weren’t designed for. You can do the boot slide mod and buy better boots.

Problem 3 is

$29 75w-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75w-90 in all 3. Call it done.

 

Dm93, Please see the test results below! Looks like all of Harness A is working as it should but nothing in Harness B is.

On harness B the ground (B26) doesn't have a wire going to it at all which felt wrong... Any thoughts?!

 

That's very interesting, so you have no voltage on any of the limit switch pins?
Are you sure your ground on your meter was good?
I've never seen them all at 0 before.

 

Me either.
I haven’t been able to sit down and look at the diagrams.
I can’t remember all the wires and routing. I have to refresh my memory.

But I agree. Make sure the ground was good.

 

TnShooter & Dm93 thank you both for the quick reply’s, I super appreciate it! I have faith we’ll figure this out!

do either of you have the wiring diagram for the 4wd ECU? The fact that there was no wire connecting into B26 makes me think the wiring might have been tampered with

I plan to take terminal cleaners to both actuators tomorrow and test both the actuators the correct resistance

 

Check your PM

 

I'll grab it and post it tomorrow.
The fact they are all 0v suggests they are all shorted (unlikely I would think) as the 4wd ECU sends out 12v on each limit switch terminal and the limit switches pull them to ground.

 

I redid the test and used A6 as my ground. I was able to come up with much better results.

let me know what you two think I should go after next!

 

Looks like DL1 is the problem, you can ground Pin 6 (Light Green) at the ADD Actuator and retest DL1 at the 4wd ECU. If it goes to 0v your problem is in the ADD Actuator, if not you have an open circuit between the ADD Actuator and the 4wd ECU.

 

I wanted to give an update on this!

I was able to get the truck in 4WD successfully over the last week and it seems as though all is good so far... but I plan to give a long-term update!

From
Dm93 and TnShooter recommended ECU test I could see the ADD was having an issue with one of the limit switches so I knew there was a problem there. I grounded DL1 using a paperclip and retested the ECU. When retesting with the ADD grounded with the paperclip I could see that the T-case Actuator wasn't doing what it was supposed to be doing either!

Solution:
-The original owner gave me the original factory ADD and after soldering the motor back on and testing it out off of the car all was good with the factory ADD!
-I purchased an aftermarket TRQ T-case actuator, $120 as a hail mary... after installing it (pretty easy install, 40min ordeal for me) I hung the factory ADD from the car and was able to go in and out of 4wd and watched the ADD move up and down as it hung to verify it worked.
-Finally, I installed the factory ADD back in the car (this was a PITA IMO...). now all is currently good! and the factory locker works too which was a huge bonus!

 

Thatnks for coming back with an update

 

Got to give you some credit for persevering.....I don't know if I would have got there.