Anything welding

Definitely not confident with my aluminum welding. But I'll be redoing my intercooler piping soon. Originally made it out of steel. We'll see how it goes.

 

Least you won't need to backpurge like you would steel or stainless.

 

Forgot to come back and realize I was correct regarding the update on the PC and not updating my laptop where I did my post process; my laptop took that file (with an already generated profile) and defaulted my torch back to 40IPM versus the 100IPM I had set it to.

I confirmed this when I opened up the file again on my laptop, clicked to edit my 2D profile, and saw it was back at default.

 

Yeah true. But I'll be remaking my exhaust out of stainless. Not looking forward to the cost of that lol

 

There are tools for holding pieces together when you tack them in place for welding; remember 3 tacks minimum so it doesn't pull one way!

And definitely backpurge for stainless.

 

Yeah I know I have the regulator and a set of purge plugs for smaller stainless. Wanna get a set for the exhaust.

 

Goatskin gloves, those are comfy

 

yeah they're really nice

 

16 sq ft of cold rolled 16 gauge, and just a hair over 4 sq ft of 1/8" aluminum



Got the aluminum to practice cutting on my table

 

A guy asked me to make a sign for his friend who has all the crew over every Sunday for watching sports in his pole barn... all year. So, they nicknamed the place "Moser Arena". Moser is his last name. He said the guy and his wife love owls and have a bunch of them in various forms.

So, I tried to combine sports and owls for a sign outside pointing to the man door. I'm never really happy with them, but it turned out okay. It's about 24" x 24".

 

I have had good luck with fein tools. We buy a lot of fein angle grinders ... good balance between cost and longevity. They dont last forever, i have personally blown up a few ring gears in the heads, but for the quality vs cost, they are pretty decent.

 

Today's failure

 

It's not a swirl ring issue, the jaggedness is inconsistent (not to mention the swirl ring is installed in the correct orientation).

It's not a tip or electrode issue, I installed new ones before doing this cut.

It's not a warping issue, there is no beveling as the metal did not move at all to introduce any height deviations.

It's not a loose tip or electrode issue, they were checked and were still tight after cutting was done.

It's not a moisture issue, again the jaggedness is inconsistent and my beads were just replaced yesterday; still blue and dry.

 

Made a little purchase today: 16 gauge was down a little and 18 up since last time. I usually get some 24 gauge for backing plates for signs, but they were out. Back plate gives a place for different paint colors as well as adds rigidity. Not really needed on 16, but helpful on the 18 gauge.

 

From my reading that jagged look usually occurs when one of the couplers is slipping. Hasn't happened to me but seen similar from others. Those aluminum couplers are bad about getting loose, and having not air gap left to tighten them. Be careful, the bolts will break pretty easy.

A lot of folks have replaced them with these:

$14 Ruland CLX-4-4-F One-Piece Clamping Rigid Coupling, Black Oxide Steel, 1/4" Bore A Diameter, 1/4" Bore B Diameter, 5/8" OD, 1" Length

Ruland CLX-4-4-F One-Piece Clamping Rigid Coupling, Black Oxide Steel, 1/4" Bore A Diameter, 1/4" Bore B Diameter, 5/8" OD, 1" Length: Clamp On Couplings: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

 

Screws are good; no binding and nothing loose.

Checked torch mount and Z axis bearings, everything is tight.

Made a change in each variable, and with each change I cut a new piece - same issue follows

1. Another new 0.8mm tip, jaggedness occurs

2. Flipped swirl ring, slightly worse (meaning I had it right the first time)

3. Drastically increased cut speed, jaggedness barely minimized as if the speed hides it

4. Drastically decreased cut speed, jaggedness still occuring

5. Tightened whatever coupler screws were not absolutely tight, still jagged

6. Air going into the machine consistent 90psi, and torch running a consistent 55psi

7. Put on a 1.1mm tip, jaggedness still occurs

 

Work of Elaina Friberg

 

I'd still try making some marks on the couplers and lead screws to see if there is any slipping going on. You can dry run the program just to see if the marks get out of alignment. That's one of the problems with the aluminum couplers, they can be all the way tight and still slip.

You can also try turning the lead screws by hand and see if you can feel any binding or difference in tightness from one axis to the other. If any is felt, check for table squareness and levelness.

 

What on earth is that supposed to be?

 

I'll try that later on.

Need to get some other pieces cut which I'm doing now on 1/4" and wouldn't you guess it...perfect like always