DIY Replacing Driveshaft Center Bearing

The jerking at a red light, sitting still, while keeping your foot on the brake is probably just the AC compressor kicking on. If it feels like your truck jumps a little and needs more foot on the brake at a red light that’s all it is.

 

I know what you are talking about and that happens as well, but this happens when the a.c. is off. And it just happens sometimes. One guy said it is because my fuel injectors are partly clogged and he went on to say not to clean them because that can do more damage than good. I don't know if any of that is accurate. Thanks for responding.

 

Just confirming the following PNs for 2006 4x4 Double Cab
3x Dana Spicer DANA

$31 513301X Spicer 5-1330-1X U-Joint Kit

513301X U-Joints
1x Dana Spicer Center Carrier Bearing 5002007

 

I just finished my carrier bearing replacement and found this on the floor not sure if it came off the drive shaft or not. Anybody seen one of these while changing carrier bearing?

 

Looks like an old dust shield - which in the 4x4 carrier bearings. (That is the only difference between the 2wd and 4wd versions.)

 

Go back through this thread, somewhere I should have a post talking about that. I've tried to warn people to be on the lookout for it haha

It's some sort of spacer / shim / washer thing. It's super hard and goes up against the face of the bearing. The grease causes it to stick to the old one being taken off

I ended up taking mine all back apart a 2nd time to reinstall that. But I can guarantee you most people don't even notice it's missing and I've never heard of any side effects from not having it.

 

I ended up saving it I shouldn't need it. I put a oem 2wd on because I ordered wrong one didn't want to pay re stocking fees and such. So if I remember I'll put it back on the next time I change carrier bearing. Thanks guys

 

the noise just stopped one day!!! should i still replace it???

 

original shocks

 

Just did this today- Spicer CB and U Joints on my '15 with just shy of 100k. The truck picked up a noticeable rotational squeak and a vibe at 55+. The vibration came on almost instantly with no lead up. Had the tires balanced just in case, but did not solve it. The squeak sounded exactly like one on YouTube who had bad U-joints so I figured it was that or the play in the CB.

Called the local shop and they quoted me $750 (4hrs labor - NE truck so worried about rust). Most people said Toyota just replaces the whole shaft. Looked it up and could buy a whole brand new driveshaft for $770 in NH so tax free... Thought about that but ultimately decided to try and repair it myself

I went with the

$28 5-1330x U-Joint Kit 1330/SPL25 Series (OSR)

5-1330x (Non-greasable -- I know I am lazy and likely will not grease them as I should (and did not...)) and a Spicer CB. Ordered from RockAuto as they had the best price. Shipped via DHL which ended up being overnight. Also ordered a Ball Joint/U Joint Press from Amazon (one of the ones that looks like a big c-clamp). I don't have a big bench, so I didn't want to deal with hammering the joints. If you have an impact I think this press is definitely worth the price. All in was about $200.

Process was pretty straightforward, and not particularly hard, but did take some time. About 5hrs working time (I am not the fastest) - which equated to most the day, once lunch and break were factored in. Rock Auto sent me 1 greasable U-joint which I decided to install, but then dropped a needle bearing so I had to run to Advanced to pick up a replacement. All done and bolted back up and the vibe and squeak are gone. It was definitely the U joint as the rear most one was toast.

Would I do it again? No... for me my time is worth more. I am kinda glad I did it... but if I had to do it again I would just buy a whole new shaft and would have been done in and hour... Someone would probably buy the old shaft for a couple bucks to keep as a trail spare and the price difference at that point just isn't worth it.

Just throwing my 2cents into the mix here.

 

what happens if i wait to long to fix the truck? worst case scenario?

 

Trans output shaft bearing and seal goes losing your trans
then drive shaft breaks and you pole vault the rear end and need a new frame/diff is needed

 

Need imput. I just had carrier bearing replaced and it's been making a humming noise and now it doesn't sit center anymore its droopy and off center. Normal ? Do they always sit dead center all the time?

 

No not always centered, but they should sit "neutral". Ie no tension on the rubber forward or aft. Thats why the slots are there

 

Thank you for the details and photos.

 

Thank you. Come to find out they didn't torque a bolt on the drive shaft. Sad because I took it to a driveline specialist lol

 

Apparently they specialize exclusively on driveshafts. Better to find a shop that ALSO specializes in nuts and bolts.

 

Next time I have someone touch my baby again ill have to see if they are qualified to operate a torque wrench and count to 4

 

seems that skill is not as pervasive as it used to be.

 

I have a 2014 LBDC. I will be replacing the carrier bearing unit and for the three U-joints, greaseable Dana Spicer, are those Part #

$20 5213X Spicer 5-213X U-Joint Kit 1330 Series (OSR)

5213X on rockauto.com? TIA