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dash lights on won’t start, new owner of a gen 1 tacoma

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by davidgum, Aug 14, 2023.

  1. Aug 14, 2023 at 8:08 PM
    #1
    davidgum

    davidgum [OP] New Member

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    David
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    over the past few weeks i’ve recently purchased a 2001 toyota tacoma sr5 4x4 extended cab, everything runs great on the truck i had to drive it back a few hours after purchasing it did amazing on the drive and over the next coming weeks. Sometime around last week it would be a hit or miss wether it would start first try, it’s never left me stranded i am still able to get the truck to turn over and start .
    ALL dash lights are lit during the attempts no sounds just silence sometimes it turns over and starts immediately some times i have to turn the key a few times. the clutch start cancel option will start the car first try no turning over, no fiddling the last day or so i’ve been able to start the car with the clutch and ignition at the same time but if i clutch first key second it will take a couple tries, maybe the ignition switch ? tomorrow i’m going to take apart the dash and see if i can clean any connections as well as my starter connections just incase, any advice ? THANK YOU!
     
  2. Aug 14, 2023 at 10:15 PM
    #2
    Digiratus

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    It does not sound like its an issue with the key/ignition switch since it is working correctly when you use the clutch cancel button.

    There is a safety switch on the clutch pedal that allows the starter motor to engage that is activated when you depress the pedal That switch is what you should troubleshoot. The clutch cancel button just bypasses that safety switch.
     
    TnShooter and davidgum[OP] like this.
  3. Aug 14, 2023 at 10:47 PM
    #3
    redneck_adjacent

    redneck_adjacent Well-Known Member

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    TL;DR

    I suspect your clutch depression sensor is the issue. However, here are some things which you should check (or test) in ascending order of effort if that is not your issue:
    1. Check the connection of the starter solenoid wire harness connector
    2. Test your starter relay
    3. Bench test your starter
    4. Carefully monitor the operating temperature of your engine bay while driving, especially on hot days, using a Scangauge2

    NE;NM
    1. OEM and aftermarket starters for first generation Tacoma's vary in size. Some are a little small; some are a little big. In any case, these starters differ primarily in length. The starter solenoid wiring harness was designed with the original Denso starter in mind. You might see where this is going: the previous owner (if not you) might have replaced the OEM starter and extended the OEM wiring harness with a small wire in order to accommodate a smaller starter; it's possible that wire harness extension fell out of place due to vibration. In any case, do yourself the favor of moving the splash shield (in your driver's side wheel well on the 4 cylinder; passenger's side wheel well on the 6 cylinder) aside and evaluate the starter solenoid connector.
    2. Pull your starter relay out of the factory fusebox. Remember to move the small black plastic clip to the side for removal, and yank the relay from the bottom with pliers. Test pins one and two for continuity using a voltage meter. A correct value should be around 75 ohms. Next, if you have a bench power source - test the relay. Use your ears. Do you hear a click? Next, use your eyes. Does your voltage meter read a value of about 12V from the relay?
    3. There are many threads out there concerning bench testing a starter so I will not reiterate the process here.
    4. High temperatures have a deleterious effect upon electronics. You might notice that a hot engine does not start so readily as compared with a cold engine. While this problem is somewhat intractable, there are many ways of minimizing engine bay temperatures or withstanding high temperatures: larger (1/0) gauge wires for battery cables, exhaust manifold wrapping (and silicone spray), fiberglass / silicone sheathing for wiring harnesses, hood scoops, and many, many more.
    Closing Thoughts

    I think your clutch depression sensor is the problem. However, if that is not the case - it does not sound to me like your battery is dead. So, I would proceed with the diagnostic process by evaluating the starter / ignition system before the alternator.
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2023
    davidgum[OP] likes this.
  4. Aug 15, 2023 at 12:34 PM
    #4
    davidgum

    davidgum [OP] New Member

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    David
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    the clutch safety switch was about $40 with a lifetime warranty and it’s starts right up now ! thanks for the help
     
    RedManRocket, Digiratus and TnShooter like this.

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