Clutch chirp 2nd gen.

Who has used the Urd throw out bearing upgrade? Is it worth it? Has it lasted and solved the problem?
Is the issue fixed in the ‘12-‘15 manual transmissions? Thinking about swapping. More money but less headache and peace of mind.

 

150K on my 2011 chirped from new in cold weather still going strong.

 

General consensus says it will eventually come back and start chirping again.
Sure it “helps” some. But keeping the free play adjusted is another key to making the TOB last longer.
It also doesn’t help that the RA60 doesn’t use a pilot bearings.

 

Why? They are not connected and free play is not adjustable.

 

Mine has chirped forever but I don’t think it chirps anymore at 215K.

 

Mine has 193k I just purchased it and thought it was a pulley. Just now figuring out what it is. This is going to be a dog hunting truck so it’s going to get rode hard. Wondering if I should just find a newer year trans that has this problem fixed or is this just a noise that isn’t going to lead to premature failure in the middle of nowhere?

 

I ran the URD kit for ~50k miles without any issues. The snout of the trans looked fine when I installed it around 160k FWIW. I don’t think it’s a big deal but the chirping can be annoying and the URD kit fixed it for me. I doubt it’ll fail catastrophically either way.

 

I’m pretty sure they’re still using the same garbage design in 3rd gen

switched to CM HydroTOB. Despite the occasional tiny leak from the bleeder valve, and squeaking, it works.

I picked up the hardware kit for Tilton HydroTOB with intent to switch to that later. In case the hardware kit stops being made but the Tilton is still made I will at least have that.

yes the URD is bigger. But the problem is
1. Stock setup deploys TOB at an angle not straight
2. Stock setup quill is non serviceable while it should be. Technically URD addresses that
3. Stock TOB is constantly spinning, URD may or may not change that. There’s a specific type of grease and technique to help with that.

it’s worn out and can fail any day now, not “still going strong”

the master cylinder is adjustable behind the clutch pedal via the threaded rod and two nuts

 

So it was worn out when new? The rod only changes the stroke I kind of think Toyota got it right from day one.

 

Here's info on the best current fix in addition to a lot of important info about the issue with the RA clutch.

6MT throwout bearing and clutch system shenanigans | Tacoma World

 

Waste of money....I did it and it came back in less than a month

 

it was incorrectly designed and still is

no

 

150K same bearing. From day one little noise when cold. It will get a new one when I replace the clutch probably around 250K or so. If it ain't broke don't fix it.

 

I installed the URD TO bearing upgrade kit at 170k miles, it lasted until it failed around 360k miles. I'm putting another one in.

 

I was licensed 63 years ago Have had tons of car/trucks several have had the same sort of clutch noise and lot of the older ones never made it to 50K.

 

I have installed the URD kit on both trucks this past year. Solved the chirping in my 06 and feels smoother. I also installed it in my 2011 recently eventho that one wasnt making noise. But I already had the trans out so I figured I might as well do it.

 

so: edit, I may be wrong
From what I’ve read they put a replaceable TOB on 16-23 manual

it’s interesting coming from “unreliable” German cars that have a replaceable $30 TOB and don’t have this issue. Some models definitely are unreliable. Like B8 A4 2.0T award-winning engine for worst engine ever made. But some are bulletproof. Iron blocks that can go fast all day. Certain German brands when they miss, they stop. Or they keep making revisions to fix it.
To my knowledge Toyota did this design for 10 years straight and didn’t make a fix.