Bilstein 6112/5160 setups

Nope

 

Had mine installed April 2020 when my truck had 48k on it. It now has 120k and these shocks have held up great so far! There’s some wear on the shock body as expected but overall no issues. Looks like the isolators have some cracks from normal wear/heat, so I’ll probably have to replace those at some point. I shouldn’t have to worry about new shocks anytime soon, hopefully? These are the old style ones with a lot less notches on them (6?).

 

Nice topper

 

Couple of questions if it's OK
Are they hyperdipped stock wheels ? They look really good
Also are those 265/75R16s KO2s ? They also look good
Last - is that a mild viper cut to the front bumper ?

Really nice rig - I'm trying for that look.

 

Thanks! It has been one of my favorite upgrades for sure!

Thanks!

They are the stock OR wheels, I had them powdercoated. I didn't want to spend more money on new wheels when I liked the stock ones. I just didnt like the chrome and I did try the vinyl to black them out but I am much happier with the powdercoated look.

The tires are 265/75/16 Falken Wildpeaks.

And no viper cut, maybe it just looks that way from the angle or from the SSO bumper.

 

THX

I want to keep my OR wheels as well - I like the off set for one reason and they look OK IMHO except for the chrome spokes. Maybe powder coat is the way to go although I have been considering plastidip or hyperdip.

 

Thinking about dropping from Op3 Icon RXT down to Op2

need to swap HD springs onto 6112 front and raise it
Is max clip height ideal? Or one down below that on right side, for taco lean?
Will it cause positive camber?
I hope not. 6112 advertises like 2-2.5" lift. I think positive camber kicks in at 3".

Does anyone know the best tools for removal?
Specifically, the hex stud, and counterholding top nut
I don't want to butcher mine with pliers and barely fit a wrench
Socket would block pliers

I'm gonna look for a new battery for my dead measuring caliper
to measure the stud hex, see what it is, and find a socket for it. Or tiny wrench. I don't think my regular tools go that small, let alone hex. What I have is probably 12pt that would strip it.

Usually there's counterhold sockets out there specifically made for shock nuts, that are a pass through design.

I plan to use this kind of compressor for the springs.
Has anyone used this successfully before?
Can it be used on the truck, if later more adjustments are needed?
Or perhaps another way to unload the spring, while still on truck, to adjust circlips?

 

I never tried those compressors yet, honestly, it was really easy to do it through the lower control arm and a jack

 

I use that style weekly as a mobile mechanic. works great. SPC makes a set with rubber boots if you don't want to scratch up the coils.

 

That's the type I've been using for years and they work like advertised. Plus, they're not nearly as sketchy as the standard ready-rod ones you usually see home users with.
They are still a giant spring under crazy tension, so play safe kids

 

Your good. Positive camber doesn’t kick in. Alignment is key IMO. A good tech will align rig according to your specs. IMO I would leave option 3 incase you decide to add more weight down the road.

 

Planning to go the 6112 and 5160 route, I’d love some expert insight.

I have a go fast camper with constant bed weight around 300lbs. Loaded for trips it will be more- probably 600lbs Total and sometimes more.

My plan is 6112’s up from set for 1.7” of lift - I think that is 10/8?.

Then the Icon RXT leaf pack on option 2 in the rear. Thinking that will net me close to the same 1.7” to maintain factory rake on a daily basis, leveling out when loaded.

With the 5160’s I’m seeing max lift of 1.5 in the rear, but also seeing lots of people running this? Extended brake lines necessary? Recommended starting shims or bearing drops to go along with this for a DCSB?

welcoming any feedback on this plan, and hoping for a setup that will handle well on road, carry some weight well, be able to take larger ruts and bumps at higher speed than the factory OR suspension.

 

i'm running the exact set up




I am running a Bilstein set up also

For the front I have mine at 11/9 in the front front. ride is still decent.( I seen people also get a spacer for the driver side for the lean) so you could run even numbers left and right

As for the rear I did, Icon aal 1.5 and also kept the overload spring on (about 1.75/2" inches total) ride a bit stiffer (I did a bigger lift because I felt that the leaf spring will SAG eventually).. I've noticed if I have a load in the rear it feels a lot better . I just recently had about eight 5 gallon buckets of dirt in the bed and the bed(mabee 450lbs) it rode really smooth.. that dropped it down about an inch

did not do a drop kit or any shims and it runs fine

i've also heard that you could put tundra 5160 rears on the Tacoma for more travel if you wanna look into that

 

agreed! I spent many a weeks hemmin n hawin' while I waited for my buddy to have time to help install, and glad I went with option #3. I have a Decked and fiberglass topper.
@memario1214 is a good guy too, give him a shot!

 

Where can I buy preassembled 6112/5160 setup with everything I need?

 

suspensionlifts.com

 

If I go with the 6112 set at 2” and the 5160 I do need to go with something like the Icon AAL 1.5” correct?

 

Colton @memario1214 should have them or get them quick