No a/c

I have a 2017 Tacoma sport a/c just instantly stopped while idling blows air not cold 51000 miles never been touched garage says compressor and wants 3200 to replace everything! No loss of Freon any ideas (aftermarket,should I have it looked at somewhere else?

 

we'd just be guessing here, I would get it to another shop you can get good recommendations on.

 

If an a/c compressor is replaced, the only way to have warranty attached to the new one is by replacing other components in the system and flushing out the rest, hence the high estimate. Not sure if the Taco has a similar compressor design to other models, but I have had multiple Toyota's with non functional compressors where the one sensor built into it fails to read properly and for those models they do sell an aftermarket sensor, or if you are really hurting for money simply putting a tiny magnet on the snap ring that holds it in place will restore the sensors readin and make it operate. Now if the clutch itself failed or something internal is actually damaged (internal damage seems unlikely at that mileage) then that's a different story

 

This

 

you check that relay? is the AC light flashing?

 

I had a shop insist on replacing my compressor when I knew I had a refrigerant leak. I even told them to find the leak on the work order. So, def get a second opinion from a reputable shop to be sure of the diag.

 

In the mean time, clean/replace your cabin air filter. Every once in a while, mine gets gunked up and it goes from cold A/C to very much room temp air quite suddenly, and costs max like $15

 

Where do you live?

There's a TSB regarding ACs for those who live in hotter climates. Basically, when idling in extreme climates, the engine fan and air flow isn't enough to cool the condenser so the AC stops blowing cold (or cold enough) air. I believe TSB installs a larger condenser and an electric fan to cool it.

 

this sounds common. Leaks can require time and skill to find. A new compressor requires swapping out more components,,,, just as much, if not less time, bigger bill. See what's happening?

It seems we are in disposable time with automotive repairs too. General census is; F it, replace it and bill the customer. But, do you think techs and service writers just throw parts (at A/C compressor values, AND they don't pay markups!) at their personal repairs? If you have to ask yourself, you are at the wrong shop.

 

Another 200.00 and still no a/c does this sound right? Any ideas?

 

When a compressor fails, FOD can be introduced into the rest of the system, so it makes sense that they're also suggesting to replace the condenser and flush the lines.

 

Seems a little steep for diagnosis but every shop has their own labor rate and amount of time they charge for such things. So the clutch engages and spins with the compressor but there is no cold air coming out? It doesn't mention them recovering the refrigerant to measure how much was actually in the system, a simple pressure check means nothing compared to physically recovering the system to know what's actually in there

 

Man, I was lucky this summer, when I brought it in to the garage. Paid for A/C test and all it needed was more freon. They couldn't find any leaks.

 

A/c leaks are tough to pinpoint unless dye was previously added. Even refrigerant sniffers aren't always able to pick up a small leak. In most cases looking for a dried up oily buildup around the lines, condenser, and compressor is the best hope for finding the leak. Refrigerant doesn't evaporate so if the system was low there is a leak somewhere, even if it is a very slow leak. Hopefully they added a small amount of dye in case it leaks enough to require another charge next summer. The hardest leak to trace is the evaporator, if there is dye in the system it can be identified by looking at the condensation that drips out for traces of dye mixed in with that.

 

I would have like to have seen the tech independently self power the compressor. But, it looks to be a valid diagnosis. You definitely need a full system flush and new expansion valve at minimum due to likely metal contamination. Anytime a compressor internally fails, it can contaminate the entire system with metal. Depending on how bad the compressor fails, it can potentially require replacement of ALL AC components - can get very expensive.

 

My concern is in their wording on the work order, clutch activates but compressor shaft not spinning could mean that the clutch moves inward but not far enough to engage with the pulley and spin with it, therefore not spinning the internals of the compressor. My question to the OP is do you have a long time trusting relationship with the shop or was it a situation where you went to the first place available to look at the issue?