Bilstein 5100s

OME nitrocharger sport. If you want to believe what some are saying here, you can use Dobinsons coils. To be honest, the 5100s are nothing special

 

My neighbor"s sagged and he hates the forums. This is not the first time I have heard they have problems and just hearing people complain is enough for me. I'm happy your are working out for you.

 

Good call on this one

 

Hey!
I'm running 5100's in the front at full 2.5" with factory coils, it feels okay at best and will do for a while.

BUT in the back, I have super super blown-out factory 4600's with a decent ICON leaf pack. (one side literally doesn't even work at all... all oil gone lol)

I'm in need of new rear shocks and looking for help! I think I want the rear 5100's to match but with the rear leaf pack lifting the back 2+" will I need anything special when ordering the 5100's? Like a spacer on the actual shock or something?

Thanks!

 

If money isn't an issue, do this. Well, you could do something way overkill if money isn't an issue, but if you want the best overall bang for the buck this is a very good approach. I have the 5100s in the front, stock coils on top perch and Icon RTX option 2 in the rear with 5125 rear shocks for an all around 2" lift and it rides really well. Pretty much like stock but seems a bit better on potholes, speed bumps, corners, etc. and does just fine for the off roading I do in the rocky Rockies.

 

I went through all this last year and I think what you will want are 5125 shocks with part number

$112 33-230337 Monotube Shock Absorber, 46mm

33-230337. The straight 5100s are for a 1" lift in the rear and the 5125s are extended and better for 2-3" lifts. Here's my thread with most of this info in there https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/alternative-to-5100s-5125s-for-rear-lift.770865/

 

If I want just upgraded shocks but not necessarily a lift or want to mess with potentially chasing driveline vibrations, are 5100s still the go-to on all four corners of a SR?

 

yes

 

I had Icon RXTs w/ 5100s - rode and installed just fine.

 

When you guys are installing the 1.5" Icon AAL, is that with or without the overload spring? I have some say leave it in, and some say to remove it. Which option gives you the actual 1.5" lift?

 

Thanks for the input!
I found a super cheap full set of the TRD badged 5100's (front and back for $200 w/1300 miles on them in town!!). It rides sooo much nicer now. I'll run the 5100's' with the ICON RTX leafs on the second setting until they're mad and done. I'll keep those 5125 shocks with part number

$112 33-230337 Monotube Shock Absorber, 46mm

33-230337 in mind for when the 5100s die haha

 

I took out the overload spring and I still gained about 1.5" of lift.

 

I installed rear 5100 paired with the stock leafsprings and got no lift at all. It was for leveling with front 5100 at 1.75" setting. Right now im actually looking for a drop-in leaf-pack without blocks that would level with front 5100 at 2.5" setting.

 

Right. The rear shock doesn't give any lift. That is done with different springs.

I used the Icon RTX leaf pack to get my lift in the rear. Option 2 gives me a little bit of rake which is nice for when I add stuff I'm not squatting. I'm on the top perch of the 5100s in the front.

 

Oh ok gotcha. So no need for blocks with the Icon RTX leafpacks? Does option1 provide a lift?

 

I recently install 5100's all around, no front shock adjustment, and Eibach 2" coil over. No AAL.. The truck is perfectly level. Running 275 70r17 with no OR rubbing . this seems to be an excellent solution for me.

 

Yes but depends on how much weight you have back there. I have a topper so option 2 made more sense.

 

Ordered my 5100s for both front and rear. I want to maintain and keep a smooth / sporty ride as it’s my daily. I’m just looking for a nice stance.
Should I keep my stock springs in order to keep my warranty ?
Also do I need to change my upper control arms ?

 

I'm sub'd for the info!

 

SR5 trim coils are not something you want to keep.
Someone will tell you those are 700 lbs coils, providing zero proof.
Unless you place your oem coils on 0 setting, you may get lucky with the warranty. But why would you do that?
Check you steering rack driver's side boot before molding the suspension. Address it 1st if there are signs of wetness.
They'll definitely deny after the mods.

If you stay within 2" lift, you most likely won't need a warranty. However, expect a noise from front diff needle bearing