First Week with My New Tacoma Sport and Which Fumoto Drain Valve Should I Buy?

not it (oem skid ) doesnt extend back to the oil pan. I wouldnt go with the long nipple version.

 

OEM "skid" is a splashguard, lightweight. TRD is a better option for protection (gravel drives, camping roads) without going "mod-crazy".

 

Looks like the oil should just drop into my pan. This is how I did it on my last two Jeeps...

 

I believe the Off-roads skid plate extends the same length as the TRD Skid Plate, so you can use the Fumoto w/long nipple without too much worry. The stock skid plate is pretty thin though. Trd Sport and below only have the front splash guard, and no protection over the oil pan.

 

Straight down, mostly, yes. But it comes out fast, thin oil. I have a Fumoto on my OR because I do not want to splash the oil all over the top of my engine skid when just a plug is unscrewed. The tube I can put on the short-nipple directs oil away from the vehicle, even if it takes longer than an open hole on the bottom of the pan.

 

None of em

 

It comes out fast when warm. I've had it ricochet all over the F'ing place.

 

While we are on the subject of oil changes, can someone recommend an oil filter socket? Saw this guy on YouTube but when I clicked on the link for the oil filter socket, the link took me to Amazon and the socket looks different than the one he was spinning.

 

MotivX

 

+1 for MotivX
Have been using their kit since I got my truck.

$75 Motivx Tools Oil Filter Wrench, Drain Tool, and Advanced Engine Oil Funnel Set for Toyota & Lexus 2.0L - 5.7L Engines With Cartridge Style Systems

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0791MWXDC

 

MotivX

 

X3

Definitely worth the purchase. Fits and works flawlessly.

 

Nice---looks like a nice product. I will order the kit. Most of my driving is highway; probably looking at a good 225 miles tomorrow. When should I dump the oil for my first change? I was trying to make it fit with my two free changes from Toyota at around 10,000 miles and 20,000 miles. With my Wrangler, I changed the synthetic oil and filter every 6000 miles and rotated the tires at 5000 miles. I could change the oil at 4000 miles and then just get on my "regular" schedule of oil changes every 6000 miles but I wasn't sure if I wanted to wait that long on the first change…

 

I use the fumoto valve with no nipple, all the ones they make now are high flow from what I understand. I open the valve up and let it drain and do the oil filter. By the time the oil filter is done all the oil is drained.

Every 5k I will do the oil, filter, tire rotation and grease my leafs and UCA, never took it back to the dealership since the day i picked up the truck.

 

I hate to start the standard debate, but change all your oils after a break in period just like the old days. There are many threads detailing people’s experiences with their Diffs, xcases and trannys. I wish I had done mine earlier that I did. Engine 500-1000 miles, diffs and xcase 4-5000 miles and manual trans the same, AT check the level yourself (dealer will be hesitant to do so, do to the difficulty). Drain into a clear container to clearly see what you have. Just my opinion, others will differ greatly. My rear diff was good, front diff was very dirty, iirc the xcase was also dirty at 20,000 miles.

 

X4

 

Latest gas cap update: I reinstalled the OEM cap but the CEL stayed on over the last two or three days. Luckily, my local dealership (not where I bought the Taco) was able to get me in within one day. They cleared the codes and since it wasn't a "Toyota issue," I ended up with the bill ($95.35 with tax). Lesson learned and I guess at least for now, I'll keep driving with a non-lockable gas cap. I think someone already said this but geez, for what these things cost, couldn't they have thrown in a secure gas cap? After all this, I guess I'm still a little gun shy about the Stant...