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Such a beautiful setup. All I got is a bunch of taped up wires lining the side with S1 pods hanging off the sides.

 

Thanks. Been working toward it forever I have finally had some time while recovering from shoulder surgery, so actually getting around to doing a few things.

Boy, where to start? I have 2 relays under the hood that power the roof side lights (the SSC2's). They have independent triggers, hence left/right control. The on/off switches are in my overhead console. Left side, and right side. Those switches are fed via a battery signal, so I can turn them on even if the truck is off. For scene lighting or whatever.

I do have a battery circuit up there, but it is only going to be used for the brake (wait until you see the rear set up ) All the wires to the roof are run between the cab and the bed (I have a topper, so it helps hide them). There are 15 wires total going up there including the 4awg grounding cable. I am wiring the backlight on these (all amber) to function with the turn signals. So going to the roof I have:
1. Left roof lights (the SSC2 Sports)
2. Right Roof lights (same SSC2 Sport)
3. Left Turn
4. Right Turn
5. Battery
6. Ground
7/8. Roof forward facing driving lights. They are Diode Dynamics Stage Series 12". Two of them.
9/10. Auxiliary reverse lights. Two DD SSC1 Pros with Amber backlight hooked to the turn signals as well
11. Brake Tap (to trigger my brake light, which is made up of 6 VLED 6" Red light bars)
12. Camera power
13. DRL
14. a low beam circuit. Kind of like parking lights, but only on with the low beams
15. parking lights

The last three (13, 14, 15) are for a future project. 7/8 and 9/10 get two wires because I am using a deutsch 12 pin under the truck as a disconnect, and it only goes up to 14awg.

Now, as to the knob buttons. It kind of depends on what else is being done.
So lets start with nothing else going on, just the truck on, no headlights or anything. The buttons don't do anything. Simple enough
Now scenario 2, truck is running, and parking lights are on: The left button will trigger the left ditch light and the left cornering light (a fog light mounted low, aimed at a 45ish angle from the front corner that also comes on with the left turn signal). Right button does the same thing, just the same lights on the right.
Scenario 3, I have an "enable" button to add the left and right roof lights (the side SSC2s) to the above mentioned in scenario 2.
Scenario 4, the truck is running and in reverse. Regardless if the parking lights are on, the left shifter button will trigger a camera mounted on the left back corner of the rack, looking to the side, not back. What I am calling my "peek" cameras for reversing out of parking spaces since the topper kind of kills the vision. Same thing for the right button.
Scenario 5, the truck is running and I hit that front camera button. Now the left shifter button will trigger a camera in the left mirror, looking forward toward the front left corner of the truck. A clearance camera if you will. Same thing for the right button, just a camera in the right mirror.
And lastly(? I don't think I forgot any) scenario 6. The truck is on, parking lights are on, gear doesn't matter. Pressing both left and right buttons quickly (under 2/3 of a second, so just a tap) will turn on the high beams as well as all the forward (including ditch lights) facing white lights. So two Stage series 12" on the roof rack, a 12" stage series in the scoop, a 30" stage series in the lower grille, two SSC2 Pros that are ditch lights. Basically maximum forward lighting. When tapped together, the buttons act as a latching switch. So one tap turns all that on until both buttons are tapped again to turn it off. If you press both buttons and hold them down for longer than that 2/3 of a second, then they act as momentary switches and turn on all that as long as they are held, and turn off when you let go.
And I should mention those two other camera buttons up there are for blind spot type cameras. One left, one right. Those come on with the turn signal, but I can "anytime" them with those switches. Those will be mounted toward the front of the cab rack looking back down the side of the truck.

Man, I hope that makes sense? I really suck at explaining things. As to the wiring that drives all this, I think @daveeasa counted 72 relays? I know its somewhere near that. I will be posting more on the rear in the following days. You'll want to see that I think

 

Damn, that is amazing! I now need more lights and more cameras and more wiring. And apparently 72 relays?! You've given me a lot of great ideas, which as we know here on TW, means the wallet and I are no longer on speaking terms. Again.

I got a soft topper and never had a need for Uptop's compatible bed rack...but now I kinda want one so I can put more lights and cameras up there.

Where are you tapping for the turn signals, parking, DRLs, cameras, etc? For the anytime cameras, are you basically adding the same relay switch to trick the HU into thinking you're in reverse?

Based on how you described how you can activate your MAXIMUM LIGHTING mode, sounds like you have some sort of "brain" to manage latching vs momentary?

You wouldn't happen to have a wiring diagram, for inquiring minds?

 

At some point I need to consider a trailer to tow around, just to stick more lights on it
Most of my taps are done at various plugs. Turn signals I grab from the rear (I have an SR, so turn/DRL are combined up front, and I already had a bunch of wires going to the rear), Parking is done through the headlights, DRL is tricky because I don't have a "true" DRL to grab, so I made my own. I added auto headlights to my truck, and DRL are a by-product of sorts of that. Camers are triggered at the stereo. All of these taps and stuff just drive a relay, that way my current demands on stock wiring are kept to a minimum. For the cameras, I used one of these:

$100 Pac Intelligent 4 CAM SWTCHR

Amazon.com: Pac Intelligent 4 CAM SWTCHR : Electronics It adds a delay, so you can use turn signals to trigger it without the cameras flashing on/off. The 4 switches in the overhead operate it, then the shifter switches trigger these:

$26 Intelligent Car Video Switcher 3-way Input 1-way Output for the Car Camera

Amazon.com: Intelligent Car Video Switcher 3-way Input 1-way Output for the Car Camera : Electronics So the reverse camera for example sits on the NC of that switch, then the shifter buttons trigger one of the two other inputs. Could be done with relays as well, but I hate working with 26 gauge wire. And the MAXIMUM LIGHTING is driven by a timer from timers.shop The new V8 have logical triggers. They used to just be one wire for the trigger (blue) but when he changed to a WiFi programming, it opened up the green wire, so you could do blue, green, or both. So both is what I use to drive a trigger that is a secondary trigger to all those relays, turning them all on. As to wiring, I still am cleaning up my "as-builts", but here is most of it


EDIT, that compressed the crap out of them, let me see if I can do better...

EDIT 2. Still looks like crap. Here is a zip of them
EDIT 3: Thanks for the compliment as well. It's been a lot of planning. I did a good 90% of the wiring in one shot, so there is a single run to the back, a single run to the passengers side, etc... Tried to keep it as clean as I could.

 

Holy shit that is insanely good planning.
I might have to take some time to rip everything out and do it all at once with a box up top or in the bed...

 

Just a small update if anyone cares. Started wiring on the big junction boxes.

These are on the cab rack. The boxes are brazed to the 1” X 1.5” aluminum tubes that serve as conduits (and lend some reinforcement to the sides as I cut some away for the SSC2 lights). The boxes with lids sit 1/8” below the cross bars.

 

Damn, what a beauty.

 

Thanks. I'll get some pics of the Diode Dynamics 12" bars up front tomorrow. Hoping to finish wiring the rack for the shell tomorrow, maybe.

 

What Deutsch connector(s) did you get? Putting an order together at Mouser and they have nothing short of a micro-infinitude of options available.

What are your junction boxes made of? I've used ABS project boxes before (have one in the bed). I see a bus bar and some terminal blocks and some cable glands. Not to mention you have a crapton of relays and probably 69 miles of wiring. You wouldn't happen to have a BOM, or screenshots of purchases, would you? I do apologize for hounding you with questions but appreciate your assistance as I try to wrap my brain around recreating something similar to your success.

 

Wonder if they are ever coming out with the Ute. Haven’t seen anything out of it. Maybe due to the 4th gen release.

 

By random chance does anyone have a wind deflector with a light bar cutout? I have a blank one. We could trade or I’d buy outright.

Thanks,

greg

 

I got a universal on the bst.

 

I have one.

 

I'm selling my alpha roof rack if anyone is interested..

 

@upTOPoverland Are you guys doing R&D for a table mount for the bed rack system, I want one.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8EL0xeGRqR4
https://www.kaon.com.au/roof-rack-table-slide-mount

I was thinking something like this... for use with readily available tables, and not paying through the teeth for the frontrunner table & mount.

 

Nice! that's a good find. Mounting any tables is a plus. Similar to this one that I found. I emailed for more info on mounting but no reply.

https://pakrax.com/collections/overland-accessories/products/pakrax-table-mount

 

Are you guys *ever* going to release your zulu access cab roof/bed rack?

 

Just curious if anyone’s heard from @upTOPoverland recently…

 

upTOPoverland was last seen:
Oct 14, 2022