TORSPD: NEVR

These little bundle of joy.

 

So smol...

 

Wiring harness lazily strewn about.



Alternator plug swapped back to OEM.



Jumper wire from the starter to the alternator. Drilling those wire clamps out, is always tricky. I used a step drill bit with light pressure and a high speed.

 

@Torspd @Lucario Runner , does the oil filter bracket attach to the timing chain cover with only one O-ring around the outer port? No FIPG around the inner port?

 

correct

 

thank you!

 

When you guys are ready to start a fresh engine I wanted to see what your procedure is, since @Torspd and @Lucario Runner have the most experience with these engines. do you physically disconnect the injectors and coils then crank till you see oil pressure or are there fuses or relays that you pull, etc.

 

Just pull the fuel pump fuse and crank it. If you want you can disconnect the injectors as well. Do it a couple times then give the starter a breather then crank it some more. Preferably with an oil psi gauge you can see if the engine gets pressure after a while. But a minutes worth or priming should be enough. If wanting a visual w/o gauge then pull one of the valve covers, passenger side is the easiest.

 

Teaser.

 

Is it possibly a Tacoma turbo manifold that has been coated ???

 

That it is.

 

Turned out very nicely. If you look closely, you can see how the inside is coated as well. They did a great job as usual.











Here you can see the cross-over. Should I make these for any interested buyers, this is how I'll have it mate to the driver side. As it simplifies installation.







The stopping point for the evening.



Most importantly, after I install the down-pipe, the truck will be drivable again. That makes me happy. I doubt it will sound any differently. I am curious if there will be an change in performance though?

 

There was only one hiccup last night during the installation of the turbo. The two bolts closest to the valve cover would not go in.



Either the welds were interfering with their length, or it was just the design of the merge. Regardless, a burr bit on the die grinder made some quick angled reliefs, and problem no more. Never even thought to test that prior to install.

So two things with the truck need to happen after it is drivable. Get new rear tires, and get it tuned. I may throw in a better transmission first, as that will change the load characteristics. But tuning is coming soon!

 

This is pretty cool. The BRZ owner had purchased a oil cooler setup for the BRZ engine, prior to transitioning to the LS swap. Well the SIKKY kit came with an oil relocation kit, as it is a requirement. The subi oil cooler adapter had a stand off spacer and a differently threaded adapter for the oil filter.

The SIKKY uses 3/4x16UNF. Common for the Tacoma at minimum. Ordered a stainless threaded adapter from Mishimoto, and they two parts fit flawlessly. No spacer.





Test fitted with my GReddy oil filter.

He's super happy because a $23 adapter allows him to keep the oil cooler setup. Which was far more expensive. Winning.

Test fit a header to check oil line routing and where to mount the relocation bracket. The supplied oil lines will need to be cut to length, by what we determined so far. Tidied up the starter wiring, and trimmed a bracket for wiring harness room between the cowl and the rear of the intake manifold.



A few more tedious steps down.

 

Mounted the relocation bracket to the chassis with some M6x1.0 stainless rivnuts. Plenty of room in this location. The supplied oil lines are far too long. They will need to be cut, and have non crimp fittings added, if possible.





Checks that mounting off of the list. I'll call SIKKY today to see what brand on fittings are needed.
Re-routed the harness. Test fit the heater cooler adapter hoses with the intake manifold, and secured them in their best orientation.



Added some corrugated loom and heat tape to the starter wires, and CPS wire. Then checked the header to wiring clearance. It had a lot more than I anticipated.



Next up, this afternoon, is buttoning up the interior. Woot!

 

This was fun. May not be the strongest, but it doesn't even need to be. The sheet metal needed to be cut out to clear the shifter linkage. Well to seal it, there had to be an slight arch maintained. Bring in a strip of Dr.Pepper can. Siliconed down, and then some adhesive sound deadening over the top to keep it together. Shade tree? Absolutely.





The dash is back in. BRZ is starting to look like a car again.

 

Got some Texas sugar in it.

 

Ratrod in training.

 

hey…what did i tell you about using sillycone on cars…tsk tsk