Home Improvement Today?

Thanks! Not sure how I missed your post. The side mount versions were my first choice (liftmaster 8500w specifically), but I'd need to run another outlet. Also, it's kind of pointless as my ceilings are only 8ft. A car lift is out the question.

I'm leaning towards the Liftmaster 87504 or

$296 Chamberlain B6713T Smart Advanced Corner LED Lighting-myQ Smartphone Controlled-Ultra Quiet, Strong Belt Drive & MAX Lifting Power, Blue Garage Door Opener

Chamberlain B6713T at the moment and scheduled a Liftmaster/Amarr consultation through Costco.

 

I’m reasonably happy with liftmaster openers but boy did their “smart” control panel suck. Failed open on me twice before I swapped to old school wall switches.

still nice to have the wall mounted units for headroom when carrying tall stuff or doing work / workouts in the garage. If buying new. Also stuff the tracks as high as possible and follow the roofline.

 

I’m not going back up in the attic so feel free to tell me what I did wrong so I can be sad

Boys bath vent:


Primary bath vent:


I mounted the primary bath vent too tight to the rafter to fit the R6 so I had to use the wimpier stick on stuff for that section. Lesson learned there but no way I’m re-routing it.

 

you're likely to get condensation accumulating at the bottom of the downhill slope of your vent in winter

 

Any way to address that? Slope change? Can you elaborate on potential resolutions/adjustments?

 

I faintly recall something about duct exiting the fan needing to be a certain length before it makes its first curve or bend to prevent condensation buildup. If it were me I'd remove that elbow and make it a slope, but that's purely based upon observation. The flexible insulated duct is a lot easier to work with than rigid too imo.

 

Flex ducting has significant downsides to me and is not what I consider a suitable option. I was quite happy to rip all the old flex out.

https://www.atcoflex.com/uploads/4/9/4/0/49403973/installinstructions.pdf

 

Well, you gotta go with what works best for your application. I still say remove the elbow and make a slope. Maybe @OZ-T can chime in on a solution.

 

We always try to terminate out a sidewall if possible and slope the last section of ducting downhill toward the exterior to drain any condensation accumulation . When roof terminations are unavoidable I make the ducting run as short as possible , use a quality roof duct termination to reduce air seepage around the flapper and insulate with R-12 or R-20 batts wrapped and taped around the vent

 

I'm about to add a 9x8 lean to shed to the house but I have a question about the roof. I am planning on having the peak of the roof where board and batten siding is. Should I cut the smaller sections of the board and batten higher and just run a typical "L" shaped rain guard from the house to below the shingles? or is there a better way to do it? it will be under an eve if that matters.

 

Appliances were finally delivered! Fridge, freezer and range installed today.

 

Home repairs and improvements continue and are thankfully almost done; as required for sale of current home. I bough it new 18 years ago but amazing how much deteriorates over this time period and the effort/expense required to get it back to sellable/closing condition. Early meeting with Realator was very helpful in identifying what needed to be done and where to focus efforts and funds.

o LOTS of repainting (Almost done)
- - Prep work for ^ is the most time consuming and painful
-- inevitably, every room required some drywall work; nail pops, tape seams, cracks etc. (Real PITA)
-- trim and caulking takes longer than the walls and ceilings combined
-- LOTs of tape (I hand cut the celling/trim but still...) (Damn 3m blue tape is now >$8/roll )
-- amazing how much paint the surfaces covered only with the original spray suck up
-- family members will have you paint their room say pink or blue... cool... but remember one day you will have repaint back to a neutral color. most of these rooms required a coat of Kills first
-- the "cheap" ~$29/gal paint is not worth the extra time/effort/2nd coat... bite the bullet and get the higher end ~$40/gal name brand stuff

o Replaced nearly all the light fixtures; dated looking 00's brass fixtures with recessed LEDs etc
-- be warned, behind the builder installed fixtures, probably looks like a murder scene... all modern stuff is much more slim, you will need several hours and drying periods to restore these areas

o When built, most of the exterior trim was pressboard like stuff, NOT pressure treated wood... The bottom 6" or so every every exterior piece touching concrete had to be cut out, repaired etc (Replaced with the new PVC stuff)

o Home inspectors are super picky; definitely work some googling to identify and prioritize repairs (i.e. even a 1" piece of grout missing in the kitchen floor is a "No-Go", even if it does not match 100% use a small/cheap tube of the stuff from Home Depot to patch it)

Thankfully after 6 months of weekends and a few nights each week, the end is in sight... house is under contract and final inspection items are identified. (My luck is usually terrible, but I seem to have gotten away with not having to eat a 18 year old roof and equally dated lower-level (R-22) HVAC system)

 

We're about 1/2 done framing the monster deck

 

Need advice, moved into a trailer home , thinking it has mold but am not certain where it is coming from? Does anyone know if the mobile homes are prone to developing mold in the A/c ducts / vents? … there’s a musty odor in them … if not there then perhaps in the particle board by the restroom ? Any ideas or advice on how to figure out where it is coming from . Thanks

 

a bore scope would let you look in the ductwork, could be the indoor coil/drain pain in the air handler

 

painting seems like an odd requirement for selling a house, as does changing the light fixtures. or are those realtor recommendations?

i've also never seen mis-colored grout hold up a house purchase either...

 

lol, if you saw how they were built, you'd be checking everywhere.

stuff underneath is the first suspect. if it has the typical gable ends, check each ends for delamination into the wall

 

You could pickup a moisture meter from Home Depot and check for damp areas. Did you have an inspection done prior to purchase? Can you call an HVAC company to do an inspection or duct cleaning? If the condensation drain line is clogged the water is probably backing up somewhere and leaking.

 

Need alittle advice on my exterior outward opening french doors that bind when closing.
I've tightened the hinge screws, checked the weather stripping, checked the frame with a square, shimmed the hinge, and the door seems physically fine. But it keeps binding when u try too close it all the way it will spring open unless I latch it and when I do latch it the bottom is flush and the top bows out. Anyone have any idea what's going on here?

 

Too much shim on inside on hinge side? Or framing is twisted on hinge side