Anon Fab vs TC vs OEM LBJ

It's time for my preventative new LBJ and I'm torn on the options... I've read and reread all the info already posted here but thought I'd try to bring it all into one thread. And also hopefully gather some insight for folks like me who depend on their truck but don't wheel like they have/want tons and 40s... but feel free to roast me for bringing this topic up again!

(And FWIW, I'm not trying to start yet another "is a uniball more likely to pull out than a traditional BJ?" discussion!!! By my interpretation, any advantage of a uniball in this situation relies on the larger ball and the geometry of a sphere... the larger the sphere/socket, the greater the mass of material that needs to be removed from the outer radius before the ball will be able to pull out. But obviously both are susceptible to wear and the poor Toyota design of our IFS... and this ignores all other modes of failure- mainly shearing/breaking mounting hardware)

Here's what I have collected so far:

OEM
Pros:
-OEM!
-Cheap
Cons:
-We've all heard the stories....

TC
Pros:
-Solid purpose built body
-Increased shear resistance with the seated center and shear pins
-Improved geometry and relocated TRE
Cons:
-$$$$
-Exposed Uniball (Although TC claims this is actually preferable: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...r-ball-joint-conversion.781536/#post-27950795)

Anon. Fab
Pros:
Cheaper than LC
Uniball dust caps/boots available
Cons:
Reuses OEM/555 body
No added shear resistance besides shear pins

My truck is used as a DD and hunting/camping rig and I don't plan on ever doing any "real" wheeling. Mostly unmaintained 2-track and short jaunts into the prairie. So absolute strength is not a huge factor for me. I mainly want a easy/cheap replacement process when it comes time to replace again, as well as an added peace of mind when I'm doing 80 on the interstate.

Does anyone have any experience/thoughts on the matter?

Unrelated pic of the truck doing what it does best: making for good times off the beaten path.

 

On the Tacoma`s I did went with the Toyota Lower Ball Joints just for the easy access from my local dealer.

Then All the ones I changed every one of them was tight with very little wear when removed.

These Trucks pretty much were used about the same as yours.

 

Thanks for the input! I'm leaning towards OEM, would definitely leave a bunch of cash for some snow tires this winter. I think I've just let all the horror stories get in my head ... but it seems that the OEM are plenty reliable as long as they're not neglected?

 

That is the strange thing these failures to me are very strange .

Hard core off roading all is fine to the get changed out . Daily Driver all road driving that one fails.

Who knows .

Good Luck !!

 

I have seen a replacement OEM LBJ fail catastrophically after 15K miles. The unpredictability and potentially catastrophic result of the OEM LBJ failure is the reason I went with the TC LBJs. IMO The anonymous fab and TC LBJs adresses the biggest issue that is inherent with the OEM LBJs, when the ball joint fails it seperates.

 

Not able to provide a comparison between the brands mentioned but can say myself and other 1st Gen Taco/3rd Gen 4R I wheeled with have all used OEM without issue.

 

Thanks everyone for the feedback!
I'm thinking I'll grab another set of OEM to get me through the winter. I only drive about 5-6000mi a year so hopefully the OEM will last long enough to save/decide if I want to upgrade next time around. And then I can pick up some different goodies with the money I "saved" by skipping the TC this time... seems I'm always looking for a new way to justify spending money on the truck

 

Keep in mind that Anonymous Fab uses a smaller uniball than TC does. If you really wanted to upgrade, I would cross Anonymous Fab off the list and save my money for the TC conversion. Otherwise I'd keep buying OEM ones and check them every offroad trip.

I have been abusing OEM ones for a few years and they're still perfectly good. No play whatsoever. I do plan on upgrading to TC next time I need to change the LBJ's.

 

Good to know! I feel better about the OEM now, I guess I let all the horror stories get in my head. I agree on the TC upgrade, if I'm gonna upgrade down the road I might as well go all the way. I'll probably use that opportunity to reinforce my spindles while I'm at it.

 

For the record, I ordered a set of OEM + bolts last night. Here are the part numbers for future reference. It seems that the part numbers have changed slightly from what others have suggested earlier. Part #43330-39555 is now

$206 43330-39556 Suspension Ball Joint

43330-39556, and 43340-39435 is now

$136 43340-39436 Ball Joint Assembly

43340-39436. (Both increased by 1). Most online dealers show this being a 2WD part but it will work for 4WD also, I called Toyota and confirmed this is the right part #.
Thanks everyone for the input!

 

I always used

$216 43330-39815 Toyota Genuine Parts - Joint Assy, Lwr Ball (43330-39815)

43330-39815 and

$201 43340-39585 Toyota Genuine Parts - Joint Assy, Lwr Ball (43340-39585)

43340-39585 as they came with new bolts

As for 4x2 and 4x4, they're identical (as long as you're talking 6 lug 4x2)

 

Dang, that would have simplified things a little... it looks like it is about $10 cheaper to buy separately though.

 

Gotcha, I found it cheaper with the part numbers I provided but it also depends where you buy them from

Yeah I had it in my signature for the longest time; one person in particular was always a bit passive aggressive as he insisted on getting members to buy the latest variant with boots on them so now he can go on his journey to spread the word in every ball joint thread

Yes, the little boots provide some coverage from dirt and debris, but there are many more driving on the OEM set without the boot with no issues to date

As long as they're not neglected like many things on an old vehicle, you'll be fine

Filled with snow, mud, sand, it didn't matter -

 

OEM and check them every oil change. I just paid around 180 for another set and 8 of the black bolts for future replacement. I've driven on long sustained stretches of rough washboard road which is quite punishing and they are solid as a rock.

 

Seems like I need to get better at looking for deals!! My excuse is that I was sick of shopping and just pulled the trigger on what seemed to be a good price (Boch Toyota South). Prices aside, I'm definitely excited to end this mental debate for a while...

I'm glad to hear that you guys have put them through the wringer, It sounds like they will hold up fine for what I plan on doing. It looks like the ones I ordered show a boot in the diagram, so we'll see what shows up.

 

You'll find this topic and many more beaten to death which is why sometimes you won't get a response right away

You're good now though, and will be for awhile!

 

I bought mine from the same place but used part number 04005-03235 instead. It comes as a kit for both sides. Bosch did reach out asking which side I needed but I told them that it is a set and to place the order as-is. You can reuse the castle nut but get a set of new cotter pins at lowes for like 2 dollars. The price difference spread out over all the mileage is negligible frankly.

 

That's kinda what I figured... I was nervous to bring it up again but figured why not. Thanks again for all the help!

 

Thank you for buying new bolts as well. That was definitely a big brain move.

 

All credit to TW! Just going with what y'all have suggested in the 100 previous threads on this topic! I swear I did my research before I brought up LBJ again, I wanted to avoid some of the more common questions if at all possible haha