I need some education

I'm gonna replace the wheels on my 23' SR. I want to confirm the factory wheels are 16x7? The set of American Racing wheels I'm considering are only available in 16x8 which I'm sure will be fine but wanted to check. Also I have 2 choices for offset, 00mm and -25mm. I know it has to do with "poke" but but have no idea which way each choice gives? Also bolt pattern...6 lug so I assume 6xwhat?? I'm seeing like 6x139.7 and 114.xx, I'm lost here.

Anyone know the weight of the stock SR steelies?

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/wheel-specs.30754/

 

@GatorBodine 16X8 will be fine with the 0mm offset and 6-139.7 bolt pattern.

 

For offset- its always the opposite of what I would have thought.

Zero means the centerline of the tire is aligned with the wheel mounting face. A positive offset pushes the tire centerline inboard or deeper into the fender. A negative offset pushes the tire outboard, or gives it "poke."

Most stock wheels are in the neighborhood of +30mm. Dropping it to a 0mm would shift a tire of the same width out by 1 3/16 inches (1.18). For a 265 width tire, the outer sidewall would be just a bugs hair outside of a stock fender flare, or an inch or so outside of a no-flare fender.

Going to a negative 25mm would put a 265 tire about an inch outside of a flare, or 2 inches outside of a bare fender.

I agree with DT on this one, 0mm looks best.

 

I’m glad I see this thread because I’m in the process of replacing my factory steels also.
Can someone tell me what the significance is of the wheel weight?
For example, one wheel I’m considering is 37 lbs and the other one is 22 lbs?
Pros/cons of the wheel weights compared?

I’m looking at Fuel Covert 16” versus KMC KM547’s. This seemed to be a significant weight difference, and the KMC is in stock but the Fuel has to be backordered.

 

I have the 4 cyl so weight of a wheel is a consideration for me. Don't want to bog the little motor anymore than I have to.

 

The wheels do look very similar.

 

You lose power with heavier wheels. I think every pound is 10 lbs of “unsprung” weight. That’s per corner.

 

Rotational weight is the worst kind of weight to add. Keeping rotational weight down is important for acceleration, power and MPGs. OEM Tacoma wheels weigh in the low-mid 20lbs range. A 37lb wheel is ridiculously heavy and I’d advise to avoid. That would be adding around 54lbs of rotational weight vs the standard OR wheel. Ouch. Tire weight also plays a factor too, so you want to look at the wheel tire setup as a whole. If you’re going with bigger meatier tires, you’ll be adding weight there too, so you should try to mitigate the weight gain where you can. Choosing C-load tires instead of E-load if available helps.

 

My tires/wheel combo weigh around 78lbs per corner

currently saving for FN wheels which are about 13lbs lighter than the fuel hostage rims I have.

ETA: correction, 82 per corner….minus lugs

 

That will be a good improvement. Tire weight has slightly more impact than wheel weight since it is further out, good to look for opportunities there too. A lot more lighter C-load options in the 17” wheel size vs 16”. Lugs will be net neutral assuming you’re running the stock ones, since it is the same as stock. I run ultra light titanium lugs on the Tesla, but stock lugs on the Tacoma, the savings are not worth the price on a truck.

 

there’s aren’t many C load options in the tire size I run (275/70/17) and these tires are supposedly lighter than the KO2s they replaced earlier in the year.

KO2s load E I think were 52 lbs and current tires are 48lbs

 

255/75R17 KO2s in C-load are 32.1" and 45.7lbs. That is what I ran for going light weight while pushing 100+ hp over stock for max performance. The truck could pull the rear end free and drift sideways on the highway in the slightest bit of wet while running a detroit truetrac torsion LSD.

 

I'm not a big fan of the 2nd gen appearance but you sir have a nice looking truck.