Brake lines

Does anyone know where you can buy a complete pre bent set of brake lines?

 

Try googling "toyota tacoma brake lines"

 

If you are referring to the hard brake lines- I'd suggest learning to make your own. It's not hard, and there is a much better market to buy the parts to do so than say 15 years ago (when it was hard to find metric parts).

 

From your dealer at a very expensive cost.

 

You should be able to get the front left and right hard lines oem....
prob 30ish a piece......

The rear hard lines are gonna be tricky....because of all the different set ups with ebrake cables and what not...
DIY might be only way......


The main lines that run along the whole frame front to back would have to come off a donor....
can find em on ebay for about $100.......but may already be rotted out inside....

Or as they said......grab a roll of the cu/nickle line and watch videos on how to bend and flare....
Its really pretty easy if you pay attention to the stress relief needed for certain lines.......

 

I just got a complete set of stainless lines (rubber lines not included) from Lines to go. 280.00 Free shipping. It'll be another couple of months before I get to put them in though. They were recommended by a friend who has a set.

 

Thank you all for the info. I agree I could get a roll and make them. I had watched a video on YouTube about changing all the lines on a 2001. I called lines to go and they said the 1997 lines were different than the 2001 as it was there video and they said they didn’t have any or couldn’t make them. Again thank you all for your reply’s. I’ve bent 3/8 copper tubing in the refrigeration business so I would feel comfortable doing that.

 

For hard lines….assuming 1997 Toyota lines are not available
You got 2 choices
-make/fab your own
It’s a PITA….can be done
Just get the best quality line bender tool u can. Shit, I was helping a friend with a 55 old dodge truck…..we got a 7’ line perfectly bent, last angle the shitty tool we were trying to use kinked the last freakin bend. Had to start over.
He threw that $10 pos bender in the ditch. Good flange tool needed too
If u have bent/formed copper tubing, u know what I’m talking about
-other choice is lil un orthodox
But i ‘stumbled’ into it….much easier
Some manufacturers sell hard brake lines for the engine bay as one kit. Assuming the vehicle has ABS….that is a group of hard lines. I know Subaru sells like this
Buy the group and easier to bend/manipulate, also flanges are already done
Length would be the issue

4’ would be the guess of the longest hard line in the kit I bought years ago
(I have used the shortest line 3 times to bench bleed MC’s)
GL

 

I bought a 30” length of cu/nickel and bent the one by hand that was leaking. The original line was 21” long. Just made it longer. Would a longer line in any way affect anything adversely? I had to cut it out with a saws all blade hooked to vise grip as the threaded fittings were too damaged to get a wrench on them so then used a 10mm socket on one and hammered a 9 mm socket on the proportion valve fitting. Worked better than vise gripping them off. It ran from the rear proportion valve to a coupling body mount on the frame which then continued with flexible hose to a tee feeding both rear wheels. I questioned auto parts guys why Toyota had these bends and a coupling connection point when in my mind why didn’t they just run a braided line straight from the proportion valve to tee fitting bypassing that coupling connection. They couldn’t tell me but we all figured there was a reason. One guy told me you should change brake fluid every couple years as it breaks down and can rot the lines out internally too besides road salt rusting the outside.

 

I mean your brake lines are one thing... but the rust is...

 

I hear ya. I’m just trying to get a couple more years out of her. I had to put a low mileage engine in it from Japan about 8 years ago so I bet it only has 70 or 80,000 on it now. Put in two new leaf springs and shocks about 2 years ago. I just bought two plates on Amazon for $50 that I welded on the side rails and beefed up the frame under driver side with 3/8” flat plate so frame should be good to go for a while. I plan on spraying fluid film on the whole underside next. Wish I had known about that product before. These cold winters up north take there toll on vehicles with the salt they put in the roads.

 

OP be like

 

Rust never sleeps

 

Great fucking job man!!!
Congrats

 

Just removed the two 10’ rusted hard lines that ran along frame to back of truck as one of the line connections started leaking. Bought a 25’ roll of copper/nickel 3/16” line and 4 M10 x 1mm fittings. Had to order a double flare insert to use with my single flare tool. Since Im not a mechanic and have done very little mechanic work it’s kind of exciting to do. YouTube videos are a must for me. going to replace brake pads and have rotors turned or replaced if need be. Hopefully I can get them off. You’re an inspiration ControlCar!

 

Ha Ha
I agree with everything but that I’m an inspiration!!!!!!

glad you got it done

 

You can get rid of that proportion valve and put in an old fashion adjustable one...

(133) TOYOTA LSPV DELETE / WILWOOD PROPORTIONING VALVE INSTALL - YouTube


You can get one of the 10' lines.....or ....put the ADJUSTER on the firewall....

 

Now I have learned about what the purpose of a proportion valve is in a brake system which helps me understand the installation of an “old fashioned” wilwood style valve. If the rusty stock one gives me problems I will repipe in one of those. No different than a manual damper system in ductwork to divert air more or less to a space. Thanks again.