Planning my DRL install on my first gen, requesting a once over for my circuit.

Basically the title. I bought a set of Spyder Halos for my first gen and want to wire the LEDs to use as daytime runners. I'd like to be able to toggle them on or off without other lights, but always on with the side markers. Can I get the experts here to review my circuit? The total current draw from the DRLs shouldn't exceed 300mA. The indicator LED is just a way for me to see if the DRLs are on or not since I'll be using a simple Billet switch in the cabin.



For those curious, I'll be using this switch with this custom mount.

 

At IGN, tap to ignition circuit(s) provide fused (5A) power.
Fused (1A) DRL switch actuates relay coil to close. On or OFF.
If DRL switch is OFF and markers ON, NC pin on relay provides power to DRL(s)
Switch LED will not show if DRL is ON with side marker circuit.
It be cleaner to just use the IGN circuit.

 

This is exactly the kind of feedback I was looking for. Thank you!

 

As a friendly suggestion when it comes to creating electrical diagrams, create the diagram exactly how it is physically wired and make use of annotating separate chassis grounds in circuits. Both diagrams above have a shared (spliced) common ground in the circuit annotated by the "dot" within the circuit flow. Most relay coils can flow electricity both ways unless it has a diode built into it.

I fully realize that you won't have it wired exactly like you have it diagram out but on the off chance someone else takes the diagram as a reference...

There needs to be a separate chassis ground for the DRLs and relay coil.

As drawn, if a ground was compromised (because of being spliced together) - there is a potential to backfeed power into the coil from the DRLs. The coil would then ground itself through the indicator LED. Honestly, the relay would probably freak out by cycling off and on very quickly.

one in a million shot that scenario plays out.