Icon rxt leaf pack

How much settling are you guys seeing with the RXT leaf packs?

I installed mine on Option 2 which advertises 2.25" unloaded, 1.75" w/ 200 lb. load.

2nd gen DCLB with a fiberglass cap (~200 lbs), and I'm at about 2.75" of lift after 400 miles or so. Would you guys expect this to settle in to the advertised heights?

 

@jaystellato
Haul some loads of firewood, dead frenz, or auto parts over a few hundred miles of rough road... and let us know.

A senior member of this forum told me: Try something... feel it, adjust, then try again. Experiment.

Jack stands, floor jack, impact drivers, deep sockets, c-clamps are your friends.

 

maybe because my truck is a lighter access cab but im already getting over 3" lift in the rear unloaded. option 2 would be ridiculous rake. and personally me like most people arent doing HEAVY loads or maxing out towing capacity everyday. 95% of the time were unloaded or dealing with a load that option 1 is more than sufficient. il take the better day to day ride quality over some squat when loaded heavy. Also something that probably does play a roll is what shocks are being used. the icon omegas i have with 7/8" shafts have quite a large amount of force to them from the nitrogen charge alone. maybe around 100lbs each pushing the truck upward.

 

I got 2" on option 2 with 300 pounds of extra weight. 18 months in it has not settled at all.

I did a 1.5" lift on the front. When I load up for camping I end up at just about level. Note I camp light, if I have more than 300 pounds of camping gear I would be surprised.

 

I don’t have any lift right now, running a camper shell, rack, awning, and homemade bed drawers (probably 150lbs ish). Would option 1 be plenty for me? Currently sits pretty level until I get more gear in the bed, and I don’t want to lift the front yet either.

 

I'm on option 1 with a very similar set up. i have a little rake with no tent or camp gear, and a little low all loaded up. that does include 230 lbs of dogs though.

 

the icon techs i was talking to when i was comparing stage 7 (3 leaf aal) to stage 10 (rxt) i was told that the rxt pack has a higher spring rate than the oem pack with overload replaced with their 3 leaf add a leaf.

 

the rxt pack on option 1 has a higher spring rate than oem leaf pack. that is before it starts hitting the overload leaf. that thick inverted overload leaf drastically increases spring rate at that point. replacing it with their aal pack causes oem pack to have an overall lower spring rate than the rxt option 1 pack. spring rates arent exactly linear on these so not sure at what point they are measuring and comparing.

 

Is this why they don't even state what the expected lift result would be with any added weight on option 1? I always found that weird.

Sounds like option 1 is pretty much focused on lift and handling performance but specifically with no added weight? Anyone looking to improve with even say 200 pounds should be looking at nothing less than Option 2.

 

Can anyone offer feedback on these liners?https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Flat-Spring-Liners,7471.html

They are half the thickness of the black 2.125” liners that seem to get the most mention. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Leaf-Spring-Liner-with-Lip-2-1-4-Inch,39823.html

With liners should you still use the metal plates and round plastic isolators?

I’m going to install option 2 and don’t really want to add any more lift if I can help it. I realize liners may add some thickness.
Weighing my options; liners, grease, etc…

 

@Danner488 when you assemble the springs, use a plaster spatula or other flat/wide/stiff applicator to get a good fill of grease in the waffles in the round plastic leaf bushings, then use a mini "squeeze" grease gun with a pin tip to inject grease in the bushing port hole frequently. You want to avoid too much friction on the leaf bushings or the waffles will wear down and become useless.

 

I'm carrying 400 lbs consistently (go fast camper, drawer build-out, and compressor) and top out at 600 lbs on trips that total around 4 months of the year in my 2015 access cab. With 400 lbs on my stock suspension, my front and rear are even height but it sagged on the rear when I was around 550 and bottomed out on bumps. I drive a lot of rough dirt roads for work during those 4 months with lots of highway driving in between. Is level 2 the way I should go, or should I compromise the daily driving comfort and go to level 3? Everything is stock on my rig.

 

see my post #1807 in this thread, and I quoted myself from earlier to tie all info in together.
I am about 335# with a Decked and a fiberglass topper and went with stage 3, and I am very happy, but also happy I didn't do stage 2 and have to pull it all apart again.

 

That's perfect because I bought them lightly used and they're already set at stage 3. Did you do a carrier bearing drop or axle shims? I read about drive line vibration.

You digging the bump stops still? I was thinking of doing that but wondered if they would be worthless with the level 3 set up.

 

I have the carrier bearing drop kit, but didn’t install it yet. I don’t think I need it, but when tear in to the front, I’ll add it. It was cheap and I wanted it on hand. no shims and no vibrations.
I like the stops, but haven’t done any off reading. At my gun club, we have a gravel drive with very large and sharp bumps (to control runoff), I’ve hit them kind of hard/fast to test. So either they’re really smooth or I’m not hitting em at all. My stock front with spacers isn’t taking the same bumps as well, so I haven’t pushed it over my test bumps haha.

 

Go directly to 3. Do not pass 2 do not collect $200.

 

Go to option 3. You are not compromising any ride quality on option 3

 

The carrier bearing is super easy and fast. The shim on the other had has to be put on under the leaf pack, which makes me think I should get it and put it in while I'm in there anyway. Anyone have experience with this?