GL5 in transfer case ok?

When I said GL5 wasn’t supposed to be run in our Tacoma transfer cases I assumed everyone was referring to 3rd gens, since this is the 3rd gen forum. Yes the spec for 2nd gen Tacoma transfer cases is GL5. Different transfer case, different fluid spec.

 

What you said, quoted below, was GL5 shouldn't be used in our transfer cases because GL5 supposedly attacks brass components. That is wrong. 1st gen and 2nd gen transfer cases also have the same brass components. The cases VF2BM and VF2CM are mechanically very similar. However, the electronic actuator (and 4WD ECU control logic) is different.

 

The winters here get down to the 30's a few nights a year while the summer temperatures are always in the 1 teens and often in the 120's.

 

Page 1 has complaints of shifting issues with 75W90: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/‘16-newer-transfer-cases.636057/ I think Stocklocker is in Canada.

 

Actually mine seems to be shifting better with the 75-90 in it. Thinking about the limited slip additives, I am not sure I actually put this stuff in my transfer case. I am going to go out and read my service records. At least I keep a record of what the hell I did...2020 about this time of year. Sure as shit I better change this stuff out. As I remember, some of it had additives and some of it didn't? Is that even possible?

 

There is a document floating around the forum somewhere from Toyota, translated from Japanese that specifically states the 75W was for fuel economy. The transfer case is very similar to the VF2BM from the 2nd gen Tacoma; and many other Toyota vehicles switched to the 75W on random model years where nothing changed - such as the 2010 FJ. Don’t read that to mean I think the 75W is bad, but I think it’s far from “necessary/required.”

I don’t necessarily believe that the shifting complaints with

$29 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75W-90 are entirely accurate, either. Shifting can be funky even with the spec’ed fluid, and could at times be operator error. For shifting into 4Hi from 2Hi, you often need to be maneuvering the steering a bit for the ADD to finally slide the collar over. If the splines aren’t lined up, often some differential between the front wheels is needed for it to finally lock in. As such, it might not even be related to the transfer case at all.

For what it’s worth, 80W-90 GL4 conventional manual trans oil shifts the transfer case more smoothly in mine than the Toyota 75W stuff ever did. Occasionally I’d get a nasty clunk at speed with the 75W (but not most of the time).

the main difference between 2nd gen and 3rd gen is the actuators. 2nd gen cases called for 75W-90 GL4/GL5.

 

Maybe I’m missing something here, but isn’t MT-LV for manual transmissions only?

 

^Late to the party huh? We're talking about transfer case fluid.

 

I camp in extremely cold weather. I’ve had the transfer case stuck in 2WD in freezing temperatures with 75/90 synthetic in there. I went back to the Toyota LF (low friction) 75W fluid and no further problems. I almost got stranded in the snow with my truck stuck in 2WD, so no more screwing around trying to save a buck by buying generic 75W90 for this compadre.

Summer campers…….likely not a problem.

 

If you can't get or afford the LT 75W, GL-4 75W85/90 works.

Do not use GL-5, if you did use GL-5 drain and fill with LT 75W or GL-4 75W85/90 sooner rather then later.

GL-5 has friction modifier additives for LSD differentials that eats soft metals, like brass synchro rings, which your transfer case does have to aid in engaging 4wd/HiLo.

Also engage 4wd Lo at the least once a month, or better yet, a couple of times a month, keeps the system more so well lubricated and freed up for use when you need it, which I'm sure is the problem with the post above. Electronic mechanical transfer cases like to freeze up from disuse.

 

How exactly did it not shift? Were you moving around at all and it still wouldn’t shift at all?

 

OK, ordered the Ravenol MTF-3 75W from BlauParts, 15 bucks shipping ouch. Anyways, should I run some plain wrap 80W-90 for a week or so, before putting the Ravenol in, to flush out the transfer case?

 

Correct. I was driving around with the 4WD indicator blinking, and doing all the things, steering, going back and forth, all the stuff. I had to wait for the exhaust to warm up the transfer case, at which point it did shift.

I’ve been back in the same situation multiple times since I went back to the Toyota Low Friction fluid and no problems.

 

Pulling the drain plug and letting it sit overnight would probably be fine.

 

Where are you so I know to never go there?