deusxanime's 2020 Cement OR 6MT mods/upgrades/build

The backlight is weak I’m told (haven’t connected mine) but I do have a pnp led T and pnp dd ss3 option, just not super cheap so not terribly popular.

nobody seems to make led T’s other than me for some reason. Not sure why.

 

I forgot you did those, and now you even have a website! Thanks for making stuff like that for those of us that don't like to cut/splice.

But I'm not sure the backlight is worth putting that much extra money in for. Seems like I'd have to get one or two of the T harnesses and then the extensions too, and it would be probably $100 at least, or more, on top of the SS3 fogs. I think I'll wait and see if they offer something before winter, or just get them without the backlight if winter gets close and there isn't an option for it by then. Or I suppose I have the option to get the backlight versions and just not connect that part for the time being and wait and see. For a bit extra I thought it might be neat, but don't want to invest too heavily into it.

I'll have to keep your harnesses in mind though if I ever get the OEM lift with the Pro grill, as I'd probably be tempted to add the raptor lights then and your harness looks like a great solution for them!

 

Decided to just pull the trigger during the labor day sale for the non-backlight SSE3 Pro amber fog lights. Also grabbed a set of Elite Series amber fogs for winter driving for my wife's Corolla, a little cheaper than full SSE3s as she probably won't use them as much. Got them installed a week or two ago, but here are the pictures.

To get to the fog lights on the Tacoma, their instructions say to remove/pull back the wheel well liner and I've also seen videos where people said to remove the grill and get to them that way, but I guess I just have small enough arms that I was able to reach through the gap between the head lights and the grill and get to the fogs. If you have good visualization/imagination and dexterity, it is possible, I did it! You just have to do it pretty much completely by feel because once your arm is in there, you can't see anything of course.






Here's with one of each, OEM and SSE3, to compare. (Though this is daytime so not the best.)




And with both SSE3s.




How it looks installed with lights off.




And for good measure, the Corolla.




Oh and also got my woolwax undercoating refreshed before the snow flies! The place I had bought the lifetime touch-up service from went out of business, so I had to find a new place sadly and pay again...

 

I came across your thread searching sumo springs -47, how are these working for you?

 

I used to (sold it earlier this summer) have an Apex Nano 208BHS travel trailer (~4000lbs dry) and when I had that hooked up without the weight-distributing hitch the rear sagged horribly and the front was way up. It towed fine with the WDH on there, but I didn't like to drive it without, which was a pain if it was just a short trip to hook/unhook the whole system every time. After putting on the sumo springs I was able to hitch up the TT normally (no WDH) and the rear would only drop a bit until it hit them and then it would stay there. It was very drivable like that and I would use it for short trips to the dealer to get winterized/de-winterized and any other work I needed done, as well as to the place I did winter storage and back which was about 20 miles away. So in my experience it worked great!

 

I have a smart cap shell on mine and have been looking for something to help support the load especially when loaded up for camping. I tried the blue -40 version and the shell makes the frame sit just slightly on them. It made a big difference with body roll but im not sure it supports the weight as well as I need. I was looking at the black -47 version like you have and since you have a shell, on full time im assuming? I was wondering how it rides for you without the trailer or a minimal load

 

Yes I have the leer topper and it is on full time. With just that and no trailer the frame just barely sits above the sumo spring, not quite touching. (I think I have some pictures of how much of a gap in my post about putting them on?) Ride has been fine for me though, I haven't noticed it really. I was afraid it would hit them too much and "bottom out" quickly and be jarring, but honestly I don't think it has affected my ride feel in anyway noticeable to me at least.

I don't remember if I mentioned it previously, but I had tried air bags before on my 2019 and they were a pain to remember to keep inflated and within less than a year wouldn't even stay inflated. Switching to sumo springs instead when I got the 2020 has been awesome. All the benefits when towing a heavy load and zero maintenance.

edit: Looking back, I forgot I had put on the sumo springs before the topper. So of course the post with pictures of the sumo spring install didn't really answer that question for you. I did find a post though, just after the topper install one, where I took a picture of the sumo/frame gap after putting on the topper.

 

@daveeasa I was discussing with someone about remote starters for the MTs and I remembered the ones from N2 were not 100% plug and play (unlike the ATs). I think they still made you splice in to the Clutch Start Cancel wire, if I remember correctly, to install it. Did you ever or have you ever looked into what it would take to create a T harness or something so that you wouldn't have to splice in to that factory wiring on the CSC button? Always seemed odd to me and irked me a bit, that that was the one thing they left to splice in to when all the rest of their stuff was PnP.

Anyway, this is more just academic than anything as I'm not really in need of one, since I WFH all the time now and don't really need to remote start my truck anymore in the middle of winter, with it in the garage all the time. But I remembered you saying you built a bunch of custom harnesses for stuff like that, so thought it would be interesting to run it by you.

 

I think I did look for the CSC connectors and did not find them. @Puppypunter could fact check me on that.

for my custom CSC harness in my ‘05 I got a pigtail and spliced to more common unsealed connectors.

many of these ones have only female connectors as the males are the board. Which is a real bummer.

 

That rings a bell. I don't remember the connector, but I remember looking for it

 

Ah that might make sense then why N2 doesn't offer a PnP for that wire, if they are unable to source the harnesses needed either to create the T. Good info, thanks!

 

With that said, given I built my own CSC harness in my ‘05, it is possible to T at the clutch switch itself, where the pedal triggers at full press to the floor. That’s a standard 090IIU 2 position connector, at least on the ‘05. So the N2, if it needs to bridge that connection, could be done with a T harness in that spot. I’d probably want to review the installation documentation before making any concrete suggestions. I’m also not sure if that part changes from 2nd Gen to 3rd gen as I haven’t inspected my ‘16 yet for that piece.

 

So I found the product page and they say there are actually two wires you have to futz with - the TPMS and CSC. They say you have to cut(?) the TPMS and splice/tap in to the CSC. (Sounds like the TPMS thing is required for the AT version of the remote start too though.) Didn't find a paper manual/PDF for it, I think they have those behind a login, but they have an install video if you are interested.