TORSPD: NEVR

Still waiting on that shipment of 3M panel bond from you.

 

you don’t need to go that drastic, that stuff is only for things that you never ever want to take apart ever never ever again …

just use urethane sealant instead of of the silly stuff

 

BRZ update. Only had a couple of hours to mess with it today. In that time, I situated the radiator, and then figured out the upper and lower radiator hoses situation. Got a lot going on due to the different sizes between the inlet and outlet on the water pump, versus those of the Subi radiator.

Due to the vast selection of hoses and couplings by https://hpsperformanceproducts.com/, we will have everything to complete that soon.

The headers are bolted down as well. Starting to look like a completed car.

 

Cobbled these radiator hoses together, for the BRZ LS3 swap.



The angle of the camera makes the lower radiator hose look much closer than it is to the crank pulley.

The thermostat housing needs some tinkering. I'll get that sorted tomorrow. It is just a hair under sized. Getting very close to start-up.

 

Lead the way.

 

I saw a LS swapped FT86 at a car meet the other day. I'll have to get a ride along next time I see it and send you some pictures and videos.

 

It should be very impressive, power to weight.

 

In other unrelated mods-related things - what is a good method to cut braided stainless lines? Seems like if anyone knows the best way, you would.

 

If you didn't buy the cutters, a cut-off disk on a grinder.

The slower method is a set of side cutters.

 

Here are a little bit better pictures of the radiator hoses. They are now finished up, and the oil relocation adapter lines are made and attached.

I also had to weld this material around the thermostat housing, to make it the proper diameter.

 

No picture, but dropped the steering rack and used the die grinder to remove some of a rib, so that the oil pan to steering rack would have better clearance. That is about an 1/8" now. The work begins again today.

 

Interior - check.

 

Here are a few more progression pictures of the SIKKY LS3 BRZ swap. We ran into a few snags, but forged through to start-up. Nothing we can't now fix anyway.

Assembling the A/C lines, I encountered a problem with one of the fittings. The threads look like they are hollow, or mis-cut. They fold over with tension. Reached out to SIKKY, and the shipped out a new fitting pronto. Good on them. That will be fixed soon.





With a few back and forth trips to the parts store, we nailed down the proper length belt. 6PK1420 560K6.





You can also see some of the weld on the t-stat. Where I made the circumference larger.

A/C lines routed and protected from abrasions.

 

Intake and injectors on. Wasn't sure what to do with the steam vent on the right side of the TB, in the photo. Did a little research, and the yellow arrows show where it should go. I am naive with the coolant flow intricacies on an LS.







This was the 2nd adapter fitting that we tried for the TOB. It seemed to fit properly. Some odd minutes after bleeding the clutch system, I noticed a puddle under the car. Sure enough, it was coming from that feed fitting. Not sure what the deal is, but I have to drop the transmission again to find out.



Contacted Holley, and they have one, but it only has one o-ring. We have that in hand now, to compare.



Otherwise, it idles great, and needs an exhaust. Damn near drivable!

 

Didn't even have to open the Earl's packaging. That is too small a diameter compared to the OEM piece. Onto the next plan. Since for some reason finding the properly matching EPDM o-rings seems to be very difficult, without buying a kit.

Engine and transmission are going to be lowered down on Friday afternoon. Trans is already on the trans jack.

Wiring Specialties, whom made the harness, requested us to mail back their tuned ecm, so that is on the way as well. Knocking problems out 1x1.

 

This was one of the easiest transmission pulls that I have had to do. Even with having to drop the subframe.



You can see the gap here, between the sub-frame and chassis. As well as the 1/2" spacer that I made.



Rear view.




Pulled out the TOB. Cleaned the fittings and leaked fluid. Checked the o-rings on the feed line. Re-assembled and pressurized for a "bench" test. Didn't find any "Aha" problems.

I'll check it tomorrow and see if there were any leaks.

 

The waiting game for fittings to make this TOB leak free, has been agonizingly slow. Just the way that it goes sometimes. In the meantime, while still waiting for another fitting for the bleeder line, I decided to try melding parts together to make my own. Should they work, then I can call in some refunds.

 

The fitting on the right, is the feed line. It works.

The left fitting, since it was a bleed screw, it has a small hole in the bottom tip. Not shown. That needs to be filled in then it too can be validated.